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#1
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brake fluid
87 300E
how much brake fluid do I need to buy to flush the system and are there significant differences between brands? |
#2
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I was reading the spec for flushing (2 yearl servicing) a new BMW the other day and they were saying 250ml per wheel. A liter ought to do it.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#3
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It used to be that the MB fluid was the best out there with the highest wet and dry boiling points but there are some good alternative brands out there. You could use MB's or OEM Dot 4+ which will give you factory results. But, I use Valvoline Synpower ABS fluid on my 300E mostly because its cheap and it works well. Their new ABS formula has higher boiling points than even the MB stuff.
My first use of the product was when my brake fluid was looking like used motor oil. It was very black. All I did was suck out the container and refill many times over a period of a couple months. (Used about 3 bottles to do the job) The dirty brake fluid through the process of diffusion (aided by high temp and pressure) will distribute into the clean fluid until equilibrium is reached. Once my mechanic was changing the brake pads, he bled the brakes and it was slightly yellow. Now my brake pedal feel is factory firm and I never pulled a wheel off. |
#4
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If you are driving the car on the street Castrol or the MB brand are fine. If the brakes get severe use like an occasional weekend on the track Pentosin and ATE Blue have boiling points about 50 degrees higher.
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#5
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Lizem,
2 pints should be enough, take the brake reservoir off replace the rubber seals and clean out the reservoir. Then fill up the reservoir and bleed out each wheel till it nice and clear and no bubbles. I use Castrol brake fluid. m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#6
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I alternate every year between ATE Type 200 (amber) and ATE SuperBlue (blue).
Both have the same specs. and the color let's me know when last year's fluid has been completely flushed. :-) neil |
#7
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Hi Lizem,The 124 manual states to drain the master cylinder down to about 10mm then refill.If you use a Mity-vac to bleed it draw 80 cc from each wheel or 10 pedal strokes if you do it the old way.Like Mihngram said 2 pints or 1 liter should be plenty,don't use old brake fluid, buy fresh fluid.Brake fluid is hygroscopic and an unsealed container in a damp shop will absorb moisture in a few months time.Good luck.
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Democracy dies in darkness, you have to kick at the darkness till it bleeds daylight |
#8
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Use a Speedibleed ($99) and you'll never go back to vaccuum-pumps or pedal-pumping again. So much faster, easier, and better for ABS, and ASR cars.
Also, if you pedal-pump, DO NOT depress the brake-pedal all the way to the floor. You will be forcing the master-cylinder pistons into areas it hasn't been to before and will most likely cause a nick or tear in the seal, then it's new master-cylinder time. :-) neil Last edited by ke6dcj; 01-11-2003 at 11:05 AM. |
#9
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Neil
Great idea using ATE amber and blue! I'll make the switch. I have an SL and a sport sedan that I change the fluid at least every six months. I live in Virginia between the James and York Rivers and humidity is such that leather turns green in the summer. My other cars are on one to two year changes. I also use a speedibleed as you recommend. Robby (5t5RA, 9Q5RW) |
#10
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thanks for the info
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