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  #1  
Old 05-14-2003, 04:11 AM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
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M103 cylinder head removal pictures anyone?

I'm in the process of removing the cylinder head of my 91 300SE. I haven't gotten very far because I can't remove the distributor rotor driver.

If anyone wants specific pictures of the M103 as it comes apart or goes back together (hopefully), please let me know.

Much as I'd like to document the process, I don't have time to remove my gloves to take a picture of every step. Maybe if I wrap my camera in celophane...

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD ... any takers at $1100?
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  #2  
Old 05-14-2003, 04:40 AM
MikeTangas's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: So. Cal
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Re: M103 cylinder head removal pictures anyone?

Quote:
Originally posted by sixto
Much as I'd like to document the process, I don't have time to remove my gloves to take a picture of every step. Maybe if I wrap my camera in celophane...
That is why you buy a cheapo digital, like the Sony P20 I use. That way it's ok if it gets a little dirty once and a while. With a 32meg memory stick you can fit upwards of 600 pictures on it too.
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  #3  
Old 05-14-2003, 10:41 AM
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Mike:
Sorry to get off topic, how much does the P20 cost?

Gilly
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  #4  
Old 05-14-2003, 02:10 PM
MikeTangas's Avatar
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I picked mine up at WalMart for about $150. Granted it is only 1.3 megapixel, but it takes decent shots for my needs. The camera comes with a 4 meg memory stick, I purchased the 32 meg stick for an additional $40 or so once i figured the camera out.
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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.
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  #5  
Old 05-14-2003, 04:53 PM
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Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 356
Hi Sixto,

I would love to take you up on your offer and get my hands on these photos you are in the process of shooting.
You might remember, I have an 87 300SE myself - so these photos will be put to good use sometime (I hope not too soon..). Like others on this forum I learn from the "photographed articles" the most.
Actually after studying Thomaspin's great photo files, my plan for tomorrow morning is to go after the front rotors and brake pads and replace them.I've done the pads before but it took a couple passes on the photos - to be ready for the bearings...

good luck with the Cylinder Head.
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  #6  
Old 05-14-2003, 05:48 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Location: SF Bay Area
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I'm not offering to take pictures of the whole job. That'll double the time it takes to finish. If there are particular views you'd like, let me know and I'll take the pictures you want.

Sixto
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD ... any takers at $1100?
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  #7  
Old 05-15-2003, 04:05 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 627
I have done that job

I did the head on our 300TE a few years ago. Unfortunately I did not think to take pictures.

I too struck a problem with the drive for the distributor rotor. Tread very carefully here. The screw is in a deep recess and requires a Torx driver. The problem I had was that someone before me had slightly damaged the screw and the Torx driver would not remain seated in the head of the screw. Fearing further damage, I made up a clamp plate that held the Torx driver bit firmly pressed into the screw head. I was then able to use a spanner (wrench) on the Torx driver bit to apply the surprisingly subtantial torque it needed to loosen it. So much torque that it twisted the Torx driver bit. The next surprise was when my local dealer (and other MB parts suppliers) could not supply a replacement screw. Their part number was for a hex headed screw of a different diameter. I believe the earlier M103s may have had this. The Torx screw from memory was a strange size (possibly M7). My solution in the end was to source a high tensile screw of the correct diameter and length but with a hex head. I then used a thin walled hex socket to fasten the screw. I have added that socket to my collection of special tools. With the hex head I should never have this problem again.

Good luck with the job you have ahead of you. If it helps to reassure you, I don't recall encountering any other problems doing the job. One tip that was suggested to me at the time was to leave the inlet manifold and all the associated injection system in place in the engine bay (attached to the engine block with the steady brace) rather than removing it all as suggested in the shop manual. This saves considerable disassembly and reassembly work. It is not difficult to lift the head off the block and away from the inlet manifold at the same time. On reassembly ensure that the inlet manifold gasket and head gasket remain located on the dowel pins as you position the head back onto the block.

The only other aspect that was new to me was the terrible feeling the head bolts give as you torque them. They are stretch bolts (check their length before re-use) which are torqued in three stages, initially with a torque wrench and then by two additional 90 degree turns from memory. During these final stages the bolts stretch and feel as though either they are about to break or you have stripped them. It is not a nice feeling and if you are unaware of what is happening you would be tempted to pull it all apart again.
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