300E stalling right after starting, then will start right up again - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Duke2.6 · #16 05-16-2003, 12:44 AM

It's the nature of the beast! If you're an ace fuel systems engineer with intimate knowledge of the KE hydraulics and electronics, you might be able to come up with a design change to fix the "problem". In the meantime give it a little throttle just as it fires up, and it probably won't stall. Humans can reason; machines can't, so it's up to us to adapt to their idiosycracies or find another machine that suits us better.

Duke

richard28 · #17 05-16-2003, 10:27 AM

My 91 300e started like a top every time, except that after I had the fuel distributor replaced, it developed this same "have to start twice" problem. Any connection between the repair/set up adjustments the repair shop made & this problem we all experience?

jalmush · #18 05-13-2007, 04:28 AM

I've similar problem with my 260E 88
Jim

Quote:

Originally Posted by WANT '71 280SEL

My father's '87 300E will about 9 out 10 times die as soon as started. It stalls almost as soon as it is started. After it stalls it will start right up like nothing happened. If you give it gas when first starting it, it will start fine (minus the higher revs). I have already cleaned the idle control valve although it did not look dirty at all. Are you suppose to be able to tell by just looking in the inside of it? It use to surge at lights but I believe that was fixed when I did the idle control valve. I have done searches on the sbject and they normally point to an OVR valve when there is stalling involved. But, their stalling is normally when driving though. Pleae help as I would appreciate any help I could get on this matter. It is very annoying to either hold the gas or restart it everytime.
Thanks
David

P.S.
This happens when the temp or engine is either cold or hot.

brewtoo · #19 05-13-2007, 08:00 AM

I had an '86 300E that did this.

The problem was the fuel pump relay. It would not run the pump to pressurize the system the first time I turned the key.

hispassion · #20 04-23-2008, 10:14 PM

Seems this thread may have died, but I too was having the same issue. I have a 1992 300CE with an M104 engine. It would start and stall almost immediately. Then on a restart, it would stumble for a bit and then clear out and run smooth.

From another post I read (on here) someone said they took their MB to a dealer and had them do a fuel pressure leak down test. After some time, they determined it was the injectors. So, deducing that, along with using my experience, I thought I'd try replacing my injectors.

I confirmed this as the fix even before I had completed the repair. Each of the six injectors were wet with gasoline, indicating to me they were leaking down. When the repair was completed, she started hard, but this is because I had the fuel system open and depressurized. Upon the next start and every start since, it has been doing just fine. I do however wonder if there might be a reason for all the old injectors to be leaking. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge, so I don't know if there's something else or not wrong. For now, it starts and runs great.

I also changed the fuel filter at the same time.

Michael B.

Tims450SL · #21 08-26-2008, 01:50 AM

add me to the list of mystery owners...I know enough about what may be a problem, and just am not a gambler...mine starts everytime, will run like new until she heats up, and then I get the lack of power, bogging and unless i mash the accellerator then she kicks back like either the ignition just decided to work, or i switched a light switch on. My OVP has 2 red fuses, and they were ok
I shook it and it feels like something inside is loose. It also had lite green corrosion around the corner plug, which I cleaned and stuck it back in. It has to be some thing easy and minor, as she runs good when started just like new...so- A. Is the Fuel pump going out? Does anyone know if that is a normal sympton? B. Is the OVP bad cause the thing has something inside that rattles like a broken light bulb? C. Is the Coil bad? Can someone tell me if the Coil can be tested? D. Could the simplest thing such as a bad fuel filter cause this insane maddness? I have checked all fuses, and the gas is good in the car. Now I just remembered that the person I bought the car from replaced the ignition swith (where the key goes to start it) is there something that could be wrong there? I also noticed someone mention Security system....Jesus...why is this such a difficult car? I locked all three doors inside the car, and left the drivers door open. Could a Key be needed to do something with the security system> Or should I just shoot myself? All replies and help is greatly appreciated...I feel like a major award is needed to whom ever can figure this out ...

gsxr · #22 08-26-2008, 09:39 AM

For starters, the security system has nothing to do with the engine... it's just a factory alarm, connected to the central locking system. You can easily disable the alarm if it's acting up.

The OVP, if acting up, will typically make the ABS idiot light appear on the dash. I thought someone mentioned a fuel pump relay on these cars, but it's been a while, so I'm not sure. The OVP is definitely suspect though.

It sounds like the car runs ok when the mixture is rich, due to the cold-start injector. I'd start by cleaning & testing the idle air valve, and if that doesn't work, I'd richen the mixture by tweaking the EHA (requires pulling the EHA, removing a screw, turning a tiny Allen socket head, and re-assembling). That helped my old 300E quite a bit. You then need to adjust the idle mixture afterwards. All of this is a real PITA. Search the forum, I believe there are threads with more detail. I haven't owned a 300E in a while so I can't offer much more help than what I wrote above... I have also forgotten details about the idle air & EHA, so I can't explain the procedures either (sorry!).

BTW, I'm assuming you have good spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc...

Tims450SL · #23 08-26-2008, 10:55 AM

C P S Crankshaft Position Sensor $154.00 At rear of engine on top of transmission.

lkchris · #24 08-26-2008, 01:28 PM

If the problem occurs when the motor is warm, the problem is likely leaking fuel injectors. That is, the motor is flooded. Since they're 20 years old and worn out, it's a good idea to change them, because the problem probably isn't lack of fuel pressure.

Mike Freeman · #25 08-26-2008, 01:34 PM

Are you using primium gasoline?If so switch to regular grade. There are a lot of things that can cause this complaint but grade of fuel is easiest to fix.
Mike