Troubleshooting a 94 E320
 

I just picked up a 1994 E320 and a 1997 Infiniti I30, $6000 for both. They're both really clean cars but of course have certain mechanical problems. They were both driven by an older lady and her daughter and were dealer maintained. I originally was just going to get the Benz but figured that the other was a really good deal knowing exactly what is wrong with it. The Infiniti has a shot tranny so it's on its way to Aamco, $1700 to fix it.Now the E320, she said she came out one day a few weeks ago and it just wouldn't start, so she went out and bought a new C320, and decided to just get rid of this one. Anybody have any advice on how to diagnose the fuel and ignition system? I'm not too familiar with this car. Any advise would greatly be appreciated.

Loooks like you owe one to Siemens for making a faulty Over-Voltage-Relay.

Behind the battery, aluminum relay. Part 000 540 52 45.
Change it to 000 540 67 45 .

...about $60 , can get it right here.

And, of course, if that fixes it...go give her some more $$$$...

I often wonder how many get traded/sold BC of a bad OVP?????

How many miles on the '94 E320? Some advice - have the transmission fluid changed. Trivial for any dealer, costs about $80-$100. Worth the peace of mind. You'll love it once it is your daily driver.

Also, if you have no records, replace the brake fluid and radiator coolant.

All of the maintenance on these cars is done in miles at 7,500 intervals, except for those two items, which are done on time. They are thus usually overlooked and are very critical fluids.

The brake fluid is required to be replaced every two years and the radiator coolant is required to be replaced every three years.

A 1994 E320 is also a wiring harness suspect.

Being that the E320-124 chassis has a diagnostic/memory code system that is easily entered, my first familiarization with the car would be to access these codes.
Go to the archives and check out a DIY tool /procedure and then you will know what you are working with.

These are the last of a Flash Code system and you are in luck as they did away with the easy access after '95. [ after '95 require Scanner ..]

There is also a Built-in LED code access provision under the hood for emission related code retrieval...

Hello and thanks to everybody for advice. I just checked the OVR and found that there is water in it, on top around the fuse area. It is the updated part number, should I go ahead and replace it anyway?

Also tried checking the engine flash code according to the DIY procedure and there is not even a single flash. Can this mean a problem with the ECU?

Any more advice will greatly be appreciated!

<<Also tried checking the engine flash code according to the DIY procedure and there is not even a single flash. Can this mean a problem with the ECU?
>>

If the LED comes On when you hold the push button and no
codes come back [ no single flash], then the codes have recently been cleared.
If no Led when holding, you prob don't have the key on......

This LED is for emmission codes only.... you need to make the tool and go to other sockets for complete code retieval

Actually the key was on. But I'll research about making/using the tool to check the engine rather than emmision codes. Thanks!

I guess my question should state:

" Does the led lamp light when you press the button ???"

That will tell us if the lamp circuit is working. From there i can tell you what to check

joelm777 - I also am an Infiniti/MBZ household (92 Q45 & 92 400e). Check out the link below for Infiniti info. Though it's not quite as active a forum as this one there are lots of good people/advice there.


http://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net/vbulletin225/index.php?

The LED lamp didn't light when I pressed the button. I'm going to borrow an OVR and ECU today to see if that works.

Thanks!

If the lamp did not light when you press the button [ with ig sw ON at run position] , then try pushing button with the eraser end of a pencil. They are hard to press in with your finger. If that does not work, the led is bad or you have a blown fuse to pin 16 in the socket. That is where the 16 pin box gets its 12 volt input.

Thank you all very much, especially Arthur, for your input here. I tried a new OV relay and it worked like a charm. I feel like I just hit the jackpot with this car. Thanks again!

Joel

Listen, Joel....you STOLE that car!! :D Why don't I ever find deals like this?? Was that all that was wrong with it??