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  #16  
Old 04-15-2003, 02:50 PM
zhandax
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pesuazo,

I only shot that part. I will shoot the arm side this weekend and post...will not have time to remove it until then.
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  #17  
Old 04-17-2003, 03:51 PM
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Steve,

Quote:
Originally posted by stevebfl
If the parts were readily available I'd fix it that way it a heart beat. Calibration would be no problem as far as I'm concerned. They even told us (hush-hush) in Bosch training how to pop the cap on the outside and adjust it with a little trim screw.
Could you please describe the adjustment procedure (hush-hush)?

I was told that the potentiometer - at least the part with that number - is available from Bosch (in good old Germany), I ordered one this evening. I will have no answer since end of next week due to the easter holidays but I'll keep you informed.

best regards,
bis denn,
Christian

1989 300TE
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  #18  
Old 04-17-2003, 05:47 PM
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Chris, could you please give some info or website on the place you purchased the pot?
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  #19  
Old 04-18-2003, 07:25 AM
zhandax
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pesuazo,

He is correct.

I had no luck with the Russians.
I finally found a sentence on one of their pages which said (roughly)
'we do not deliver beyond the Moscow beltway'. (at least that is what I get from the 'annular highway' sentence.)

I ordered Bosch part# 3437224035 (no spaces and no dashes) on Wednesday morning from
http://www.forparts.com/
and hopefully (depending on Bosch), it will be delivered tomorrow.
The part is now apparently available from Bosch, who, I guess, was loosing too many sales to junkyards.
The number on my housing is 3 437 224 015, but I have beeen advised the part# has been updated to the 3 437 224 035 housing, which is the one available.

I will follow up with pics and results, as this could save all of us a pile of cash.
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  #20  
Old 04-18-2003, 10:29 AM
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zhandax,

thanks for the link.
It is a great idea to post the pot replacement with pics.
It certainly will save us all a lot of money.
Given this problem is so common I expect to happen to me at any time also.
Having this procedure with pics will simplify it for a lot of people (including me).

Perhaps you want to create a new thread "Air Mass Potentiometer Replacement: Illustrated".
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  #21  
Old 04-20-2003, 11:06 PM
zhandax
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UPS did not stop at my house Friday, so results will have to wait until next weekend.
I did pull the air meter out and take pictures.

The first pic shows the potentiometer housing mounted on the air meter. To remove the housing, put the tip of a knife in the middle of the cap (1) and pry out.
Then remove the four screws with a T15 torx driver. -right pair shown in (2)- .


If stevebfl will confirm, I think the cap on the outside with the trim screw underneath is (3). The rubber cap did not come out intact on a 15yr old version, hopefully it will on a new one.
Attached Thumbnails
300E: test sticks on 10% duty cycle-air-meter-post-cvr.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 04-20-2003, 11:12 PM
zhandax
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The next two pics show the air meter side of the potentiometer with the two wipers. The first is at rest with the sensor plate in the up position. The second is with the sensor plate fully depressed. You can see the epoxy on the screw on the arm side, if this is a screw.
Attached Thumbnails
300E: test sticks on 10% duty cycle-air-meter-post-up2.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 04-20-2003, 11:14 PM
zhandax
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I did find two more problems while unhurriedly removing the air meter. When I depress the throttle valve, I saw about a 1/2 cup of oil in the air intake. The car is sitting on an incline with the passenger side higher than driver's.
With this age and mileage, do I replace the valve guides, or get a full-blown valve job?

The other problem is the bracket between the engine and motor mount is broken at the end that holds the mount bolt. I looked on Fastlane and found the motor mounts, but cannot find the bracket.
Does anyone know what it is called?

While I have this much disassembled, would it be easier to remove the intake so I can replace the gasket and replace the motor mount with it out of the way, or get it running and put the front end up on ramps?
Attached Thumbnails
300E: test sticks on 10% duty cycle-air-meter-post-dn2.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 04-20-2003, 11:41 PM
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Great picks, zhandax.

At that mileage, I would suggest a compression test to determine if the head needs to be done. See my post on "1986 compression test results". Although the seals are a given. I always try the cheap thing first, but let the pro's give us the input.

For what I have read, the motor mount on the driver's side will be much easier to change with the air intake removed. I could not find the bracket you mention in any of the parts catalogs I have laying around.

From the picks I see the thin arm is the one that caused the hole in the substrate, does it excert more pressure?

Good work, please keep us posted.
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  #25  
Old 04-21-2003, 12:32 AM
zhandax
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I meant valve seals, not guides.
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  #26  
Old 04-21-2003, 09:02 AM
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I'm real interested in what you receive under that number 3 437 224 035. Bosch describes that part as a terminal pin housing.

The trim screw is item #3. Since just about every one of these I have went into was worn out I have never tried the trim screw since school (about 17 years ago). I have tried using the bulk adjustment and don't think that adjusting a new part would be much problem.
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  #27  
Old 04-23-2003, 07:54 AM
zhandax
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stevebfl,

The part arrived today (Tuesday).
If it is not identical to the original, it will require a digital caliper and/or an ohm meter in a side-by side comparision to see the difference. (it will get both)
The cover for the adjustment screw is not included; guess I will use chewing gum. (joking)

The credit goes to pesuazo; he provided the pic with the updated part number, as well as the link to the site to translate Cryllic, where we saw that the Russians were selling this part as a potentiometer.

I will check the resistance after installing the housing, but I suspect it is pointless to adjust until after I reassemble the system and verify the adjustment of the sensor plate, since it mechanically controlls the position of the wiper arm.

Does this sound right?
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  #28  
Old 04-23-2003, 11:07 PM
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zhandax, from a previous post you wrote:
"The number on my housing is 3 437 224 015, but I have beeen advised the part# has been updated to the 3 437 224 035 housing, which is the one available".

And later, in your last post:
"The credit goes to pesuazo; he provided the pic with the updated part number, as well as the link to the site to translate Cryllic, where we saw that the Russians were selling this part as a potentiometer."

I want to make sure the updated number was confirmed by the parts store where you purchased the new pot. That will clear my concerns.
Since stevebfl questioned it, doubts have been going around my head (his knowledge of MB's is way up there).

I appreciate the credit for the picture, but the part number info came from another post in this forum. I believe it was either Benzmac or M.B. Doc, their/his credit.

If you can, take side to side pics.

Like haasman writes:

"Keep us posted"
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  #29  
Old 04-24-2003, 07:19 AM
zhandax
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pesuazo,

I told Olympic that the number on the old part was '015" and asked if '035' was an updated part number.
He put me on hold, and when he came back, said this was the case.
I will post side-by-side pics; the major difference I have noted is that there is a larger coverage of semiconductor material on the new part (only on the lower, or left side) than on the old.
The fly in the ointment came when I got to work today, and was invited to join my colleagues all weekend in an effort to finish out the fiscal quarter with a flourish.
After some horse-trading, I can probably minimize Sunday, which will allow time to remove the old pot, measure, and take pics.
Looks like I will not have time to completely put this to bed until next weekend, though.
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  #30  
Old 04-24-2003, 09:04 AM
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I would love to buy a number of those potentiometers if they are indeed Bosch. The quick check of my Bosch supplier shows that part number out of stock but rather cheap.

I might call the tech line at Bosch after they wake up. Are you saying this source is out of Russia? I have seen the tech sites and downloaded wiring diagrams before. Did you buy this from them?
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