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  #1  
Old 01-21-2003, 08:14 AM
yben
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Timing Chain : Engine died

Hello every body,(1991 300, 2.5 Turbo)

I've rebuild my engine 6 months ago, all was going allright till yesterday, while driving at 2000RPM, the engine died.

When taking off the camshaft cover, i discovered that the camshaft was broken (5 parts), a broken timing-chain.

After taking off the camshaft, the poor lifter were completly craked. Impossible to extract them......

Once the head was taked-off, (I was expecting a piston's holes and valves destroy) but nothing the pistons had nothing and valves are OK.


Could be any embeded problem ???
What should I replace : ???

Camshaft, Tensioner, Chain, Upper Guide, lifters, valves-valves guides ???

Why my chain broke on 10.000 Km.

So sad !!!
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2003, 09:15 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Gainesville FL
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Such early failures are usually some form of improper technique used to couple the chain.

It is common on diesels for the piston to valve collision to be so harsh that the piston drives the valve right through the cam without drastically affecting either the piston or valve, sort of like the "kung fu" hand through bricks affair.

You have to replace the damaged pieces which could easily include the head.
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Continental Imports
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  #3  
Old 01-21-2003, 10:47 AM
engatwork's Avatar
busy
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
Posts: 11,775
What kind of master link was used on the chain. Did you have to use a special "press tool" when you put the chain together 6 months ago or did you use "clips"?
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  #4  
Old 01-21-2003, 11:17 AM
yben
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When I rebuild the engine 6 months ago, I didn't replace the chain, "The project was done to resleeve a cracked cylinder" , I saw that the chain was not streched, that's the reason why I kept it.


Otherwise, I'm planning to replace a new one ; whats the better way to connect it ??
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  #5  
Old 01-21-2003, 09:51 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Orlando, FL
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Well Jim, I respectfully disagree with you. Although I do agree that proper crimping (with a tool) is preferable, I see nothing wrong with the clips.

Here is how Chuck Taylor of Falls Church, VA put it:

I also read the posts on this and the deciding factors were

1. that no one ever reported a failure because of the clip

2. the manual does not mention the crimping when installing a replacement chain, only the use of the clip

3. the clip would probably be more effective than my amateur peening.



I did look it up in my MB manuals, and there they are! The clips! As Chuck said, the crimping was never mentioned. I used the clips on my car, and so have other members on this forum. And as I've said in another post, if the C-clips fail, I'll be sure to post it on here, and at the same time I'll also report how I like my new 300HP 10:1 Euro 560!
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  #6  
Old 01-21-2003, 10:11 PM
engatwork's Avatar
busy
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Soperton, Ga. USA
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You want to take a good look at all the chain guides and inspect the chain tensioner while it is torn apart. How many miles (kilometers) are on the original chain? Did the chain actually break/come apart? What caused the cylinder to crack back when you resleeved it? Could whatever caused the cylinder to crack caused unseen damage to the chain?

It sounds like you probably have the engine apart now. Only use the "crimp" type master link. When you purchase a new chain on this side of the pond it comes with the "crimp" style master link. Some members "crimp" the master link using ball peen hammers and some members rent or borrow the crimp tool. To purchase the tool is pretty expensive and there is no reason you should not be able to use the ball peen hammers as long as you take your time. Do a search on this site for "timing chain" and you can read all about it. Do not use the "clip" type links except for "rolling in" a new chain.
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2003, 07:13 AM
engatwork's Avatar
busy
 
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mb - my manual showed the same thing - the clips. I guess it is just my personal preference. I guess I just like the "crimp" better than the clip for this application although the manual shows different.
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2003, 10:08 AM
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Well, I would crimp it if I had the tool, but I don't want to hunt one down since I'm not exactly "in there" with the MB techs in town. Like I said, I'll see if they work, and if not then I'm adding about 100HP
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  #9  
Old 01-22-2003, 11:52 AM
yben
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Sorry for lateness,

Original chain (probably 190.000 Km) It seems that it was never changed.
I have owned the car with the cracked cylinder, now it's not crakced again. all is ok on the group.

My old cylinder was cracked by a fragment of a broken piston which came aginst the sleeve and broke it. (and the engine couldn't turn normaly at Idle... and smoke crazy)

And I didn't see any damage on chain and other pieces, the Head gasket was in a perfect stat.

I've just bought a C-clips master link, and put it easilly.

:-( Should i keep it or replace by the crimp one. ?


You want to take a good look at all the chain guides and inspect the chain tensioner while it is torn apart. How many miles (kilometers) are on the original chain? Did the chain actually break/come apart? What caused the cylinder to crack back when you resleeved it? Could whatever caused the cylinder to crack caused unseen damage to the chain?

thanks.
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