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  #1  
Old 01-27-2000, 10:43 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Maryland. USA
Posts: 180
BenzMac, Thanks for the word on using mid grade.
My G has 115k miles. Fluids have been changed regularly. Tuneup and engine rubber completed.

How do you check the wheel bearings? Or should they be put on a PM schedule and changed every XXk miles?

Diff locks work great, but getting them to engage can be tricky to downright stubbborn. Especially when its cold. Following the manual to the T so as to not break something expensive. Any thoughts?

Getting ready to change out the transaxle mounts and possibly the auto transmount. Next will be the exhaust. Going for a TimeValve stainless. Looks like the gas tank has to be dropped.

Would appreciate any comments on anything I've written here or things I should be looking out for.

Just finishing up my first ownership year.

Thanks, J.R.
1980 450SEL
1981 Volvo
1986 280GE
DITY mech

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  #2  
Old 01-28-2000, 02:35 PM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 203
Well on the timevalve exaust I would not suggest it. I have it on the SDL and its louder, there is less performance, and the quality isnt too good. It works I guess, pretty hard for exaust not to, but I think performance and noise is sacrificed. Its not mandrel bent, rather to make a bend the pipes are cut at angles and welded, but its been on there for a while and no sign of rust, so if thats what youre after then it might be right for you. I do believe that the gas tank has to be dropped for exaust replacement, but its not that hard to do. Just my 0.02

------------------
Bart
1987 300SDL-T
1985 190E 2.3-16
1984 280GE Cabrio
1978 240D
1957 220S(running one day, I hope!)

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  #3  
Old 01-28-2000, 03:30 PM
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Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: SW Colorado USA
Posts: 296
I just had the front axle resealed down in Santa Fe. Once it was apart they replaced the wheel bearings, both CV boots and all the other seals involved. The job took 2 techs ALL day to complete the job. I don't think there is a good way to check the bearings. The tech told me that the front end should be serviced every 30k mi. The only reason I did mine was that telltale gray grease on the ball joint. The drivers side CV boot was torn and leaking. My G is a 463 Chassis with electric-hydralic diff locking but I was advised to use them often to keep them in working order. I changed the differentials and transfer case over to synthetic gear oil and it seems to help in the cold. I've put 15k mi on it since I bought it last summer. I even drove it from Minn. to southern Cal. with my wife and kids. It appears to be as solid as the block of granite it must have been carved from.

------------------
90 300GE 5sp
95 740iL


[This message has been edited by G-Man (edited 01-28-2000).]
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  #4  
Old 01-28-2000, 09:09 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Maryland. USA
Posts: 180
AMGM. Thanks for the info. The Timevalve on my 450 is all mandrel bent. Beautiful work. Guess they figured out how to bend it with cracking it or folding it. Thanks for the advice.

G-Man, I'll call Europa next week and ask them what their definition of 30k front end service is. An ounce of prevention in this vehicle is worth every penny. By the way. Nice description "It appears to be as solid as the block of granite it must have been carved from."

J.R.
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  #5  
Old 01-28-2000, 09:28 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
The book calls for the front end to be repacked every 80,000. I don't know why, but that's what it says.
The timevalve exhaust is good stuff, but making it fit can be tricky. You do have to take down the tank. You will need a torch to tweak the parts to fit well. Also go to Autozone and get some header wrap to cool it off on top of the tank!!

------------------
Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM


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