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  #1  
Old 03-08-2003, 12:49 PM
LarryBible
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Water Pump Leaking?

I was smelling anti freeze inside the car and fully expected that the heater core was leaking. I assume the heater core is as difficult to replace as the evaporator so I put in some bars leaks. It seemed to cure the heater core problem right away. But, now I have an anti freeze leak.

The leak is coming off the passenger side pan rail along underneath the a/c compressor and along to a point a few bolts behind the compressor.

I have looked over everything in the area of the water pump very, very well, no hoses leaking, thermostat cover tight, heater line connection dry. Everything looks good.

I cannot see the water pump weep hole from underneath. I managed to get my fingers wrapped underneath the snout of the water pump, but could not feel a weep hole. The shaft looks dry.

Any ideas? The bars leaks might have attacked the seal, but I can't find the weep hole.

If it IS the water pump, I figure this is a nice swap off compared to replacing the heater core. I have had great success with Bars Leaks in the past, but the product seems to have changed, it no longer has the pellets inside.

Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated.

Oh yeah, my Haynes manual says to move the PS pump and a/c compressor out of the way, will this really be necessary.

Thanks greatly for your replies if you have messed with these water pumps or a similar leak before.

Have a great day,
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  #2  
Old 03-08-2003, 01:08 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,508
Larry,

I don't think you need to move either out of the way.

I searched some threads for you, and it seems that buying a certain snap-on tool would be worth it.

Here is the best thread I found for replacing a water pump:

300E Waterpump
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #3  
Old 03-08-2003, 08:03 PM
LarryBible
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Paul,

Thanks for the reply. I saw that thread, and I have a flexsocket, so that's no problem.

I'm not really worried about the act of replacing it. I am trying to determine if that is indeed my leak before spending well over $100 that is really hard to come by right now.

Anyone have any thoughts about whether or not this is my leak?

Have a great day,
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  #4  
Old 03-08-2003, 09:03 PM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
Posts: 2,791
Try pressurizing the system

Larry, maybe pressurizing the system will force the leak to present itself. We know 15-20 psi is safe for the system, but if you dare to perhaps overpressure the system (30psi?), the leak would be more obvious.
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  #5  
Old 03-08-2003, 10:44 PM
JetForeman
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which car is leaking Larry?
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2003, 04:18 AM
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Yeah Larry, which car is leaking. Are we suppososed to look into our crystal balls?
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  #7  
Old 03-09-2003, 03:34 PM
LarryBible
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Sorry about that! It drives me crazy when folks don't give the make and model. You caught me!

This is on the 300E. Pressure or whatever won't help much because wherever the leak actually is located is obstructed by all the other accessories in that area.

I thought maybe someone else has dealt with this before. I will be surprised if it is not the water pump, but I sure hate to buy one and change it as an experiment.

Any of your own experiences would be helpful.

Thanks,
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  #8  
Old 03-09-2003, 04:00 PM
JetForeman
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The heater line was the first thing that came to mind but you said you checked it. Other than using a mirror and a strong light I can only think of one other thing, and that is to go back to the heater core connections and look there. An anti-freeze smell in the cabin can almost always be traced to the heater core area. Please let us know what you end up finding!!

Dale
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  #9  
Old 03-09-2003, 08:52 PM
LarryBible
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Thanks for all the replies, but perhaps I was not clear with the question.

The long and the short of it is that now the heater core is no longer a problem. This is on my '88 300E.

The problem is coolant dripping from along the pan rail on the passenger side directly under the a/c compressor and a few bolts back.

I cannot see the weep hole on the pump or anything else below. This area cannot be seen because the a/c compressor and other accessories obstruct it.

Has anyone ever experienced this before? I thought maybe someone, especially the pro techs may have an experience base surrounding this. I hate to buy a pump that I don't need, so I suppose I'll start tearing things out of the way and look for the leak before buying a pump.

Thanks,
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  #10  
Old 03-09-2003, 09:06 PM
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Posts: 8,508
Larry, I know that I have an M104 engine, but when I had a coolant leak that I couldn't detect, I took it to my mechanic and we put it on the lift. He took off the plastic pan, and the weep hole was in perfect view. It was coated with the residue of coolant, so I bit the bullet and had him replace it.

I have replaced the water pumps myself in virtually all of the cars I have owned (except the Ford Explorer), so I had become pretty good at it...
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2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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  #11  
Old 03-09-2003, 09:55 PM
Mike Murrell's Avatar
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Larry:

Unless the leak is glaring, you may not find it until you do as Kestas suggested and pressurize the system.

Auto Zone(and other mass marketers) rent a pressure tester for about $75.00. They let me keep it 3 days. You pay $75.00 when you rent it and they refund all $75.00 when you return it.

You perform this test on a cold engine. I had a bear of a leak awhile back on a 103 motor and would have never figured it out had I not rented this gadget.

You pull the radiator/expansion tank cap, connect an adapter if needed, then hook up the pressure tester. You pump it up by hand just like you would an old style tire pump.
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2003, 10:06 PM
I told you so!
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Motor City, MI
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One useful aspect of the pressure test is that you can remove the accessories that obstruct the view, and the engine doesn't have to be run to develop the needed pressure for a leak to occur.
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  #13  
Old 03-10-2003, 05:36 AM
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Location: Puget Sound, Washington St.
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Thumbs up drippy drippy

Larry,
Having coolant drip right off the oil pan behind the a/c comp. is
standard proceedure for a 103 waterpump. The weez hole is impossible to see without a mirror and coolant rolls right down the top of the a/c bracket and then down the block and oil pan.
the coolant usually drips off the low oil level switch as well.
Later 104 motors got a nifty collection cup under the weez hole to collect any dripping coolant. This is visible from the top.
the pumps usually leak cold and seal up shortly after warming up, so pressure test it cold.
Don't forget to check the heater pipe o-ring at the rear of the cylinder head where the hose connects to the head.
That one will send coolant down the drivers side of the block as well.

Happy times indeed!
DR.D
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2003, 08:08 AM
LarryBible
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Dr. D,

Thanks a mil! This is just the experience that I was looking for. I now feel that changing the pump would not merely be a blind stab.

Thanks to everyone for your replies.

Have a great day,
Larry
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  #15  
Old 06-25-2003, 12:13 PM
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Posts: 459
Larry,

What ever happened with this waterpump? Where did you see it leaking from once it was removed? Also, did you really need the snap-on tool for the job? I need to replace the pump on my '90 300CE (w104) this weekend, and wonder whether I can get away with a wobble or flex extention from Sears?

Thanks,

GregS
'84 300D
'90 300CE
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