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#1
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Stripped Bolt--HELP!
Need help removing a stripped bolt. Any ideas, experiences, tools, etc??
The bolt secures the coil pack to one of my spark plugs and it is totally stripped. It's kind of in a tight place, not a straight shot (partly the reason why I probably stripped it in the first place). Plus the fuel line is partially in the way, which is not removable or bendable.
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1997 E420 |
#2
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A picture would really help =)
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Current Stable: 1994 S500 v140, 210k miles, white with grey. Former Mercedes in the Stable: 1983 300CD Turbo diesel 515k mi sold (rumor has it, that it has 750k miles on it now) 1984 300CD Turbo Diesel 150 k mi sold 1982 300D Turbo Diesel 225 sold 1987 300D Turbo Diesel 255k mi sold 1988 300 CE AMG Hammer 15k mi sold 1986 "300E" Amg Hammer 88k mi sold (it was really a 200, not even an E (124.020) 1992 500E 156k mi sold etc. |
#3
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What size is the bolt? Could you drill it out the head then stuff an old allen wrench in the drill hole to unscrew?
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#4
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I recently bought a dremel with cutoff wheel and grinding attachments mainly for this purpose. I think it's sometimes the least traumatic way to approach this problem. Just keep abrading the head until it's gone.
Like Austin said, a picture would really help. There are many approaches to such a problem. It's a matter of picking the best one for the circumstances.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K |
#5
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i'll post a pic tonite after i get home...thx
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1997 E420 |
#6
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Whack it!
If it is one of the small allen drive bolts (5mm) that secure your coils down, if you can, get a 12pt 9mm socket and hammer it down over the old stripped bolt. Works like a charm everytime.
Just make sure you use a 12 point socket. At Sears they are around 4-5 bucks. loosen your 2 fuel lines up with 17mm wrench if needed to access. Good luck DR.D |
#7
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Vise-grips would be my first attempt. They even make ones with 'v-shaped' jaws that are particularly good for this purpose. The needle-nose ones are good for tight access.
Sometimes you can drive a tight-fitting 12 point socket on a stripped head and get some bite. Sears and others sell a set of sockets that have essentially left handed 'threads' inside just for this purpose, though I have not tried them yet. You can also use a Dremel or a file to grind 2 sides flat on the head to receive a wrench, or a slot in the middle to receive a flat-headed screwdriver. Larger bolts can sometimes be removed with a chisel (use chisel to 'dig' a slot on the side of the head, then change angle to force rotation) Best of luck.
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
#8
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as you can see from the pictures, the top bolt is removed, no problem. the bottom bolt is the stripped one, but it's covered up by the black cloth wire (i had to re-install the coil pack in order to drive the car). notice the bad angle and the tight space. i don't think the hammering idea is suitable here since i don't have a direct shot at it due to the bad angle and the fuel line (i prefer not removing the fuel line). i guess i can try filing/dremel 2 sides flat. then use a long needle nosed shaped vice grip (do they sell those?) to grip and hopefully twist loose the bolt...any other ideas? thanks.
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1997 E420 |
#9
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I'd drill out the head until it fell off and them remove the coil. Once the coil is out of the way and the load is off of the fastener it should be pretty easy to turn out.
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Jim |
#10
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if you're using the dremel
see if you can cut a slot in the head first.i would think a screwdriver would get in there easier than needle nose pliers.make the slot tight.you could even use a ratchet with the proper slot extension.can you put some fluid to loosen it up prior?
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'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms '92 legend 180kms '88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms '87 mustang gt(gone) '86 tbirdturbo(gone) '85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten) |
#11
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FWIW, I dealt with an intake bolt (allen socket head) that I later understood was overtorqued at the factory. A dremelled slot and impact screwdriver could not budge the bolt. Once I carved the head off the bolt, the bolt easily unscrewed by hand. Let's hope this is your case and not corrosion or galling.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K |
#12
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It doesn't look like you could get a dremel tool in there at the proper angle.
I would try the 12-point socket suggestion first because it's easiest. And if it doesn't work, then drilling it out definately will. My 2-cents. (Arguably worth that.) Jeff Pierce
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Jeff Pierce Current Vehicles: '92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver) '93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk) '99 Kawasaki Concours Gravely 8120 Previous Vehicles: '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon '53 Willys-Overland Pickup '85 Honda 750F Interceptor '93 Nissan Quest '89 Toyota Camry Wagon '89 Dodge Raider '81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport '88 Toyota Celica '95 Toyota Tacoma '74 Honda CB 550F |
#13
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Tough position.
I assume it is a hollow key bolt. Ideally, you would use something like this on the inside: Link to tool Or something like this on the outside: Link to tool
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1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
#14
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Wonderful Link!
I didn't know such tools existed! Now I know what to ask for next Christmas!
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K |
#15
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Be sure you use Anti-seize lube on threads of bolts going into aluminum to prevent this from happening again..........
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Rich 1990 300CE 71 Chevelle SS 454 |
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