Repair Tips, Short-Cuts - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Fourings · #**106** 07-11-2005, 11:07 AM

A long screwdriver makes an excellent "stethoscope" for pinpointing noises coming from a running engine.

Spraying water from a squirt bottle (not a hose!), or carb cleaner, is useful for tracking down vacuum leaks. Never use anything with silicone in it for this purpose. You will damage your oxygen sensor.

haasman · #**107** 08-07-2005, 07:54 PM

Quote:

A simple trick for diagnosing brake hose restriction..

Jack that wheel and go push the brake pedal down very hard.. once

Now go try and hand turn the wheel... if it is locked or very hard to turn, loosen the bleeder . If it now turns easily, it is a bad hose .. if it still is hard to turn, you have a sticking caliper or dragging emergency brake.

Thanks to Arthur Dalton's response to a thread regarding a hot rear wheel.

Haasman

1980-300SD · #**108** 08-09-2005, 01:55 AM

I'm new to this site, but something I do often is use a digital camera to take pictures of how everything looks before I take anything apart. I also use it during disassembly so I have a visual record of how everything goes back together. Then I either print the photos or browse them right on the camera. It's saved me a couple of times.

haasman · #**109** 08-20-2005, 03:36 AM

Quote:

Sometimes, when we're working on problems around the house, we run into frozen-up hardware, or hardware that will only move if enough force is exerted to damage it. When this happens, it usually stops our progress until we figure out a way around it.

The solution I've found to work best is to soak the piece in vinegar. Vinegar will cut the rust better than any other commonly available product that I have found, and it is safe to use, with simple precautions. I use common white vinegar. It is cheap and plentiful, and it won't introduce as much organic material where it is not needed as many other vinegars.

To put the vinegar where it's needed, I use a spray bottle or an eye-dropper. If you choose to use the spray technique, be sure to get a sprayer that can be adjusted down to a fine stream.

Hold a piece of cardboard, or a rag, or just your hand, behind the piece you're spraying, if you need to.

Give it one or two good squirts, or a couple of squeezes of the eye-dropper. Then walk away. Let the vinegar work for 10 to 15 minutes.

When you return, work the part gently but firmly, back and forth, if it's a hinge or a pulley or some similar piece. If you have a nut on a bolt, perhaps on an old toilet seat, try turning it with the right size six-sided socket or closed-end wrench, or with the right size open-end wrench. This is not the time to use an adjustable wrench or pliers - you need to minimize the chance of slipping and rounding the shoulders on the nut or bolt. If the piece won't budge at all, try treating it one more time. If it will move now, but only haltingly, you might apply some oil to smooth its recovery.

The conventional wisdom in this situation is to apply WD-40 to free up the frozen part. That is not usually the best solution. WD-40 is a very useful product in many situations, but it is not a solvent. It is a penetrating lubricant. That means that it will work its way into the smallest of openings to provide lubrication to dry parts. But it will not dissolve rust. Use the vinegar to do that. Then apply the WD-40, after things have started to move, to ease the movement.

Things should go more smoothly from now on.

Source: http://homerepair.about.com

_______________________

Haasman

Kestas · #**110** 08-20-2005, 08:18 PM

For those with pre-OBD2 cars such as my 95 E320, make a list of the error codes available from your built-in diagnostic module and keep it in your car. Better yet, make the patented Arthur Dalton code reader to read all the codes and keep that in your car with the code list.

Once on a long trip I had a car that broke down, it had the self-diagnostic capability, but I couldn't interpret the codes. I didn't like being in the dark, not knowing what was wrong with my car.

haasman · #**111** 10-23-2005, 02:55 PM

Be sure not to touch the glass portion on head light bulbs. With high output and very hot bulbs the simple oil residue from one's fingers can make the bulb glass crack.

Haasman

Saint · #**112** 10-23-2005, 10:25 PM

Chewed up slipping phillips? And just good phillips practice.

In the past, I have used valve lapping compound to get a better "bite" till I found these little wonders.

Go to McMaster and in the search window...type in "Anti Cam-Out Phillips Insert Bit" These bits have teeth...and work fantastic. Also...do a search for "phillips" and get different types of phillips bits...like power bits, pozidriv, square recess, frearson. Here is the thing...just because it is a #2 does not mean it is the best fit. This may sound like a no brainer...but you want a bit that does not have any wiggle at all, or the one that has the least...try different bits until one fits the best...and this means you need an arsenal. They are cheap...and you will be glad to have them.

Messed up the screw so no bit will grab? You can dremel or cutoff wheel (the very thin .035 wheel) a slot, and use a screwdriver..or you can use the left handed drill bit, as well as that screw remover that sears sells (mcmaster too...i should own stock i have spent so much money with them)...which is really a left handed drill bit with some extra features.

If the screw that is messed up is a hex...see if you can force a Torx bit into
the hex head with some light hammer taps. Some of these torx are perfect, but be warned...you will probably ruin the bit...they are cheap to replace though. You can also search mcmaster for "Socket-Screw Extractor Set" I have used these with some success as well.

My personal favorite for hard to remove...rusted screws, nuts, bolts ..whatever has threads and is stuck. I cannot remember the name, and I can not find it at mcmaster, but it attaches to your rivet gun. It has a 3/8 square drive, and is hex shaped. It should come with an adapter for screwdriver bits as well. Here is one from USATCO. They call it a break loose tool..but that is not the name that rings any bells.

USATCO break loose tool

Image of tool

You can get the idea by their picture. Here is the thing...you can NOT use an air hammer (muffler remover) with this tool. You NEED a RIVET GUN. What is the difference you ask? It is all in the trigger. Air hammers are either off...or full on. Rivet guns have a tease trigger that allows you to go tap...tap...tap..tap..tap.tap...as slow or fast as you want. You really need that tease trigger. I recommend The Yard Store as you can buy used with some kind of warranty from them. I think the yard store carries this break loose tool too, but I could not find it on their website..so ask them. Get either a 3x, 4x, 300, 400, type. The power and action are the best on these. Make sure to tell whoever you buy it from that you want it tested for a very good tease, as not all rivet guns have good tease to them.

MAKE THIS A STICKY!!!!!!

Ralph69220d · #**113** 11-11-2005, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbshop

DO NOT USE ANTISIEZE ON WHEEL BOLTS. also "when all else fails, follow directions."

That is also my understanding. No anti-seize on wheel lugs. Lightly clean wheel lugs with a wire brush so as not to get misleading torque readings.

csnow · #**114** 11-11-2005, 12:54 PM

I don't buy it. Anti-seize rules!

Ralph69220d · #**115** 11-11-2005, 01:13 PM

The reasoning behind not using anti-seize or any lubricant, and my personal belief, is that lubricants have the nasty habit of loosening the lug nut with time and vehicle use. I could be wrong, but semi-tractors don't use anti-seize or any lubricants for just that potential problem, which doesn't happen with great frequency, but it does happen.

lkchris · #**116** 11-11-2005, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ralph69220d

The reasoning behind not using anti-seize or any lubricant, and my personal belief, is that lubricants have the nasty habit of loosening the lug nut with time and vehicle use. I could be wrong, but semi-tractors don't use anti-seize or any lubricants for just that potential problem, which doesn't happen with great frequency, but it does happen.

You'll never get an accurate torque reading with a lubricated bolt. Specs provided are for dry threads.

dmorrison · #**117** 11-11-2005, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lee polowczuk

I have just cut and pasted 90% of these posts into a Word Document.

I am now going to clean them up a bit, print them, and put them in a binder.

periodically I will update the Word file.

thanks.

Easier way of saving the post is to, if using IE. click on "file" at the top of IE, and then select "save as". Under "save as type" select "web archive,single file" then save it. It will save the post just as you see it. The pictures will still be visible and linkable, but if the link is gone you can't get the larger picture. Do this for every page and you will have the info you need.

Dave

lkchris · #**118** 11-11-2005, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saint

Chewed up slipping phillips? ...

So many screws that appear Phillips are really Posidrv.

csnow · #**119** 11-11-2005, 01:31 PM

Still not buying. I have never known a fastener to come loose due to anti-seize.

Without lube, your threads get all chewed up from corrosion. Must be a conspiracy theory from below the snow belt.

Ever had to helicoil hub threads? Not fun.

Also, how even is the torque with chewed up fasteners and no lube. I would think the lube would serve to normalize the torque.

Kestas · #**120** 11-11-2005, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ralph69220d

The reasoning behind not using anti-seize or any lubricant, and my personal belief, is that lubricants have the nasty habit of loosening the lug nut with time and vehicle use. I could be wrong, but semi-tractors don't use anti-seize or any lubricants for just that potential problem, which doesn't happen with great frequency, but it does happen.

I happen to work with a guy who has made a carrer of engineering truck wheels, does testing, and writes specifications for truck maintenance. It is required to put two drops of oil (no more, no less) on each wheel bolt before installing the nut and torqueing.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode