eBay Sportline bars and bushings with Bilstein HD struts on C124
 

I've read the archives - and am still a little confused. I haven't seen this exact combination addressed in any of the previous threads. Any help and clarification will be much appreciated, (before I spend my money).

There is an eBay "special" for about $600 that includes the Sportline front and rear sway bars, Sportline bushings, and front and rear Bilstein HD struts.

Springs are not part of the deal, (original stock springs are still used), so the body is not lowered. (Not important for me.) The car in question is a M103 300CE.

Does this combination work well together and is it an easy, simple, inexpensive way to obtain better handling without going with the full Sportline conversion? Will handling really be that much better than the stock setup with only a "half-way" Sportline suspension?

I think this is a great question. Many of us with 124 series cars have pondered similar questions, and have often installed these very upgrades.

First off, yes, in my opinion upgrading to front and rear Sportline sway bars and Bilstein shocks will make a difference in the car's handling and driving pleasure. I would always do this to any 124 car that I buy.

The sway bars will contribute to a flatter corning attitude that is less roll. A very satisfying feeling that I thoroughly enjoy in cars.

The Bilstein shock upgrade will make the car feel more sure-footed and often times associated with a smoother ride. When driven on a rutted or uneven rough road, the difference is even more apparent, in that the suspension seems to absorb the irregularities better. Small undulations are well absorbed …. But … large bumps etc do seem to transmit motion to the car more. This is a trade off but not a big one. Firmer control if you will.

Now to the springs. First off it is the springs maintain the height of the car in relation to the wheels and the ground. Springs keep the body up, if you will, but they also additionally to the resistance of the suspension to motion (compression), as do the shocks. Very firm springs will make your car's ride seem harsh. Every bump, expansion strip, pebble etc will be felt. Many do not like this. But …. The Sportline springs although firmer are not a lot more firmer. Think of it in increments. Remember these are factory optional springs. One final item, they lower the car about a ½ inch. This translates into a lower center of gravity that makes the car feel sportier and handle better.

To help you decide …the installation of the shocks and sway bars-

Shocks: both the front and rear shocks can be done without removing the springs. The front springs should be restrained (compressed) because of the strut type suspension. The rears are relatively easy.

Sway bars: The front can be done in your driveway. Easy. Be sure to get the appropriate rubber bushings (4). The rear is complicated because in order to remove the old rear bar you must lower the rear suspension/differential sub frame enough to wiggle the bar out and get the new one in. Just changing the front and rear sway bar rubber bushings improves the handling on cars with 70k miles or so.

Springs: Since automotive coil springs are almost always under compression (at least some) when installed, they hold a lot of kinetic energy. There are horrible stories about people being maimed and killed from messing around with springs. Whether front or rear, the springs should be compressed in order to remove them. You *can* remove them other ways, but it is a death wish.

You can also replace the spring collars with thinner ones. This effectively lowers your car without replacing the springs. You will still need a spring compressor, but you don't have to remove the springs.

In conclusion, you would be happy with just the shocks and bars. They are a noticeable improvment. Doing the springs is another additional upgrade which further improves the cars handling.

Hope all of this helps,

Haasman

After rereading this it seems like I over-answered your questions, sorry it is late.

The combination is correct. The HD Bilsteins go with the stock springs and ride height, but if you go to the shorter sportline or aftermarket springs, you must use Bilstein Sports which are made for the shorter spring height.

The price sounds high to me, since you can get the sway bars at your MB dealer and are not very expensive. The part numbers were in an article in the Star magazine about five years ago. A good counterman at the MB dealer can look up the numbers if he wants to.

I have the sportline sway bars with stock sway bars and like them very much.

If you go to shorter springs, shorter spacers or ANYTHING that alters the ride height, you must find a savvy front end alignment tech to do a proper four wheel alignment.

Good luck,

Thank you both, very much! You have clarified things quite a bit. I think I'll shop around to make sure the prices are "okay". At this time, will just be doing the bars, bushings, and shocks. That should help me take the Angeles Crest Highway a little bet better.:D

volosong

i saw the same thing on e-bay and got the sportline bug again.

i contacted parts shop and caliber motors [m.b.parts wholesaler].

just like larry said the e-bay price is high.

caliber motors can get the v124 lwb or 124 convertible front bar for about $130.00. it is supposed to be thicker than sportline or 500e bar.

btw this bar does NOT have to come from a euro dealer only.

i have bilstein h.d.'s and like them very much.
sometime [soon] i'll have to get these upgraded bars.

peter

You should not change ONLY the front bar, you need to change them both at the same time or they will badly imbalance the handling of the car.

Replacing the front bar is very simple and straight forward. Replacing the rear bar is much more of a challenge. You will need a good floor jack or two. You will remove the rear suspension mounts and lower the entire rear suspension enough to snake the old bar out and the new one in. Be very careful not to lower the suspension too much, or you will damage your brake lines.

I bought my Sportline bars at a Texas MB dealer. The sportline car was available in the US. Even so, a US dealer can get any part for a Euro car. I have driven a Euro car a half million miles and the dealer always came through with parts, even if they were Euro specific.

Good luck,

larry

if you own a euro car/have proof of ownership, i agree the u.s.dealers can and will help.

if you just call a dealer and ask for a "euro" part they will say no.

either they're restricted or they just don't want to bother. probably restricted.

this has been my experience. has anyone without a "euro spec" car been able to get what they want from a u.s.dealer?

peter

I've never had to provide proof of ownership for any Euro part. My local dealer used to have the best dealer MB parts man that ever lived. He would look up anything for me and place an order, no problem.

His name was John Vinson and he had the good old fashioned customer service attitude. He has sense retired and I have sadly learned that he now has some health issues.

They can sell you anything they want. The problem is that most of them are not interested in spending a little extra time to look up a part number so they can provide customer satisfaction.

I think your solution is to somehow come up with part numbers on your own where you can. Give them the number and tell them to order it. I expect that the guys on FastLane could get these parts for you, but I'm not sure.

Good luck,

u.s.dealers providing euro parts??
 

wow larry, it sounds like you had it made there.

everytime i ask [i don't anymore], i'm told it's a euro only part we can't get it. or else we have to contact m.b.usa give them your vin number and have them special order you the part.

which is it really??
anybody beside larry have a REAL PARTS PERSON??

i've dealt with several dealers in this country, i can't get any to work with me in this fashion.
even when i have the part numbers, unless my vehicle came with that part i can't get it, is another familiar line.

i'm going in friday, i'll poke around some more.

peter

Been five years on now with the Sportline bars and Bilstein HD shocks. Still in "love". But, kinda wish I went with the limo bars for an even stiffer ride.

p.s. Been gone for a long time and had to re-register. Was able to do so under my old screen name.

HD's work quite well with a lowering spring, in fact it's a common combo on lowered Porsches.

I run the HD's with H&R Sport lowring springs ( 1.5" drop ) Sportline sways front and rear with 18 x 8 ET35 rims and 225/40-18 tires.

Handles better then when I bought my 300CE new in 1988 and is more then adequate getting 300lbft torque to the ground and around corners !

What about Sports with stock springs?
 

I have a chance to get a nearly-new set for cheap, of course I was going to buy HDs, but I would like to make this work, if it's possible

This is a very old thread and I learned a LOT about making a 124 car handle and ride well since my posts some six years ago.

I have sinced ditched my Sportline bars, put the stock sway bar back on the front and a 500E bar in the back with stock springs and Bilstein HD's all around. For me this is the OPTIMUM. Try it, you'll like it! It gives me a nice ride but does the best of any combinations I tried in dialing out the understeer.

Stiffening the rear bar removes understeer while stiffening the front bar adds understeer.

Thanks Larry. I saw your more-recent posting about what you have learned in another thread. Does it make the car any less predictable, or more prone to unexpected tail-out?

As far as the Sport shocks on standard springs - I need new shocks, so I'm looking. These are lightly used, but I'm concerned about the shorter valving on stock springs. Is it acceptable?

Don't get me wrong, the 500E rear and stock front bars don't make a snap oversteer. They simply dial out enough of the understeer to make the car much more predictable. It will go where you steer it, at least relative to a stock bar'ed car. For me it's just an extremely pleasant handling car and gives up no ride quality with the improvement.

Some folks don't like this kind of set up because it doesn't address body lean. In my book, body lean means NOTHING! The car going where you steer it means EVERYTHING! Even with stock suspension a 124 does not have a bunch of body lean. It's not like driving a Chevy Caprice or a pick up or something. It's not as flat as a Porsche either, but for a luxury sedan it makes a really pleasant car to drive by the simple stiffening of the rear bar.


I personally would not use the shorter shocks on stock springs. The HD's work great with stock springs.