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  #31  
Old 05-03-2003, 03:10 PM
sunil190e-1.8's Avatar
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Location: uk
Posts: 236
stormin norman,

the flushing oil looked black and dirty and was like fresh cooking oil before i put in in!

on the upside,the engine oil in the car after the flush looks clean and fresh. .

in hind sight, i should have analysed the used flushing oil better than just looking at its colour.

Last edited by sunil190e-1.8; 05-03-2003 at 03:15 PM.
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  #32  
Old 05-03-2003, 03:56 PM
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Location: West Linn, Or
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Question Do they have the "power flushing" system...

...machines (like Bilstein?) in use over there in your
"neck-o'-the -woods", sunil190e-1.8?

So the Morris flushing oil is a product that you use one time, @
100% of system capasity and run at idle for 10 minutes? As far as analysis is concerned it would be interesting to see what is in the stuff to begin with! I would imagine the UOA's could really run the gamut based upon the condition of the engine.

Does anybody know what solvent the power-flush machines in the US generally use? And are these run with the motor on or off?

Cheers!
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  #33  
Old 05-03-2003, 04:48 PM
dmorrison's Avatar
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Interesting post.
I removed the oil pan of the 300TD at about 150,000mi.
It was extremely clean. I removed it to replace the turbo oil drain tube O ring and to replace the oil pan gasket. After 150,000 miles of using "dino" oil and Mercedes filters, I did feel that the oil pan was quite clean and found no particles or gunk in the system. I try to change the oil at 3-4000 interval and always with a new Mercedes filter.

Your lifter is bleeding down once the engine is off. Its probably a mechanical condition in the lifter. Probably not dirt blocking the oriface of the lifter.

Dave
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1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
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1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
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1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
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  #34  
Old 05-06-2003, 04:32 AM
JimF's Avatar
'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,925
Update: 100 miles

The TICKING HAS STOPPED!!!!! It quit a few miles ago and I'm obviously guite happy.

So far since this started (6months or so), I've tried:
Rislone Engine Treatment
Ventil Sauber
CD Valve/Lifter cleaner
Pyroil Engine Flush
Gold Eagle 5 Minute Motor Flush
Different OILs [Valvoline and Castrol]

Not sure that it won't come back, but AUTO-RX is the first product to stop the ticking!

Will update at 300 miles or so.
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  #35  
Old 05-06-2003, 09:47 AM
dakota's Avatar
Moof !
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Seattle WA USA
Posts: 469
That's interesting and good news, Jim. I've a question...is the Rx still in there or have you replaced with oil, and what type?

Also, I ran across this page yesterday. Maybe it applies to your case.
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  #36  
Old 05-06-2003, 12:11 PM
JimF's Avatar
'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
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Dakota, that's me and . . .

my page. The main page can be seen by clicking on the 'www' icon below.

Although I had the lifter tick before the two (2) oil tubes let go. The oil tube failures certainly aggrevated the problem. But the ticking and oil tubes were coinidental. At the time I wrote that page, I was convinced that the oil tubes were the cause of the ticking. But they were not!

I have only 100 miles and will change the oil and filter at 500 miles. I will cut it apart and take some pictures.

I'm currently using Castrol 20W50 dino oil. Like it a little better than Valvoline 20W50.
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  #37  
Old 05-06-2003, 12:29 PM
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JimF: Great News! Ever try a 15W-40 HD oil?

Like Delo, Delvac, or (my favorite) Pennzoil LongLife?

Don't recall how many miles on your S500: are you anticipating the 2nd treatment (if over 100K) and/or the maintenance dose?

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'91 420 SEL @ 199K, '92 SVX @ 181K, '93 SC400 @ 86K, '93 Kaw ZX-11 @ 30K, '87 F250 @ 181K , 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6K, Y2K Honda NightHawk 250 with 1.5K, '88 420SEL I.@ 179K & the 2nd latest, an '88 420SEL II.@ 210K runnin' parts car, '85 F150 300/NP435
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  #38  
Old 05-06-2003, 01:00 PM
dakota's Avatar
Moof !
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Seattle WA USA
Posts: 469
Jim, well I guess you've seen that web page then

I wonder if you have considered 0W40 or 15W50 Mobil 1? I've heard that they will, amazingly, quiet lifters in diesel MBs.
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  #39  
Old 05-06-2003, 01:04 PM
JimF's Avatar
'94 S500: only 793 sold!
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,925
The car has . . .

104Kmiles so I may use the second treatment. We'll see how it goes. But very pleased so far, however will it stand the test of time????

Never used synth oil but may try some after the last treatment.
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  #40  
Old 05-06-2003, 02:02 PM
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Lightbulb If you don't have a lot of miles on the oil...

...that is in there now, you don't really need to hesitate leaving the Auto-Rx in for more than 500 miles: if the oil was pretty "fresh" vs. being at the end of the normal change cycle you will just get additional cleaning, up to the capasity of the filter, which should be pretty safe if you put a new one on.

Either on this treatment or the next leaving it in for 1000 miles shouldn't hurt a thing as it does not affect the lubricity of the oil. Some have left it in for their normal, entire oil change cycle and oil analysis showed no adverse effect.

I'm very interested in what the oil coming out of the pan looks like and what you find in the filter pleats as it compares to my experience. Maybe you better do it @ 500?

I also find it very interesting that some people are so of the belief that putting in anything other than oil is a waste of time and money because "it's ALL snakeoil"... If you took an MB into the average dealer (not under warranty) with a mechanical noise and they charged you $50 and the noise was actually gone( !) most owners would be praising the dealer and thanking their lucky stars!

Hope it is a permanent fix! Cheers!
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'91 420 SEL @ 199K, '92 SVX @ 181K, '93 SC400 @ 86K, '93 Kaw ZX-11 @ 30K, '87 F250 @ 181K , 2001 Valkyrie Interstate @ 6K, Y2K Honda NightHawk 250 with 1.5K, '88 420SEL I.@ 179K & the 2nd latest, an '88 420SEL II.@ 210K runnin' parts car, '85 F150 300/NP435
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  #41  
Old 05-06-2003, 02:30 PM
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come on now! I'm really suprised that this theard has gone three pages. Modern engine oils have enough detergent in them to wash a hog for a date at the county fair.
Back in the fifties engine sludge might well have been a problem in the old 53 Chey grain truck that got run only in the fall and had it's oil changed every leap year.
Lifters have very close tolerances and they can GO BAD.....I don't put ketchup on Samlon no matter how many adds Hines puts out proclaiming
it as a gourmet delight, nor do I put snake squeezings in my beautiful Mercedes engines....
William Rogers.......
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  #42  
Old 05-06-2003, 03:20 PM
haasman's Avatar
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The Auto-RX site states:

Basic Procedure for Engines with Less Than 100,000 miles
STEP 1
Install new oil filter (DO NOT BYPASS THIS STEP. You will need a clean oil filter to catch and store liquefied contaminants coming out of your engine).
STEP 2
Pour 12 full ounces of Auto-Rx® into your existing oil.
STEP 3
Drive 500 miles (750 miles if using synthetic oil; 1000 miles if using diesel engine).
STEP 4
Change the oil and oil filter.

Basic Procedure for Engines with More Than 100,000 miles

You will need two applications of Auto-Rx® for engines with more than 100,000 miles. Because of oil filter limitations, one new, clean filter will not hold liquefied contaminants generated by an engine with that many miles.

FIRST APPLICATION

STEP 1
Install new oil filter (DO NOT BYPASS THIS STEP. You will need a clean oil filter to catch and store liquefied contaminants coming out of your engine).
STEP 2
Pour full 12 ounces of Auto-Rx® into your existing oil.
STEP 3
Drive 500 miles (750 miles if using synthetic oil; 1000 miles if using diesel engine).
STEP 4
Change the oil and oil filter.
STEP 5
Drive your car an additional 1500 miles with just the new oil and filter.

SECOND APPLICATION

STEP 1
Add the second bottle of Auto-Rx®
STEP 2
Drive 500 miles (750 miles if using synthetic oil; 1000 miles if using diesel engine)
STEP 3
Change the oil and oil filter.

The application for high-mileage engines is done.

_____________________________________

As a footnote: I had a 1982 240D with over 220k miles. When I bought it (169k) the automatic transmission had multiple problems. I solved the obvious mechanical problems (vacuum and linkage), serviced it with new ATF and filter but it still operated poorly. Irregular shifting, varied cold to hot etc. I was resigned to having to do the transmission.

I decided I would try some "snake oil" as a last resort. *I knew that nothing would compensate for worn metal* but if something was crudded up or varnished, then why not.

I used one can of the Auto-Rx® Transmission Medic and the difference was impressive. I had been told repeatedly that I just had to settle repairing the trans. When I sold the car miles later, it shifter perfectly.

Haasman
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  #43  
Old 05-06-2003, 11:16 PM
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Location: oakland ca usa
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Sticky Lifters

A trick that a elderly but very good mechanic taught me years ago is to put diesel fuel in the oil and let it run at idle for awhile then change the oil and filter.The diesel fuel works as a cleaner and does a good job of removing sludge deposits and varnish.Maybe this will work for you other than dissasembling to replace the lifters that bleed down too quickly.

Phillip
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  #44  
Old 05-07-2003, 01:00 PM
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Location: West Linn, Or
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Question Uh, would that be "wild" Samlon or...

..."farmed" Samlon you don't put catsup (or "Ketchup", if you prefer) on?

You can call it snakeoil if you wish: definitely don't use it if you don't believe it works. 100% your choice.

It would seem that others don't necessarily agree, mostly those for whom it has worked. There are certainly ongoing debates about whether an engine that has been run on 100% synthetic for years even needs to be cleaner than it already is... probably.

Debate is good.

The fact remains that many have seen this product work with their own eyes, felt the material loosened and trapped by the oil filter with their own little fingers, and enjoy the benefits (presumed?) of having a cleaner engine. Some have seen elusive seal leaks go away, there is a substantial history of oil analysis, before, during & after.

Don't buy any if you don't think you need it. Don't try any if you don't think it works.
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  #45  
Old 05-07-2003, 01:24 PM
jsmith's Avatar
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: At Sea
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the auto-rx inventor "Frank" emailed me that i could leave in the auto-rx for 1000 miles since i just did an oil change with a fresh filter.

btw, note that for many MB's you will need more than a bottle since it only treats 5 quarts.
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