600$ Brake job for 500E? Is my dealer on crack?
 

Greetings everyone,

I just wanted some opinions regarding the front brakes of my 500E. My dealer quoted me approx. 600$ for new front discs and brake pads. I understand that the MB stuff is expensive, but still, I have a hard time believing it could cost as much...

am I being cheap? I just don't understand as I found some brand new ZIMMERMAN discs for 50 bucks a pop...I figure that even if I throw in some good quality pads and stainless steel brake lines I'm way off in price...

So my question is, what would you recommend ?

1) going to the dealer, pay 4 days worth of hard work for a front brake job and cry?

2) buying the Zimmerman discs, some pads and have them changed at an Indy (very good, honest work done, but doesn't specialize in MB)

3) Buying some cross-drilled rotors, green stuff pads, stainless steel lines and get it all fitted at my Indy, for approx the same price as the OE at my dealer.

I read something about the ABS sensor possibly being damaged when having brakes changed at shops who do not specialize in MB...Any feedback on this? I figures since a lot of you work on your cars a good shop should be able to tackle the job, right?

Anyways, all opinions/suggestions greatly appreciated

Nice day everybody,

Manu

Greetings Mr Spock,

Thanks for your advice. I would love to be able to do it myself but I lack the skills and the tools. Would you recommend having it done in an independant shop?

Cheers,

Manu

Why are you replacing the rotors? Unless they are warped or worn very thin, you should be able to replace several sets of pads alone before replacing the rotors.

Secondly, the cross drilled rotors are a waste of money. Crossdrilling was first done several years back to allow gases emitted from a particular pad material to escape. Since that time people feel that there is a functional advantage to crossdrilling. The only advantage is cosmetic.

Lastly, the dealer is not the most economical place to go for brake work. If the brakes are working smoothly, which indicates that the rotors can be reused, why not just slip in a set of new pads yourself? It is a very simple and quick job.

Good luck,

Many thanks to all who replied, it has been appreciated...

Thanks to your feedback I'm getting regular Zimmerman discs brakes and have them installed at my Indy. I should be saving approx 300$ this way :D :D :D

Wish I had a paypal account, I could have wired some Heineken-fundings to you guys:D :D

Many thanks again

Manu

Brake are a snap.
 

Yeah. I'm doing the brakes on my 92 400E today. New pads and having the rotors checked for trueness. Will turn as needed. To remove/ replace the rotors/pads is a very straightforward process. I understand your apprehension at working on the car. But do your self a favor and get the CD's/Work manual and get to know this car intimantly. Both provide diagrams/pics to guide you along.

Aldedmon,

Thanks a lot for the link. It looks clear enough. I might give this a try this week-end.

I still have doubts though. I mean, you have a 500E too, so you understand why I need to rely on good braking:D .

By the way, very nice cars. Love the 400.


EDIT : I don't know what's going on but I can reply to posts before they are actually posted http://darathor.free.fr/smileys/tourneanim01.gif

Found It.
 

Hey Manu, Check this out and then see if you still dont think you have the technical savvy to do the brake job. Its just a Car (as opposed to a woman) you CAN fix it!

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BrakePads

"people feel that there is a functional advantage to crossdrilling. The only advantage is cosmetic."

I am a bit confused on this one .... if this is so, why are Mercedes, Porsche, BMW and many other performance manufacturers installing them as standard equipment on some of their high performance cars?

This just doesn't sound right.

Cracking originally came about from non-chamferred edges on the drilling. Since then, all drilled rotors of any quality have the addition of the chamferred edges. Porsche reported this on their race cars in the late 1960s.

Here is an interesting site: Cross drilled

Haasman

I've been told you don't turn rotors on a Mercedes. At least that's what the venerable Frank King used to say in the Star magazine.

Actually, rotors are so easy to change and relatively inexpensive for most Mercedes, it's just as easy to replace them as it would be to turn them. They generally last at least 80K or more. I suppose that high speed stopping like on LA freeways would shorten their life.

Manu,

Go with #3, or Di It Yourself as its really not rocket science, you just need to have access to the tools and understand all the steps, actually I am doing the exact same thing this weekend.

Zimmerman Cross-Drilled (actually they are not drilled, they are cast into the rotor and are O.E. to many German Auto companies) rotors and EBC Green pads and Stainless Steel brake lines.

I am sure some one here can break down every single tool you will need and give you every step to get it done.

BTW, where did you find Zimmermans for $50 bucks? That is cheap, did they have rear rotors as well?

SP0CK

Yes I do have cross-drilled on the 300E, front and rear. I hate to say it but I don't know the brand. I will have to dig and see.

I have over 30k on them including some heavy use this past summer. They are great and no cracking. No fade and incredible in wet weather.

When I worked for Porsche in the 70's and then again in the 80's the cracking problem rarely appeared. I agree with you, it is a question of quality of the metal and how they were drilled (as well as the chamfer cuts).

Haasman

What a fortuitous thread!

My brake wear light came on for the first time when I pulled into work this morning. My 1991 300CE has 119m. I checked the service records from the PO and the car had new front rotors and new front and rear pads at 94m and again new front pads at 104m. If it is the front pads that need replacing, is that typical wear, only 10-15k for front pads? I don't drive hard by any means. I notice when looking past the front and rear wheels that the rotors have a lip all around the outer edge. Is there an easy way to measure rotor wear without buying a special tool like a micrometer?

Thanks,

glenmore
1991 300CE

Ball Park
 

My 3 coin rule
If your brake light is on and you have a lip whose thickness is no more than that a "Dime" - I might used them again.
"Pennys" - its about time to change them
"Nickel" - Regardless brake light or no hurry up and change em'
For you international guys. Not sure about the thicknesses of your coins and the corresponding equivalent in your "funny money";)

** (You measure it by placing the coin flat on the smooth part of the rotor and slide out toward the edge till you get to the "lip". Then run your finger over the lip and the coin. Which ever coin is closest in thickness to the lip the above applies)

I simply use an accurate machinist's ruler to measure rotor thickness. Assuming there's no horrible scoring or lip on the outer edge, there's enough of a difference in thickness between new and discard that the eye can distinguish with a ruler.

glenmore,
Unless you do a lot of high speed stopping, I'd expect at least 30K on a set of front pads and and at least twice that on the rear.

Are you using OEM pads?