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Old 09-13-1999, 03:52 PM
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Posts: 239
There are two washers, one aluminum (?) and other other copper, along with cartridge housing cap o-ring and the filter, in the MB oil filter "kit" for 617.951 engine.
The washers seems to fit perfectly around the rod that's attached to the housing cap and centers through the filter cartridge but I'm not noticing any that they're supposed to replace.
Definitely not for the drain plug or the two nuts for the housing cap.
I went ahead and slipped them onto the centering rod, with the copper one touching the top of the filter...just to put them somewhere.
Any clues ?
I hope I didn't miss something very obvious.

Old 09-13-1999, 04:54 PM
Posts: n/a
On my 617.952, when I used to remove the oil pan bolt to drain the oil, I would replace the copper washer already on the pan bolt with the new copper washer included with the filter. I would just put the silver-colored washer into my "spares" box. Others probably know the exact reasoning for inclusion of both washers with the filter, however, if I recall correctly, it is because some engines that use the filter you mention also use one or the other of the washers - so the manufacturers have included both. Of course, this wouldn't be the first time my memory has failed me.

A couple of other suggestions for you once you've got the oil canister lid off:
1. Use a can of air to blow through the pin hole near the top of the lid on the center tube (point the center tube end into a rag). Since oil is supposed to flow through the tube, it is a good idea (I believe) to blow this clear to avoid damage if the tube were to become clogged.
2. Replace the two small rubber seal rings on the center tube. I've seen them go so long with age that when they were removed, they shattered like ceramic - not what one would typically expect from rubber. They are so inexpensive that I just replace them during each oil change - overkill I realize.

Good luck-

Old 09-13-1999, 07:39 PM
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,937

The copper washer is for the drain plug, the metal one you can put in your "spares" bin. The rubber o-ring is meant to go under the filter housing lid. Take it off and you'll see the old one around the groove just under where it flares out to fit on the housing. Always lubricate the new rubber seal with fresh oil before putting it on the filter housing lid. The metal seal is in there because on the older models, you had to replace the seal on the stud that runs down the center of the housing cap. Hope this helps!

Aaron Greenberg
MB technician
'67 250SE Cabriolet
'77 450SL
'79 6.9
'79 6.9
'80 300SD
'81 240D
'85 380SE
'89 420SEL
'93 300E 2.8
Old 09-13-1999, 09:55 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
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The reason for this is the kit will fit other engines as well. Some have different drain plugs and filters. Use only what is needed and throw the others away. (You wouldn't believe how many I have seen wrong by people who are supposed to be Pros...
J---y L--E and so on.)

1987 16V

Old 09-14-1999, 11:13 AM
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Posts: 239
Thanks for the info, folks -

Terry -
On the two rubber rings on the center tube, do these have to be special MB rubber or can I buy ordinary rubber o rings out of bins at a auto supply shop ?
I could go either way since I'm more curious then trying to save a buck.
Thanks, by the way, on the tip about clearing the holes.

Old 09-14-1999, 02:02 PM
Posts: n/a

I suppose you might do ok acquiring the rubber seal rings from a local/generic auto supply outlet or hardware store, however, my general experience in acquiring seal rings, washers, cotter pins, and the like is that the ones I do not get from M-B usually aren't *exactly* the same size as what is recommended. In a pinch, I'd probably settle for the generic, however, being that these parts are so inexpensive, my usual technique is to simply order a handful whenever I order other parts and just keep them in a plastic bag labeled as to what they are for, what their part number is, and then use them as I go. A process that has worked well for me so far.

Good luck-

Old 09-15-1999, 04:59 PM
Posts: n/a
I would suggest you not try to save a buck or take the easy way out. Not all rubber like materials are compatible with engine oil. Say you go to the hardware store and all they have in stock are natural rubber or EPDM O-rings. Once those are exposed to engine oil they will swell then begin to disintegrate. Now you will have particulates circulating through your crank case. I'm sure you wouldn't want one of those particles working its way into a small orifice somewhere and causing no end of mischief. :0

Go with what you know.

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