Urgent Self Levelling Help required!!!
 

Urgently need some instructions on the self levelling on my 1986 W201 2.3-16v (not ASD)

I've replaced all the rear suspension - shocks, springs, 5 link arms etc...

Reassembled and I need to refill and bleed the self levelling at the back.

The pipework, spheres, and distribution/actuator block are empty. The shocks have what they came with from M-B.

Whats the best way to refill the system? Do I just turn the engine on and keep topping up the fluid? It will be done with the car in the air, shocks fully extended, and Anti roll bar not linked to the wishbones (to allow easy movement of the SLS bar)

Does the system bleed itself? or do I need to do it manually?

Please help, as I don't want to knacker £600 worth of new shock absorbers. I did a search, but couldn't find anything specific to this task.

Thanks in advance

Dunk

Anyone?!?!?

Please!!!

Bleeding is not needed
 

I had the same questions when I was to replace mine. But STEVE*** told me not to worry about it.
I replaced a pair of shocks, and the accumulators (spheres) then just top the resevor with fluid. I also jumped on the back bumper up and down for a few minutes, then took it for a hard country road with lots of bumps. It works great right now. I wish, I had them replaced long ago.
If you need to adjust the height of the back, I suggest you should wait a few days.
Have fun and don't worry.

it self bleeds, I changed my balls and it works fine, don't be conned into changing for spax or simular "std" rear conversions.

How come they are self-bleed? I faced so many self-leveling problems in many cars and they all didn't get fixed until I bleeded them manually!

Pray tell, how did you do it?

The way the manual says to bleed them is basically:
> Put rear wheels up on sturdy ramps.
> Top up the fluid reservoir.
> Start the car.
> Get underneath the back
> Connect a small hose to the bleed screw on the SLS valve, and open it slightly until air stops coming out.
> Tighten bleed screw and disconnect the hose - check for leaks.
> Disconnect the pull rod from the valve and work it so that the back of the car goes up and down several times (be careful it doesn't come down on you).
> Reconnect the pull rod and check the sway bar links - replacing anything that is loose or broken.

To verify everything is working, you are supposed to put weight in the back then remove it - verify that the level remains constant.