I bought the Raybrig R130, 12V 5W, part no. RB164P, two to a pack is just right. The bulbs glow white, or at least I can't see any tint. I have white faces in my cluster and it appeared a bit too bright, so I dialed down the intensity some. I might experiment with a red or orange bulb, since this exercise has made me a master at pulling the instrument cluster.

Hi,

I am currently trying remove the cluster on a 1987 300E. I purchased the two hook tools from MB. I hooked on to both sides and gentlely pulled, I managed to get both sided to come out about 1/4 inch, the only seem to see saw in the middle. In that when I pull on one side the other side slide back in. I don't seem to be able to pull both sides out at the same time.

Is there a trick to this? I have put quite a bit of force. Anymore force and I think that I may break the edge of the cluster. I looked from below and there appears to be enough slack on the speedo cable.

I am hooking onto the front lip on each side which is about 1/8 thick. Am I doing this correctly? Any suggestions?

Thanks.

__________________
Stan

1991 300E
1980 BMW 528i

You shouldn't pull the cluster out without undoing the speedo cable first! Stretching the cable will likely result in a bouncy needle. The best method, unfortunately is a bit longer, but is the easiest overall. Remove the under dash panel. If you can get your hands (if they're small enough) up to the speedo connector, then undo the cable. Then you should be able to push the cluster from behind without using the hooks except as a last resort. If you can't reach it, it helps to remove any plastic a/c ducting that runs from the center console to the side vents. The ducting is press fit onto flanges at each end, so it's not a big deal to remove them. That should give evena ham fisted guy a clean shot at the cluster and speedo cable.

MTI,

Thanks you for the tip.

I will try looking again from behind. I actually did take the lower panel off yesterday and tried to go from behind, but my hands were definitely too big. I was not aware that there was ducting that could be removed. I will try that and give it a go again.

__________________
Stan

1991 300E
1980 BMW 528i

There is also an oil gauge tube that needs to be disconnected, and some lights that you twist and pull out and a multi-pronged round plug on the left side.

When I screwed the speedometer cable in as tight as I could by hand, the odometer didn't work. I used a water pump adjustable wrench on it and an open end wrench on the oil pressure gauge.

Don't forget to reconect everything, especialy the oil pressure gauge, which is armed (with oil) and dangerous (to your mat or carpet).

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Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)

Luckily my year 190E didn't have a direct oil line for the pressure gauge, just vacuum.

Richard,

Thanks for the note about the oil line. I will try not to make a mess of the mats.
\

__________________
Stan

1991 300E
1980 BMW 528i

We need a hint from Heloise here "How to remove soot-contaminated oil from Diesel engines from fabric and other places.

I have found Go-Jo works well on skin and rubber, but fabric seems to have a strong affinity for SDLO (Sooty Diesel Lubricating Oil). I change my own oil, you see, and somehow, somewhere between the drain pan and the detergent jugs I take it away with, a minute quantity of this nasty stuff always seems to get where I doi not wish it to go.

Degreaser will change a black spot to an unfashionable shade of gray spot, but will not cause it to disappear completely.

Perhaps I need some enzyme-type cleaner that contains petroleum eating microbes.

I have tried the topsider but it is painfully slow.

__________________
Semibodacious Transmogrifications a Specialty

1990 300D 2.5 Turbo sedan 171K (Rudolf)
1985 300D Turbo TD Wagon 219K (Remuda)

"Time flies like and arrow, yet fruit flies like a banana"
---Marx (Groucho)