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  #1  
Old 03-08-2003, 09:00 PM
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A few W126 repair questions

I'm replacing a few things on my car and I just have a few questions to make sure I am doing things correctly.

1) Replaced the shocks just fine but the MB manual says something about checking aligningment for the shocks...don't know what there is to align, so I wanted to ask about that or if I need to worry about it.

2) I am replacing the steering damper. I got the original one off and it is a Stabilus made in Germany, the one I got from FastLane is a Boge made in Mexico. The new Boge does look just a little bit "dinkier"...the fluid resevoir is smaller and the necks at the top and bottom look a little thinner. Lower quality? Should I just use it or go after a Stabilus?

3) I'm getting ready to replace the subframe mounts. Do I need to buy new bolts or can I use the same ones? Same for the diff mount...new bolts? Also, do I need to replace the bushings on the semi trailing arms, too?

4) One last one! I am going to replace the fluid and filter on the PS pump. The manual just says to extract the fluid with a syringe type device and then feed the new fluid in. Doesn't that just leave a bunch of old fluid in the rest of the system? Can you not get all of it out? Wondering on how to go about this...

Thanks in advance for any help/tips!
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  #2  
Old 03-09-2003, 02:24 AM
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1) I read that job as more of a diagnostic check, especially if the complant is a harsh or rumbling suspension, or if you eat up shocks quickly. I wouldn't worry about that test.

2) BOGE is also an OEM supplier, overall appearance may be slightly different than what was on the car, but it will work just fine. The damper on the 4.5 was the original with the Star, replaced with a BOGE unit. No problems.

3) The front submounts come with new bolts and nuts. They are shown in the picture with the mounts in the FastLane Online catalogue.

4) After siphoning off all of the fluid in the resevoir, change the filter and disconnect the return line. Fill the resevoir and then with the engine running, keep replacing with new fluid as the old fliud pumps into a container. Once the fluid is running clear and clean shut off the engine, replace the return line and top off the resevoir. Or for less mess, refill the resevoir, run engine, shut off engine and siphon off fluid. Then repeat, repeat, repeat...until the fluid is clean and clear. May take a while and several quarts.
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'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2003, 02:34 AM
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ps

4. Actually there is a drain plug on the steering unit it is accessed from the bottom, needs a 12mm socket. when it is off turn the steering wheel to either side slowly it will suddenly start draining leave the steering alone it will drian nicely takes about 10 mins. When it looks like it has completed, move the steering wheel a couple times from lock to lock, then put the drain plug back. It has a copper crush washer so you can use it more than once but try and replace it if you can. Then replace the filter in the pump unit and refill. During refill turn the wheel from lock to lock till the system releases all the air bubbles. Best to do this while the front is jacked up as it is easier to turn the steering wheel, just use the tire. This gives you a complete fluid flush for your PS.
have fun.
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1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2003, 12:07 PM
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Thanks guys for the help! Mike, with the subframe mounts, I couldn't find a pic with it on FastLane (where I ordered them from). Perhaps we are talking about two different things. I am speaking of the submounts just ahead of the rear tire, front position of rear subframe as the description puts it. My mounts come with four smaller bolts, not the one big one that goes through the center of the mount and two lock washers. That is the one I have in question..whether to replace or not. I guess the four small ones go on that plate on the bottom of the mounts that bolts into the body.

As far as the PS pump...either way sounds ok to me...maybe Mike's method had more of an actual "flushing" effect? Also, the manual says in bold, "the pump should not suck air under any circumstances." Is that something I have to watch out for with these methods?

Again, thanks for the help!
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2003, 12:09 PM
Q Q is offline
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I was able to suck and fill about 5 times with 2 quarts of fluid and the fluid that is in there now is nice and clean. Much less effort than draining and filling. I just swapped some fluid every morning before work for a few days. All in all, I had about 10 minutes into the job.
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2003, 01:26 PM
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I was thinking you were talking about the front mounts. The rear mounts do have a picture which shows four new bolts. Take a looksie here , so the center bolt is likely reused on these.

And as the manual say you don't want to suck air through the steering pump.
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'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

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  #7  
Old 03-09-2003, 09:39 PM
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the draining method will remove all the fluid from the vehicle and prevent the suck and flush which is time consuming. Once it drains just do the other stuff you need to do it really is very easy plus you will not introduce air into the system on refill. Have fun. The suck and flush method is effective, it is similar to not draining the torque converter when changing the tranny fluid as long as you do it a little more often it should be fine.
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Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #8  
Old 03-09-2003, 09:46 PM
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Martin:

Question about the 12mm drain bolt.

Is this on the very bottom or in the bottom corner of one of the sides?

Is it a 12mm hex or 12mm allen?

Thanks.
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Last edited by Mike Murrell; 03-09-2003 at 10:20 PM.
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  #9  
Old 03-09-2003, 11:12 PM
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12 mm hex it is located in the middle about 1.5 inches from the bottom. It is the one in the middle at the bottom. Hope this helps.
m
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A few W126 repair questions-ps-drainplug.jpg  
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Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #10  
Old 03-09-2003, 11:22 PM
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Martin - thanks.
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  #11  
Old 03-10-2003, 12:21 AM
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Martin...help me understand this... If you drain the steering box, wouldn't it then have air in it? I'm thinkin' if there's not fluid, then it must be air, right? It seems like with the flush method there is fluid in the system at all times. I'm not being critical at all...just don't get it yet Thanks for helping me out.
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904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."
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  #12  
Old 03-10-2003, 01:47 AM
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mbjtc

no problem, That is why you need to refill the sump and turn the wheel back and forth this get the air out or 99% of it. You will get some air but that will come out very quickly and it gives you a complete flush. If you do not turn the steering wheel you will get a lot of froth in the pump.
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Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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  #13  
Old 03-11-2003, 01:16 AM
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Martin...so as I understand it, the entire procedure is done with the engine off? And then when you start it up you just top it off right?

Do you think that it would be beneficial to do a short flush method after your method to get any residual old fluid out or do you think this would be superfluous?

One more question about something else you might be able to answer....I am getting ready to change AT fluid...is there a "special" MB AT fluid (ala coolant) or is AT fluid from AutoZone the same thing?

Thanks again!
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'86 420SE Euro
904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."
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  #14  
Old 03-11-2003, 02:09 AM
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mbtjc

Yes engine off, draining the ps should get all of the fluid no need to short flush.

on the tranny front I use mobil one synthetic and have been very happy with it. This is up for debate though as I am sure there a few threads out there dicussing the various fluids one should use.

good luck.
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Martin Ingram
Colorado Springs
2005 320 CDI
2006.5 VW Jetta TDI
1991 560SEL (179000 Sold)
1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.)
1972 220D (225000 when sold)
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