I guess I'm not completely sure that it's a '202' series. I got that number from the MB site. It's actually a 96 C220 with about 75k on the clock. It sounds as if the timing chain is going but it seems a bit early for this at 75k. Could there be an issue with a bad chain tensioner? I've had a good history with this vehicle and have changed the oil frequently since new. I've done the big screwdriver to the ear test on all the components in the front of the engine. And all seem fine. All pullys are tight and show no play. It just seems too early for the timing chain. Could the tensioner alone have gone bad? And would it be possible to just replace this part without doing the entire chain? Obviously I'd do the tensioner myself, but would probably take the chain job to a pro. Unless you folks can talk me into doing it myself. I've got the shop equipment and tools to do it. But am just a bit weary about digging around in there... Any ideas ?

What makes you think it's a timing chain tensioner?
What kind of noise?
When does it do it?
How long does the noise last?

C220's are fairly bulletproof and I have not seen any needing a chain or tensioner until they rattle or break a rail around 150k.

If your engine uses a belt shock near the serpentine belt tensioner, that may be your culprit. Those tend to have a weak rubber bushing that fails and they rattle and buzz.

DR.D

"If your engine uses a belt shock near the serpentine belt tensioner, that may be your culprit. Those tend to have a weak rubber bushing that fails and they rattle and buzz."

This happened on my C230 at 75,000 miles.

__________________
Michael

1988 300 SL (5 Speed)
1994 E320 Wagon
1997 C230

My C230 has also had a new belt tensioner, and my Dad's as well. Very common repair at your mileage, or less even.

It can make a banging noise that might be mistaken for a timing chain going south.

Check the belt tensioner before replacing the chain/tensioner. The M111 timing chain is long lived, especially if you have a good oil/filter changing history.

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John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K

http://img31.exs.cx/img31/4050/tophat6.gif

Does the whole shock need to be replaced, or can you stabalize/repair the bushing?

there's really no point in trying to fix it. it's one of those 'component' pieces. the repair is fairly easy with the right tools. lots'a crapola you'll need to remove, but even that's easy. I'd just buy the replacement part and bolt it in...

- mrzoop...

A slick trick
The top rubber on the shock comes unglued from its eyelet.. so, the shock cam move back and forth on the eye.. the trick is to simply take the bolt out and slip an O ring in between the eye and the mount That sandwiches the rubber so it can not move side to side ... the rubber can't move and is still good , it is just unglued from the eye ,but can not get out cuz it is sandwiched .

Done many of them and this trick last for years .
..or, as said , change the whole shock.. much harder and same results.

If you look real close at idle , you will see it moving sideways and rattleing to beat the band .. usually does it in gear at idle ..amd will drive one nutzzz

... just make sure your has the shock, as there was a mid-year change and the newer belt tensioner did away with the shock.

My C220 has 77K miles and I've had to replace both the Water Pump and Belt Tension Damper. Both of these parts made a loud mechanical noise when they went bad. Replaced the pump at about 25K miles and the damper at 60K.

Yeah those water pumps do have problems, tensioner extremely common, luck your to see 75K.

__________________
Juan Ramirez
Prts Mgr.
German Auto Center-SA, TX
jr67001@yahoo.com

My wife's C280 at 13K started to have a ticking noise from the timing chain area. Turned out to be a master link piece that had come loose. Caught it in time. Dealer paid.

Tim