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#16
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__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#17
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Have you resolved your problem?
I just replaced both fuel pumps to no avail. I have now replace; fuel pumps, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, repaired vacuum leaks, high pressure injector cleaning (at a shop). I can't imaging this is just the way they run..... Thanks, |
#18
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Sluggishness Persists
I have gone through the ignition system, looked for vacuum leaks, and now suspect that the sluggishness I am experiencing with my '88 260E might be caused by an incorrect air/ fuel mixture setting or faulty EHA Controller.
I hate to play around with the air mixture because if thats not the source of the problem, I might not get it back where it should be and I know from experience that troubleshooting gets exponentially more difficult when you have two things wrong. Fortunately, I have a '92 300E that uses the same EHA as the '88. I plan to swap controllers and see if that fixes the problem. Is there any adjustment required when replacing an EHA or are they more or less plug-and-play? John |
#19
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John,
Did you swap the EHA yet? I would be curious as to its results.
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90 300TE 00 ML320 |
#20
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No, I didn't swap the EHA's yet. I need to get some o-ring seals first. I don't want to create leaks and put both cars out of comission.
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#21
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My 190E 2.6 has the same sluggish problem. It's fine when cold, but after it warms up, there is an unpredicatable sluggish throttle. You give it gas sometimes and the car hardly goes at all! So if anyone solves this problem, please post the solution. Thanks!!
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Mr.BoNeS 92' 190E 2.6 Sportline |
#22
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I'm going to be replacing the water temp sensor (the connector/plug on the rear of the head). Many have said this often causes the hesitation when the sensor is failing.. I'm also wondering about replacing the oxygen sensor (?) seems like a logical thing to replace - I happen to occasionally have a 'hunting idle' problem whenever the car is warm and i start her up.. not to mention the car seemingly only shows this hesitation symptom, only once the car has warmed up...argh!.. i can only imagine the oxygen sensor is $$$, though! :-(
-miles 92 300e
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milesb@mac.com |
#23
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Miles-
If you are going to replace your sensor, you may want to look here: Oxygensenors.com Let us know the results of your changes. Haasman
__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#24
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Temperature Sensor
I ruled out the temperature sensor as the cause of sluggishness in my '88 260e. My Haynes manual gave resistance readings from pin to ground at various temperatures and the sensor checked out fine.
I also took a look at the temp sensor on my '92 300e and the plug was off. The car was running absolutely fine and the sensor had not been plugged in for who knows how long. This leads me to believe that the sensor may not have that big of a role in how the engine runs. Regarding the O2 sensor, I have had a few Volvo's and learned on a Volvo Forum that I could buy a Bosch sensor for a 5.0 liter Mustang for about $40 and splice the leads and save almost $100 over the cost of a Volvo sensor. The sensors are identical except for the connector plug. I checked Fastlane hoping to find if the Volvo and MBZ M103 sensors had a common generic cross reference but no such luck....yet. In the meantime, still driving a sluggish car. -John |
#25
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I have very similar problem with mine ('91)........
Sometimes.. when stopped at traffic lights on the level the car will barely move when I lift my foot off the brake, sometimes it creeps normally before I touch the accelerator Sometimes.. when braking I notice the response it more positive than other times. Sometimes.. the gearchanges are really sweet, sometimes they are quite harsh. Sometimes.. the acceleration is really positive, only having to literally touch the pedal, sometimes it is quite sluggish. All the above relies on the vacuum system so I am lead to believe this is where my problem lies, but where to start. I read on another forum that the main servo pipe (proper name?) that leads from the intake manifold to the brakes servo can become brittle or very soft. Spiders have also been known to settle in these ! I will try to take mine off, blow throgh it and see if that makes any difference. I understand there is a vacuum module on the side of the gearbox, I have not been underneath yet. Do these items fail or perish? Where else should I look? Any ideas Bruce |
#26
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Vacuum Hoses
Hi,
My 300E has been doing this since I bought the car. Cold and hot starts are fine. Intermittent problem. I'm getting 10 mpg in the city! But I won't throw dollars at it and paying a mechanic to trouble shoot it when I (with the help of fellow forum members here) can do most of it. It seems that we should collect the number and exact location of all the vacuum hoses that seem to cause leaks and post them here. At least searchers in the future will have a good reference point. For instance, I did not know about a hose to the brake booster. I'll be looking for it now. For 1990 300E, I know of four hoses right near the air cleaner: 1) Breather hose from valve cover to air cleaner box 2) Vacuum hose from valve cover to manifold. 3) Two hoses connected to the Idle Control Valve. Additional lines and hoses: A hose from the manifold to the brake booster. A small diameter hose from the air cleaner breather hose to the fuel pressure regulator. (Still need some help of jury rigging a new piece coming out of the fuel pressure regulator.) Please add any more to the list. Also, small diameter vacuum lines and their connectors are good ones to replace at this age. Any critical ones to start with. This stuff is cheap and makes such a difference in our car's running performance. chicago124 chicago124 |
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