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  #16  
Old 04-30-2003, 10:31 AM
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STORMINORMAN - been follwing this thread and did some research online. Seems to be worth trying (auto-Rx). Anyhow is there not an issue with overfilling? Or might I ask, what is the proper procedure for using Auto-RX? I've been lead to believe you shouldn't fill the oil past the recomended capacity because it would put extra pressure on the seals and possibly cause leaks- right?

Have you tried the Auto-RX transmission product?

Also - how do you like your SVX? I love those cars but I went with a W124 (92 400e) because I was sacred off by the weak transmission stories I've heard (about the SVX). It's ironic because my W124 needs a new ac evaporator an various other problems have gone way beyond the cost of a new/rebuilt SVX tranny! Also seemed as if the leather interiors don't wear well past 100K.

csnow - check out this forum - do an Auto-RX search. This forum seems to be a more of a technical lubricant forum, some posting are vehicle fleet managers as well as some engineering typs. The posts I've read here have convinced me to give Auto-RX a try.

http://www.oilanalysis.com/message_boards/message_details_by_list.asp?foldername=Auto%2DRX&messagenumber=1%20
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2003, 10:53 AM
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i would siphon out an amount so that the total oil would not be more than the mid-point to full. there is a TSB out on overfilling of W124's. could result in a main seal leak...
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  #18  
Old 05-01-2003, 12:18 PM
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Thumbs up Another good thing about a canister-type...

...filter is that you can easily remove/replace the filter (and about 8 oz. of oil, too) from the top.

The nice thing about a MB dipstick is that you can actually READ the oil level re: overfilling, too! I always like to see some metal showing beneath the upper red marker.

jsmith's comment is 100% correct. The 16 oz. (2 oz. Auto-Rx per 8 quart oil capasity) I added barely made the line on the dipstick move after I replaced the filter and cleaned out the canister on my 420SEL. Proper treatment requires a new filter (but, not necessarilly new oil) for the 500-1,000 mile initial 16 oz. application, then an oil & filter change, drive for about 2,000 miles, add 16 oz. Auto-Rx and drive for another 500-1,000 miles, change oil & filter again and you are done. A 3 oz. maintenance dose (I'm going to use 4 oz. because of my 8 quart oil capasity) is also recommended.

In answer to your questions, tdk_M119, but in no real order:

The transmission product is the same as the engine product: just follow the application directions, which encourage you to remove ALL transmission fluid after the treatment. Notice this is accomplished when standard MB service procedures are followed, i.e. the draining of the torque convertor. I just had a transmission service done on both the SVX & the 420SEL so I'm waiting a bit before trying it in the transmissions. Probably will go into the C6 and the AOD in the other vehicles, too.

As far as the SVX goes, we just love that car. Had one transmission replacement done (under warranty) at about 55K miles: all the design/mechanical upgrades had been long determined by that time (circa 1997) and the failures that had plagued some of the early production were not as prevelant in later years. Realize that some of the people that have/almost worship this car drive them VERY, VERY HARD. Most early problems had to do with the fluid overheating because of blockage in the tranny fluid cooler lines or in the tranny fluid filter. Regular tranny service (each 30K) and CHECKING THE FLID LEVEL (duh!) is supposed to be the ticket, but addition of an aftermarket cooler, aftermarket filter system and use of Redline's high temp ATF is also highly recommended. Especially by those who drive these things at 105 mph around curves.

I actually had more problems with the rear wheel bearings than any other item on the car, and that was a series of improper installation procedures by the dealer, all also done under warranty. Other than that, not much has ever gone wrong... My driver's door power window went SNAP! last week and I'm hoping it is just an $8 clip that broke because the motor runs fine. Maybe the cable? We'll see.

The motor is a jewel, build like an MB with an almost bullet-proof bottom end. I expect to get many years and many miles yet out of mine. According to my records I have spent less than $3,000 in repairs, normal service, parts & tires (including a set of OEM wheels and studded snows) over 11 years and 100+K miles. Everything except gas & insurance.

Should have bought two.

Absolutely the best car for rain & snow I've ever driven. I guess there are a few Audi's that will give it a run for its money, but they all cost a lot more. The AWD system is totally transparent to me.

Cheers!

Norm
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  #19  
Old 05-02-2003, 08:41 AM
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hey stormin',

good info on this thread. i'm getting ready to do an oil change and i guess i'll wait a bit so as not to have two oil changes in a row. out of curiosity - did you do a topsider oil change at the oil and filter change step? that's how i do my changes. since i've had the car its oil has only been drained once down below - when i had the head gasket done. don't see any harm in continuing to do what i've been doing since i change the oil hot anyway and anything going thru the filter ought to be still in suspension...

cheers
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  #20  
Old 05-02-2003, 11:41 AM
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Lightbulb Actually, I would think that...

...in order to REALLY get everything out of the oil pan cracking open the drain plug every once and a while would tend to get any of the heavier stuff congregating on the bottom out of the engine.

The Topsider system sure seems to be convenient but I just don't see how a tube is going to get all the gunk that settles down by weight on the bottom.

At least during an Auto-Rx application I would get down there and see what comes out, perhaps even after using the Topsider: if you opened the drain plug and 6 more oz. of goo drained out it wouldn't be in there anymore, would it?

Interesting to find out...

Cheers!
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  #21  
Old 05-02-2003, 02:22 PM
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yeah, i'm going to do that after the 1000 miles - i decided to add the auto-rx at the oil change. the topsider debate goes on and on and i don't want to touch that off on this thread...
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  #22  
Old 05-02-2003, 10:04 PM
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I use delo 400 in my euro 500 SE as it's a diesel oil is high detergent, After a few changes oil stays clean a long time ,would have to guess if lifter is cleanable at all this would be the safest way. Have friend that owns big excavating Co he uses diesel spec oil in all his cars and trucks and of course his heavy equiptment.........
William Rogers.....
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  #23  
Old 05-02-2003, 10:14 PM
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William

So diesel spec'd oil is OK for gas cars?

Haasman
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  #24  
Old 05-02-2003, 10:56 PM
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Diesel lube oils for gas cars

Oils like the Delo oil are fine for gasoline cars. The duty requirements for diesels are typically more severe and oils which meet the SAE specs for diesels have no trouble meeting gasoline oil specs.

Of course you have some OEM specified oils for a few special cars such as BMW's new M5, which have viscosity requirements which may not be available in diesel spec oils. But for the vast majority of cases, a major brand diesel lube oil is fine for gasoline engines.

By the way, I have 292,000 miles on my 4 cylinder, turbocharged, '89 Mazda 626. I bought this car new, and I have changed oil and filters at 3K with dino oil. Never opened the engine, it has the original turbo. Still pulls original boost levels and uses less than 1 quart per 3000 miles - admittedly leaking here and there, rather than burning most of that amount.

Point being that if you stick with a good quality name brand oil and change it religiously, you can obtain excellent longevity of your engine without additives or without having to use synthetics.

That said, I do use Mobil 1 in my 500E!

Rgds,
Chris W.
in the engine business
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  #25  
Old 05-02-2003, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
The Topsider system sure seems to be convenient but I just don't see how a tube is going to get all the gunk that settles down by weight on the bottom.
Stormin' (god I love that name!), I think if you used a good synthetic like Mobil 1, you would NOT find any gunk at the bottom of the pan. If you use a mineral based oil, you will. Relatively speaking.
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  #26  
Old 05-03-2003, 03:53 AM
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it's about a 45 minute job to pull the lower oil pan off a V8 MB clean the pan real good ,check the screen on the oil pump put a nice fresh pan gasket on.All that and you get to gaze at the beauty of the Mercedes bottom end........
William Rogers.........
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  #27  
Old 05-03-2003, 10:00 AM
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that delvac 1300 seems to be doing something. i just changed my oil and found what looked like a broken black plastic like ring clinging to the old filter. i looked in the canister compartment on the engine block and found a bigger piece in there. i tried to grab it and it broke apart and dissolved! i guess there was some carbon and/or sludge that was cleaned up by the delvac. interestingly, the sticking/stuck lifter problem i encountered occured only since i started using delvac 1300. maybe there's some dislodged pieces in there? i am hoping the auto-rx will do a more thorough cleaning.

btw there is a synthetic version of delvac - "delvac 1" which is cheaper than mobil 1 but is hard to find. there is also another brand of diesel synthetic oil which is allegedly available at walmart...
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  #28  
Old 05-03-2003, 10:22 AM
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this is my input after carrying out an engine flush today.

mine is a 190e 1993 car with 114 k miles on the clock.

the problem was of noisy lifters on startup when cold and also intermittently when hot ,so i decided to use engine flushing oil made by morris, a uk firm specialising in lubricants.

i drained the old oil which looked black/dirty-put in 5 litres on engine flush and ran the engine at idle for 10 minutes,then drained the flushing oil.

next i replaced the oil filter with a new one before finally topping the engine with 5 litres of 10w/40 semi-synthetic oil

verdict--wait for it

still get the noisy lifter ticking noise on startup and intermittently when hot-so it did not work for me as it must be a worn out lifter.
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  #29  
Old 05-03-2003, 01:37 PM
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Have an interrmittant . . .

ticking lifter in my '94 S500. So ordered some Auto-RX and have just added it (about 50miles). So will let you know.

If it does stop the ticking, it will be the first 'additive' (I know it's not an additive), that does.
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  #30  
Old 05-03-2003, 02:11 PM
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Thumbs up Three comments:

I jus' love it when you guys wax eloquently about clean pans & beautiful "bottom ends"!

Those trying Auto-Rx: please be sure to inspect the oil in the drain pan & the contents of the filters and give us a post about what you find. (sunil190e-1.8: what did your 5lt. of flush oil look like when it came out?)

I was not intentionally resurecting the Topsider debate.

Cheers!

Stormin'
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