Subframe bushing Tool
 

Hey guys,

I got a question for you. I'm going to do the subframe bushings on my "86 W124. And I'm looking at the "press" tools. Performance Products lists one that's just over a hundred bucks, yet they list it as a "differential subframe bushing tool". Can someone check this out for me and tell me if this is A: the correct tool, and B: if it's worth getting and is this a fair price.

Thanks!!

Evan

"86 300E
'95 E320

That is NOT the tool for the rear subframe bushings - its the tool for the rear differential bushings.

For the four rear subframe bushings, Baum sells a combined #1038 (?) for $530. OR the two separate dealer style tools for about $560-660. Be advised with the Baum #1038 the thrust arm at the subframe must be removed in order for the tool to fit.

I got mine for $12.00.

joe p,

How does that work on 124 cars??? My rear bushings were VERY tight. I propped the subframe against the the mount with a large socket and some washers. then I pushed up on the subframe with a large bolt and the floor jack - with the weight of car resting on this one bolt, pushing against the mount, after 5-10 seconds it SLOWLY moved out and i took it out the rest of the way wiht my hadn. Using a smiliar technique on the front bushings, it popped out with much less force.

it was a joke.


it does work on 202's tho'.

Joe

joe p,

Thanks very much for the picture of the special tool. It was very thoughtful to help us with clearly identifying the tool, but could you please offer instructions for its use. Are the instructions printed on the tool?:D

Have a great day and thanks for the giggle,

Hi Brian
I am about to pop the front subframe mounts. I am trying to understand exactly how you did your procedure; are you saying you unbolted the subframe from the body, letting it 'hang down' then basically pushed the bushing from underneath, then out the top?

Haven't had a real good look at the location, just looking for preliminary info.

thanks!

oh, wait I I think I got it, you pushed it out the bottom using the socket and washers as leverage from above. by pressing the subframe back up against the body?

There are front & rear mounts. I call the front ones the ones that are nearest to the front bumper of the car. These go in from the top, so you need to push up on the bushing while holding the subframe against the frame floor. I used a threaded rod to keep space between the subframe and the frame floor, and a bolt with washers and nuts on both sides, one side into the mount and another side in the floor jack and jacked away.

When installing the new mounts, be sure to lube them up with silicon spray or the MB dealer sliding fluid - otherwise they will NOT go in all the way. The metal of the new mount should touch the metal of the subframe. From my experience if they are not lubed, they will not be fully seated.

For the rear mounts, which go in from the bottom, I do the opposite, and these are the ones that busted the seals on my 3-1/2 ton floor jack. I spaced the mount away from the subframe with a socket. Then I used a floor jack & a rod to push up the subframe. Mine were in VERY tight and I jacked the car OFF slightly the rear jackstands (dangerous!!) After 5-10 seconds of sitting still, the mounts slowly moved out.

My floor jack had a hole in the center this is why I used the washers and nuts.