My car sat forever, and all I did is just pop off the drain plug and just let it sit for a while. Even though it is not warm, all of the oil is in the pan, so it will come out...ya just can't be in a hurry. I also took the lower pan off...not for reason of draining oil, but I'm sure it helped a little. Then throw some new oil in there and disconnect the ignition and let it crank a little bit to get oil up in the motor before actually starting it.

What kind of cleaner are you going to use?

__________________
'86 420SE Euro
904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."

(These threads are backwards, daddiojiggy is the originator)

__________________
'86 420SE Euro
904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."

the cleaner is a lubmoly product(i don't have it in front of me but i think it just says engine cleaner)how do you disconnect the ignition and how hard is it?

__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)

Man, these threads are all jumbled up. Which car exactly are you talking about? The 95 S500? I couldn't tell you for sure on those, since the M119 engines are worlds apart from M116s. On mine, I just simply disconnected the coil wire leading from the coil to the distributor. Judging by the DIY page on this website, 1995 M119s have a distributor setup, although there are two. There has to be a wire going from each distributor to a coil. If you disconnect that wire, at either end, your ignition will be disabled.

The cleaner I am going to use in mine is a LubroMoly product too. Let me know what you think when you get done using it.

__________________
'86 420SE Euro
904 Midnight Blue, Gray Velour
Dad bought it new, now I own it.

"A Mercedes-Benz is like a fine wine, it only gets better with age."

okay,since i unknowingly put my love into hibernation for what turned out to be 7-8 months i'll be turning it over soon.as isaid it was an unexpected slumber and so it has the old oil in it now i want to change the oil first but i want to warm it up and so i'd like any info on how to prime the system without turning the engine over and get oil through the system prior to running a cleaner in the engine.any ideas?

__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)

Whenever a car goes into short term storage (and I'm assuming inside storage), the oil and filter should be changed just prior to storage. Fresh oil in the pan will last indefinitely, so there is no need to change when you bring it out of storage, BUT the clock runs on antifreeze and brake fluid while in storage, so be aware if these fluids should be changed prior to storage if they will expire soon. When the car is brought out of storage, the oil can be run for the full time or mileage change interval.

It's best to remove the battery and charge it monthly or leave a Battery Tender on it. Also, fill the tires to at or near the maximum cold pressure placarded on the tires or at least 35 psi, and fill the fuel tank to capacity. This minimizes the vapor dome volume at the top, which will minimize any moisture condensation in the tank.

To remove from storage, do a visual inspection to look for any fluid leaks or other signs of a problem, install a freshly charged battery, and start it up. Modern FI engines will start quickly after a few cranks - more like letting the car sit a couple of days than several months or a year.

The biggest potential for damage in storage is rodents, so place traps/poison under the car, in the engine compartment, interior, and even trunk. Guys don't want to believe this, but it's true!!!

I've been storing/swapping my 190E 2.6 (winter car) with my '91 MR2 (summer car) for about ten years now, and neither car has any issues related to storage. Storage preparation pays off, but, unfortunately, most guys just "park" their car and call it storage without any prep, and that will lead to problems.

In your case, where the car was inadavertetly stored with dirty oil, I would recommend starting it, and then changing the oil after it completely warms up. In particular, you don't want to change the filter prior to start up as it will take several seconds to fill, which increases time for oil to reach the bearings.

Duke

Ditto on what Duke wrote.

I just got my '69 Cadillac out from 6 months of winter storage, last Friday. Started on the second crank. Topped off the tank, added fuel stabilizer, over-inflated the tires to 50 psi and changed the oil prior to storage. Fortuantely it's stored in a rodent free shop, which is really quite rare. They can be more of a costly nuisance than stale fuel!

I used to "fog" the motor with Rislone, but didn't with this car, so no need to change the oil this summer.

duke your views are exactly the wat i see it as well.as i said ,it was unexpected storage and so nothing got done.my concerns to priming the engine are just that.iwant to dump the oil as quick as possible,yet i want to bring it up to temp first.now the car is the 95 s500 and i can't be sure which is the coil wire and the aldata site is down this weekend for 'updates'.can anybody tell me where to look and what exactly to pull?thanks,again!

__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)

Ain't no such thing! My MR2 is currently stored in a small industrial shop out in Orange County. I rent a space from a car guy friend who has several cars stored there. There is nothing else in the space but stored cars. My buddy laughed as I placed traps inside each tire and poison "mouse bars" in the engine compartment, interior and trunk. He went on about how there were no people, food, etc. etc. to attract mice and there were cats around the complex.

We went out there in February to check things out, and what did I find - yep, a dead mouse in one of the traps. My buddy got religion and went out to buy traps to place in his other nearby building where he has a bunch of other cars stored.

Duke

Don't worry about it. Just charge the battery, do a visual check of the fluids and tire pressure, then do a normal cold start, which is just turn the key. I've seen engines come apart that have been sitting for years and there was still lots of oil in the bearings and valvegear - more than enough to provide the normal boundary lubrication before oil pressure builds up enough to feed oil to the bearings. As the engine starts up monitor the oil pressure gage and figure maybe two to three seconds before it rises.

Drive the car enough to thoroughly warm up, then change the oil and filter.

Duke

had to change batteries as one in car was dead-should this happen after 6 mos of no activity?anyway, changed battery and she started right up and oil pressure went to top right away!tommorrow we ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)

Modern cars have a continuous current draw of about 20-50 milliamps to run the clock, keep the volatile memory refreshed, and miscellaneous leak currents.

Even a good fully charged battery may not crank the engine after over three weeks, and starting the engine with the battery significantly discharged many times will kill the battery in short order.

Whenever a car is stored the battery should either be diconnected/removed and charged monthly, or a battery tender should be connected to the battery during storage.

Duke