Urgent help needed with fuel distributor!
 

I am stuck. Finally bought a used fuel distributor and tried to install. Everything went physically fine with one minor problem. The car won't start now.
Background:
Problem: Rough idle.
Diagnosis: I took the car to Steve Brotherton's shop late last year. He indicated I had no/poor flow to cylinder #6.
Possible Solution: Fuel distributor.$$$
Plan: Give the car to my kid and live with the rough idle until I get a used fuel distributor.
I have the CD's and did follow the instructions given. Not many!
I suspect a bad used fuel distributor but, how would I know?
Any suggestions?
I am about to put the old one in and sent the car back to Steve with the "new" used distributor for him to install whenever I have time. However, logistics are bad for that option right now.
:eek:

Have you tried "cracking" the nuts and letting the pump run to make sure there is gas in the unit?

Thanks Chuck,
 

Thanks for the suggestion but, I already took the "new" used unit out and a lot of gas come out of it. SO I am sure gas is getting there but, I don't know how much. Right now I am cleaning the original with some carb cleaner in case I have to put it back in.:(
By the way, the inside of throtle body was dirty. Brown in color. The carb cleaner cleared that up pretty good. I would figure the inside of the fuel distributor was the same.:mad:

Hi JH
If you didn't put in the old unit yet, let me know and I'll give you a couple tips what to do with the "new" unit.
Andy

On the 190E 2.3 it had a horrible idle and didn't pull very well (low power) when we first looked at it. Did a bunch of stuff: cap, rotor, plugs, wires etc.

But then a tech friend suggested cracking the fuel distrib lines at the fuel distrib. A bunch of brown nasty came out. I then did it at the injectors. Same.

Then did the "double-dose of Techron" injector cleaner in less than a half tank of fuel. Still bad for a few minutes. Let it get warm, revved it up and down a bit and then a pronounced "thwump" and now runs like a champ.

Not a universal cure all but I thought I'd pass it along.

Haasman

Still think you should crack a couple and verify fuel flow out to the cylinders. What do the plugs look like? Are they wet?

The obvious = are you getting spark?

Thanks guys,
 

I have both units out at this time. I am debating which I should install next.
Andy,
since I have both out, what is the next step with the "new" one?
Chuck,
The car turns but, no start.
Haasman,
I already open all the lines to change the distributor plus, since Steve B. diagnosed as bad fuel distributor I am going with that...
The injectors were replaced last year, before I went to see Steve.
One note: I did find a small white vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold to the driver's side fender connected to a black box with two big plugs and a green line going to it. I cannot remember the name at this time.:(
Would that prevent the engine from starting?:confused:
Update: I think I found something. The black box is the electronic ignition control unit (EZL). The question still persist. Would that vacuum line prevent the engine from starting?:confused:

ttt
 

ttt:(

J.H.

I don't know ...

(Keeping the thread promoted)

2 things first when you spray the inside of the airflow meter
with carb cleaner it sits in the intake so that right there is like choking the engine have to wait until it desolves.second
while cranking the engine crack open very minute 2 or 3 injector lines as your doing this it will tell you if fuel is going out to the injectors.mine did the same thing left it alone the next morning it started right up.hope this helps

Make sure you don't lose the O-ring on the bottom of the fuel distributor.

Today is going to be a LONG day...
 

Josev,
I used the spray AFTER replacing it and did not start. I re-read the CD instructions. It states I should "remove the fuel pump relay and brigde contacts 7 & 8. The fuel must now just stop or start flowing at the intake connection for the injector lines."
I also may try cracking the injectors and see what happens. However, I can not wait until tomorrow...:(
ILUVMILS,
The O ring is still in place.
Well, I am going to the garage and see what happens. I will check back later to update and/or look for more suggestions.:rolleyes:

Hi JH
Once you installed the"new" fuel distributor, jump the fuel pump relay or crank it to build up pressure.Then, while pump is running
(jumped or somebody cranking) ,crack open a line on top of the fuel dist. going to an injector and see if you get fuel coming out.
If NOT,you have to gently adjust the fuel mixture screw clockwise
(3 mm allen screw) to increase fuel amount. The screw is spring loaded,so you have to push down a little and then turn.
If you have nobody cranking for you,just turn the screw half a turn and start it,if it doesn't start give it another half turn and so on.
Once the car runs and is warmed up, you may want to back up the screw a little(so that it doesn't run to rich) , to a point that it starts running rough and then again turning it clockwise ,so it runs smooth. And have you shop recheck the emissions.
Now there is a chance that you Adj. screw is plugged.If thats the case ,the simplest way is to saw it off , just below the plug.Please cover the air intake with a rag ,so no metal gets inside the engine.
Hope this helps.
ANDY

Thanks Andy,
 

When it rains, it pours...
I took out the fuel pump relay to jump it. Well, I noticed one of the pins (#30) broke off the relay.:mad: I will try to soldered but, I need to buy another one and today is Sunday. :mad: :mad:
Going back to the original problem, I jumped the pump. It works fine but, NO start.
I will follow your suggestions and tell you later.:(
Wish me luck!

GOOD LUCK.
Andy

Chuck asked if the plugs were wet - that would be my first check. Are they?

If not I'd wonder if the control plunger in the new-to-you fuel dist. wasn't opening. If it doesn't rise, fuel doesn't flow to the injectors.

J.

As Mike stated, did you check and compare the plunger height on the `new` distibutor versus the old one? If they are off just a bit the air flow meter`s resting height might need to be reset.

Have you tried slightly depressing the air flow meter sensor plate while cranking to see if it starts?

Check the spark plugs. If their wet/soaked. The car will not start.


Tinker

I am back!
 

I am done!:D
The car started and the rough idle is gone. Steve B. was right, as usual!:p
I did what Andy suggested. I tried so many times that my battery went dead.:( I had to jump start the car and, at the same time, try to adjust the fuel distributor outside my garage with a few neighbors and all the kids in the neighborhood around the house(pictured that!):p
My son was on one vehicle increasing rpm's, my wife in the MB trying to start the car and me messing with the adjusting screw. Until finally, it started with a big cloud of dark smoke. It was so much that my wife came out of the car thinking the car was on fire.:D I guess it was all the carburator cleaner and raw gas from the intake. Once it started, I just adjusted the lambda as per Steve's article around 45-47% duty cycle(which was the best setup for my car). It was way off but, it has been working fine so far.
A few observations I found along the way.
1. Cylinder #4 has an air leak (found it, with carb spray). I will change in the near future.
2. I need a new fuel pump relay, I glued the pin to the base temporarily since it is still making contact. The inside of the relay looks corroted at the pin sides.
3. I may need a new battery, since mine is weak now.
4. I did saw off the top of the adjusting screw.About 1/2 cm.
5. My economy gauge leaning about 1/4 to the right at idle before. Now, it is stuck to the left.
Note: I just read this so the plunger heigh was about the same as the old one. I did not check the spark plugs before.
I hope this help somebody else in my same situation.
Thanks to everybody that suggested solutions!

Where can I find Steve's lambda article and can someone please explain the "cracking" of the distributor nuts and injectors...what it does and how do to it? Thanks!

DIY section at this site has Steve Brotherton's elect. engine control article. Here's a direct pointer:

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/EngineControls

"cracking" means...
 

to loosen the nuts/bolts just enough to get a "control" leak. It is used to confirm if you have flow coming from the fuel distributor (in this case). Be very careful with gas in the engine compartment!:eek: