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#16
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To fill both differential and manny tranny, I made up a fill hose--about 6' of clear plastic hose (maybe 1/2 id). In one end of it, I stuck a small funnel.
For the diff, I put the funnel by the diesel-fuel fill and run the hose over the top of the tire/wheel and down to the differential fill plug. Pour warm gear lube in the funnel and it runs into the differential. For the manny tranny, I put the funnel in the engine compartment and run the hose down to the tranny fill hole. Pour the Mobil1 ATF into the funnel and it runs into the tranny. I made up this device after generally making a mess trying to fill with the squeeze-the-bottle technique and wasting money on a $10 Pep Boys filling device. |
#17
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Here's my refill approach:
Before beginning the drain/fill process, make a length of hose to use for refilling. I go to any auto parts house and buy a length of heater hose that's about 6-7 ft. long. Buy a funnel that comes with a short piece of plastic hose and the plastic spout on the end of the hose. Remove this small spout. Stick in it one end of your length of heater hose and secure it with a hose clamp. Make sure it's good and snug. That end goes into the refill hole on the diff. Now snake the hose up over the top of the right rear tire. Stick the funnel into the other end of the hose and start pouring in new gear oil. This has worked for me on many different models of vehicles for both manual tranny and diff. refill.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
#18
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csnow, what is the interval for the manual trany oil change?
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#19
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Quote:
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#20
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O-Ring
Quote:
I'm changing the differential oil on my '92 300 TE wagon, What is this O-ring that you mentioned above? Is this a washer or rubber O-ring? And do I need this both for the drain and fill plugs? Aside from 14 mm allen socket, what other tools are needed? Any extensions needed? From what I understand, there is no room to maneuver a 1/2" ratchet attached to a 14mm allen socket. Thanks for any help. R.V. |
#21
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Shouldn't the vent on the differential be either cleaned or replaced? It was nearly impossible to change it on our 190D but doesn't seem too bad on the 300E.
The vent should at least be checked to make sure it isn't plugged. |
#22
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Most people don't clean the vent but, you should...
specially if it has never been done before. Cleaning would be enough. It is located high on the rear of the differential.
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J.H. '86 300E |
#23
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Seriously good advice has been given here to take the filler plug out first.
I didn't take that advice when draining the diff on my previous 87 W124 wagon. Then I chewed up the harder-to-access filler plug. After wailing for an hour or so and tearing out considerable amounts of hair I finally went to the local wreckers yard and found a spare DRAIN plug, drilled a hole in it to accept the plastic tube from the 1 litre bottles of oil, and squeezed the bottle to force about a pint of oil into the axle. Then a very quick swap-the -plugs-over dance, (yes I got very oily) and after a couple of abortive tries at it, managed to get enough oil in there to last me another 40,000 miles. Yeah, undo the FILLER first. Just to be sure. Barry E200 Wagon 115k miles |
#24
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Teflon tape will ensure that the plugs come out easily the next time.
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
#25
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R.V.
The O-ring I was speaking about was at the engine oil pan and trans pans, not the differential.
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
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