Hello -
At least in the diesels, the oil filter cartridge housing seems to hold nearly a quart of oil.
I'm assuming the oil is drawn from the pan into the engine then through the filter before dropping back down to the pan ?
The manual does not indicate pre filling the cartridge housing - just drop in the new filter and fill the new oil through the oil filler on the valve cover.
In the Volvo I've gotten into the habit of saturating the new filter with oil before screwing it on.

At the dealer I always filled the filter housing & quickly put the top of the filter back on, but most techs don't take the time to pre-oil the filter. Whenever starting, the oil press would be right there.

Sounds like a good time to mention that on gas and diesel engine on a MB, the oil filter canister lid should be loosened before draining the oil. This allows the oil in the filter/canister to drain into the pan. Just want to make sure that all the do-it-yourselfers know this.... On the M119 just loosen it enough until the lid starts to raise up...

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Both MB Doc and Metricman (Cool Handle) make very valid points. Loosen the canister after dropping the drain plug. After all drained, I use a "diaper" (bunch of Scott towels) to pull the filter onto when pulling out. After filter removal, clean canister area with more towels.

After "all" warm oil drained, replace Plug and crush ring, pour in some oil (1/2 to3/4 qt.) to canister, replace seals (o-ring and crush washers) on bolt and cap, Slide in filter slowly. Put a little oil on the O-ring(s), Replace canister cap, refill rest of oil to crankcase. Clean Oil fill cap and replace.

Startup. Check pressure, let run for 90 seconds to 2 minutes, shut off and check for leaks.

Everything checks OK, celebrate with favorite refreshment in moderation.

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Mike Mullins
71 250 Coupe
92 400E Sedan
90 944/S2 Cabriolet

I might add that when re-tightening the nuts that hold the oil filter lid onto the housing, pleaase use utmost care not to overtighten them. Just tighten them until you meet resistance. If you try to tighten them further, you risk breaking one of the studs off, and then the car becomes undriveable until you have new studs put in. Just a word of advice!

P.S.--this is on diesels


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Rgds,
Aaron Greenberg
MB technician
'67 250SE Cabriolet
'77 450SL
'79 6.9
'79 6.9
'80 300SD
'81 240D
'85 380SE
'89 420SEL
'93 300E 2.8


[This message has been edited by Aaron (edited 09-13-1999).]