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#16
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You can not have closed loop without EHA current doing it, that is why I suggested to look at it.
The O2 sensor can be going cold at idle if the heater isn't working. Try disconnecting the O2 sensor under the carpet passenger side and see if the car still needs the EHA disconnected. The point here is that when warm the EHA current should be zero with the O2 sensor disconnected. If it still matters whether the EHA is connected you do have a problem there.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#17
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Steve,
Did the tests: 1. Hesitation almost completely gone with O2 sensor connected and EHA disconnected. 2. Hesitation almost completely gone with the O2 sensor disconnected and EHA connected. 3. Hesitiation/Stall is there when both O2 sensor and EHA are connected. While in this condition (3) which is better for me to run the car without, at least until I can get the EHA harness and figure out what my problem is. thanks for your patience martin
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#18
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The better position whould be with the O2 sensor disconnected and the EHA connected. The reason is that you will get starting enrichment and cold running enrichment in this case.
The problem you have is either that the car won't run at the lambda mixture or the O2 sensor is fouled and is driving the mixture with no relation to actual mixture.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#19
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Steve,
The O2 sensor was new on friday afternoon. And the car was adjusted then to a 50% duty cycle or as best as he could get it when it did work intermittantly at idle, the duty cycle is in the 50's at 2500 rpm, and the exhaust gases reflected a well adjusted car. My only problem is this blasted hesitation/stall and hard start. I will drive it without the O2 until I can get the EHA harness in and can do your recommended tests. It is very strange the car was running great until last Friday night, when I started getting these problems. I really think it is electrical. Will update when the EHA harness comes in. m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#20
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One other thing the car is a hard start in all three conditions.
Used to start on first turn -no gas, now takes a good 3-5 sec's and a little gas peddle. Thanks m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#21
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Hi Mark,
I corrected my cam timing today with the woodruf keys. It really really improved the rough idle I had before. Itīs rock steady now. I also had some driveability problem before especially after cold starts when the engine was powerless and hesitant until warm. As far as I can tell this is also cured now. Good Luck, Mikael westerberg 1984 500 SEL Vanersborg, Sweden |
#22
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throttle switch
I thought I would test the throttle switch while I wait for the eha harness. However, I have proved I am electronically challenged as I can not figure out which pin to use to check the ohm's. If anyone can figure out the work please review this link and explain it to me.
http://www.mingram.com/mb/Engine/107/M117_56/073-152.pdf Thanks inadvance m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#23
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Some one has to be able to interpret this for me. WHich plugs for the idle speed stop and which plugs for the full speed stop
thanks m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#24
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Well the switch that is closed at idle is the idle switch and the one that is closed at full throttle is the full throttle switch.
By the drawing that (takes forever to load) pin 1 to pin 2 measures idle and pin 2 to pin 3 measures full throttle. The controller sees this as a ground signal at the appropriate terminal.
__________________
Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#25
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Thanks steve now some testing.
m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#26
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Harness
The eha harness is here, I will be doing my tests tonight.
m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#27
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set multimeter on milliamps(mA)
black in one side of the EHA harness (black with red line)plug red in the other(pure black). I assume that is correct. 0.00 key off +1.18 ignition on engine off -1.56 ignition on engine on drove around the block got no fluctuation. Am I doing this right this sure does not look it. Went back and checked it test drove it for 10 miles readings are accurate per my multimeter. My duty cycle reading is also screwy as it will not give a fluctuating signal at all. Either pegs out at 98.6% or 50.3%. It tests out as a 70% with key in ignition on so I assume the socket is good. m
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) Last edited by mhingram; 04-25-2003 at 12:28 AM. |
#28
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Something is wrong with your current set-up. Your meter must be in series with the circuit. Verify the circuit conceptually and then with an ohm meter. Your test lead should have male and female connectors the same as the eHA connector. One goes to the EHA and the other hooks to the EHA connector. From the circuits stand point you have just added 15 inches to the two wires.
In reality one wire is just an extention. The other is cut and (in the MB harness) the two ends are exposed in the third connector. The two ends must be hooked together for the circuit to work. That connection must be your multimeter in the Amps position. In the volts or resistance position current does not pass through the meter leads. In the amp position it will. Since you are getting proper readings out of the duty cycle diag conn, it is unlikely that you wouldn't get some current flow. You should look up the proper key on engine off current in the CD. The large majority run 20ma. the next largest group run 10ma. I don't know of any zero ma ones. Keep working to be sure of your circuit connection while looking for that key on, engine off current. If there really is none, its a big problem. Use your hook up to view the idle speed valve. It should have around 6-700ma.
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Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician |
#29
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Steve I think you are right my current is very screwy. I have attached a couple of pictures as I believe it is setup correctly.
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Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
#30
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harness assembly
__________________
Martin Ingram Colorado Springs 2005 320 CDI 2006.5 VW Jetta TDI 1991 560SEL (179000 Sold) 1972 280SEL 4.5 ('The Lead Sled' 320000 miles when sold.) 1972 220D (225000 when sold) |
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