PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum - Rear Outer Bushing Joint Replacement

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Tinker,
That last post really cleared things up. I'll give this a try and see what happens. Thanks for the great tips and procedures.
Steif

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tinker (Post 341763)

Steif,

I did not remove the lower control arm, but lowered it with a floor jack after supporting the car on stands. I removed/loosened one or two of the five links to the hub so I could get it in a better position. As Brian stated, I think I also loosen the brake shield to get a better position.

I used this puller: http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&qt=1&tool=all&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=229&PartNo=CJ2002&Price=+n%2Fa+ &ListPrice=+n%2Fa+&FORMNAME=1&Desc=Puller+Set%2C+Bar+Gear%2C+Type&SUB_Cat_ID=1466555&SUB_Cat_NAME=In terchangeable+Puller+Sets&Cat_ID=1465957&Cat_NAME=Pullers&group_id=1233&group_NAME=Gear+Puller+Set&s tore=IntBrowse&dir=catalog

I have not seen the Baum tool others are referencing. It might even be even easier. It took me a few times to get it lined up just right. To install the new bushing, I used a large socket that is the same outer diameter as the bushing. It will press in fairly easily. I used a big C clamp. I wouldn`t use the center of the new bushing to press it in as you risk damaging the boots that seal the bushing.

Maybe someone on this forum (J.?) would let you borrow their tool???

Tinker

Will this work for the W124 wagon as well ?

TIA,
:-) neil

Quote:

Originally Posted by J.HIDALGO (Post 341444)

all I had to removed was the tire. It took me a while to figured it out the first one but, on the other side, the old one came out and installed the new one in less than 20 minutes (with the baum tool). If you can do it with the puller, more power to you.
Good luck!
:cool:

Can you tell us more ?

I'm in JAX, FL, too.

:-) neil

I'm looking for the Snap-On puller, because the link doesn't work.

:-) neil

Attached are pics of the tool.

Is this the puller ?

Snap-On CJ2002

If so, very pricey $400+.

:-( neil

Hi Neil,

This is an oldie. I used the second tool (CJ2002) and yes anything Snap On is generally pricey. I had it on hand as I used it when rebuilding a Porsche trans. I believe I paid quite a bit less for it a while back.

As you probably read, you COULD do it without the tool, but its a bit more work. I would suggest renting the correct tool from the tool rental program and replacing both sides. Probably save you several hours of frustration, some bruised knuckles and your sanity.

Tinker

Quote:

Originally Posted by J.HIDALGO (Post 341444)

Can you tell me more ?

I'd hate to remove things unecessarily. . .

:-) neil

I replaced this bushing on my 1995 E320 wagon about 2 weeks ago. These are the highlights of my experience.
I removed the two bolts that hold the lower end of the shock and the sway bar end link and was able to lower the control arm out of the way.
I bent the dust shield enough to get good access to the bushing.
The next 4 or 5 hours were spent trying various options for removing the bushing. I ultimately made a puller from a short length (~1.5") of 1.5" i.d. steel pipe that actually measured about 1.6" on the i.d. I had to do some creative grinding to get it to mate with the cast surface of the knuckle. It is important for this part to sit relatively square with respect to the bushing so that the pulling forces are even. I positioned this part on the knuckle toward the rear of the car and used a socket on the other side to contact the outer part of the bushing. I used a 1/2" diameter bolt through a very thick washer placed on the end of the 1.5" tubing.

This removed the bushing without incident and I installed the new bushing from the inside of the knuckle and bulled it toward the rear the same as when removing the old bushing but had to fabricate a special thick washer to contact the outer part of the new bushing with relief for the inner part as the socket was too long to fit. One could probably use the tubing on the inside of the knuckle and press the new part in from the outside and have room for the socket. I didn't want to deal with getting the tubing to sit squarely on the inside surface that was difficult to see.

BTW this was done in my home garage using jack stands and a floor jack.