Car is great in every way, except it will not accelerate when it's cold. You can floor it & until the RPMs get up to 2000 when the turbo kicks in, the thing barely moves.
I've done all the main stuff, like checking timing, filters, etc. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks...

How many miles? Have you checked the inj. pump timing? That has a big impact on performance. 6 deg.s retarded resulted in a significant reduction in power on my wife's.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Lou Nielsen:
How many miles? Have you checked the inj. pump timing? That has a big impact on performance. 6 deg.s retarded resulted in a significant reduction in power on my wife's.

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Car has 270000 on the clock, but new motor 15000 ago. The mechanic has played with timing back & forth.
Car is so bad on take-off I came in second to an old lady with a walker a couple days ago.

Hi Jim,
Did the problem begin after the engine replacement? If so, when....if not,when?
Do you have any idle problems when its cold?
Was the injection pump rebuilt or transfered to the (rebuilt?) engine?
Some odd problems can occur when the rack limiter screw is adjusted a bit too tight. Similar difficulties from a bad or wrongly adjusted aneroid compensator(the metal thing on top of the injection pump that the boost line connects to).
Even when they were new some of the 617.95 Turbodiesels were real pigs from a dead stop when cold.
Randy D.

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W.R.Durrance
ASE Master Tech
Mercedes Tech 19 Years

My bowden cable was so far out of adjustment that I'd see 4th by the time I reached 20-25mph...talk about a dog. 1st 2nd and 3rd never got to see 2000rpm. Once I adjusted the cable I actually experienced 2nd gear, and much to my delight 3rd! Now I dare say it flies...well, uh, at least compared to a 240D anyway.
( reason I mention the cable is it would've been disconnected during engine swap)


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03/83 300D
07/73 280

There is a secret to making these cars go. It is the anaroid fuel mixture BASE adjustment. You can take out the anaroid valve (very easy for a tech) and put a washer under it and the car will fly!! (But it will smoke a little. (it is a trade off) More fuel is more smoke= fast.

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Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

quote:

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Originally posted by Benzmac:
There is a secret to making these cars go. It is the anaroid fuel mixture BASE adjustment. You can take out the anaroid valve (very easy for a tech) and put a washer under it and the car will fly!! (But it will smoke a little. (it is a trade off) More fuel is more smoke= fast.

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I want to thank all you guys for your responses...I have printed them out & will submit them to my mechanic as soon as he has sobered up.

jim Peterson

quote:

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Originally posted by WDurrance:
Hi Jim,
Did the problem begin after the engine replacement? If so, when....if not,when?
Do you have any idle problems when its cold?
Was the injection pump rebuilt or transfered to the (rebuilt?) engine?
Some odd problems can occur when the rack limiter screw is adjusted a bit too tight. Similar difficulties from a bad or wrongly adjusted aneroid compensator(the metal thing on top of the injection pump that the boost line connects to).
Even when they were new some of the 617.95 Turbodiesels were real pigs from a dead stop when cold.
Randy D.

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Randy...I bought the car with the replacement motor, so I don't know the history on the replacement.
The car has been starting down to 10 deg. F. with no heat, & will idle like a champ as soon as it starts; you just can't tell if it's idling or accelerating
jim

Benzmac, I have an 81 300SD, where is the anaroid valve located? Is it the nut with a vacuum hose connected on top, located between the firewall and air filter housing?

thanks

Jim, does the engine rev up? If it revs up but you can't get good vehicle speed, try checking your transmission's cable adjustment, or transmission.

If your engine doesn't rev up at neutral, I'd first check the in-tank fuel strainer, then the pre-filter (small plastic filter before the pump), then the main filter.

These are a few basic things you can do prior to considering any repairs.

You can also check the fuel overflow valve which is located on the block side of the injection pump. This is a relief valve which controls fuel feed pressure to the pump. Valve could be stuck open.

Does your car perform perfectly when hot?

Good luck.

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Jake

[This message has been edited by poptest (edited 01-08-2000).]

Jake: The motor gains RPM's very slowly in neutral. The more I drive & the hotter it gets, the better it gets. After about 20 miles, I couldn't ask for a better performing diesel.
Thanks.....

Linkage! Looks like everything was mentioned with the exception of the throttle linkage. Make sure that when you have the petal to the metal that the pump linkage is at the full throttle stop. Inspect this by pushing the pedal down slowly to see if it works properly. These engines do tend to be a little doggy for the first couple of minutes (mine included) but after a mile or two I have full acceleration from my '85 300DT (230k mi).

This is just a single piece of the puzzle and you want everything working as designed....

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Jim, are you staying at a very cold area? Did this problem start together with the colder months? Low temperatures could increase your fuel and/or oil viscosity index, resulting in poor fuel pumpability.

You could have a mechanic check the fuel feed pressure after the filter or at the injection pump fuel inlet. You should see approximately 14 to 25 psi both on a cold and hot engine.

If you can't get good fuel pressure, try using some fuel additives to correct fuel viscosity. Also, check your fuel banjo bolts for blockage. Sometimes, MB uses an air bleed banjo bolt with a small orifice on it. If this fitting is used on any of the fuel supply lines other than the fuel return port, your pump would be receiving insufficient fuel.

I hope this helps.


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Jake