Haha. Ain't that the truth!!!!

I love my battery quick disconnect. Makes working on the car's electrics and other systems a lot easier, plus I don't have to worry about accidentally leaving the trunk or doors open overnight while working and having all those little bulbs draining the battery.

When working on Sway Bars: It is often much easier to jack the entire end of the car up and avoid twisting of the bar. This is especially true on heavy bars such as the 126 cars.

Keep you repair tips and suggestion coming,

Haasman

Standard safety tips if you are going to work under the car:

-Use good quality Jack Stands/Ramps on solid level ground
-Chock the wheels securely and set parking brake.
-Put a big block or tool box under the car in case it falls off the stands (Mike Tangas California Earthquake tip!)
-Use safety glasses while under the car
-Have a second person around at all times who knows how to use -a floor jack
-Have a phone handy for 911
-Think about what you are doing, don’t put your body parts at risk!

(thanks to Deezel for these tips)

Haasman

Good tips, keep them coming!

tuning carbs
 

Use COLOURTUNE, a simple but helpful tool , just watch the color of the igniting fire

http://www.gunson.co.uk/acatalog/Gunson_Catalogue_Exhaust_Gas_Analysers_Mixture_Control_5.html

Keyes : I have found that a new key in an old tumbler extends the life and helps slow down the costly replacement.

Keys come from dealers, about $20, with proof of ownership.

I always get a new key when acquiring another car. I use the new key as the primary key and keep the old one(s) as backups.

Use lock lube. It works well and helps prevent that horrible rough feeling of worn tumblers.

A $20 key is a lot less expensive than a new ignition tumbler.

Haasman

When cleaning glass (home or auto), use vertical strokes for exteriors and horizontal strokes for interiors. This way, if there are streaks, you'll know which side they're on.

Front brake rotor replacement- Holding a rotor while removing the 5mm bolt: I have found inserting a long handled screw driver into the vent slots is just enough hold hold the brake rotor to remove the 5mm bolt.

If the car is jacked up too high, put several pieces of wood under the screwdrive handle.

The opposite also works for tightening this 5mm bolt.

Others use a long breaker bar or other item to span across the wheel bolts but I don't. Afraid of breaking the bolts or at least causing thread damage.

Haasman

mercedes does not recommend graphite for the locks. causes problems with the alarms. they do have this nice little pressurized
container about the size of a lipstick container that squirts grease into the locks. it has a nice little tip that goes into the lock
moving the dust door aside so the grease goes on.

Thank you! The previous post has been corrected.

Haasman

find a good mechanic. use him[or her] to do all the dirty work.

EZ-Out Tricks and Tips

Thanks to psfred

"There are several tricks.

The first is to use a left hand drill bit on a reversing drill. This will sometimes remove the stuck bolt, etc by heat and friction without the EZ out.

Second is to get the correct ones -- there are several kinds, and the tapered ones seem to fail more often.

You must insert the EZout all the way to the shoulder -- just getting the tip in will only ream the hole out.

Give the stuck part a couple good solid wacks with a punch and hammer before attempting to turn -- this will usually "start" them (unstick them some) so that you can turn them more easily.

Never apply breaking force to the extractor. Penetrating oil, impact, heat, but never more force than the extractor or metal will take. No point in breaking it or just reaming the hole larger.

On a bleeder, I'd use a pilot bit (Bullet drill) to make the hole, and remove a good bit of the metal. That way you can always take a fine punch are collapse the remainer to remove it that way if the EZout fails. Leave enough metal for the EZout ot grab though."

The little things ....
 

These are from:fahrgewehr2

Thanks Mike!

*****************************

Hey all,

I work all day and have a 45 mile commute each way. My car needs to be ready to roll each morning, which means larger repairs and maintence tasks are often farmed out to the professionals. But, there are some little things one can do to make the car perform/look a little nicer which do not require a 30 minute shower afterwards. Whether these simple tasks be inside the car or out, they are simple. Here is my list:

1. Clean your antenna mast. I use WD40 on a cloth - gets all the dirt off and allows for smoother operation.

2. Lube your driver side mirror so it can be adjusted easily.

3. Tighten the bolts which anchor the front seats- they loosen over time.

4. Lubricate doors to quite annoying creaking noises when opening and closing.

5. Use needle to clean windshield washer nozzles.

6. Gently clean wiper blades.

7. Purchase a CD player cleaner disk and use it once a month. If you have a Becker replace it immedialtely. Seriously.

8. Replace headlight washer blades before those new euro lights get scratched.

9. Lube sunroof tracks and wind deflector assembly.

10. Change it hot and often! No excuse not to!


Anyone else have any good tips? Perhaps this could be a usefull thread as there are little things which sometimes get neglected.

Mike

But Wait, There's more! from fahrgewehr2
 

To lube the side mirror, simply fold back and spray internal workings with WD40, while moving mirror back and forth to assure all metal pieces are reached.

As for the sunroof, I simply visited my local independent and asked for his can of sunroof lubricant. Apply to tracks and use a spry lubricant to lubricate deflector hinges.