thanks for O2 sensor advise !!
 

I have apparently successfully changed out my 89 300E's O2 sensor for a Bosch #13953 which was obtained locally for 41.99 + tax. This unit is a Bosch made for a 90' "302" Ford Mustang. Seems to function fine after I soldered on a salvage yard connector, from a wrecked Ford, which cost me an additional $5.00 . You could of course just cut off the Ford end connector (of the new part) and solder on the connectors (2) from your old MB O2 sensor. Making this additional adapter wire (with Ford on one end and MB on the other) will allow me future O2 sensor replacements with no soldering needed, and I could go back to a "branded" MB part if I wanted to.

THANKS, to all posters on this board and others who like to share their MB knowledge.

I'm hoping for improved mileage----Time will tell, my old city only was 19-20, Highway 20-21. That was not too bad I guess but I had driven the car 3 years and 65000 miles (now at 194,250) so figured it was due for a replacement although the light was not on and had no problems yet.

DanielW

P.S. For any who had noticed my posts earlier about the serpt. belt tensioner adjustment (the idea that an old tensioner with a new belt should not be tightened the full "sweep" of the pointer)
(do a search on my Handle, DanielW or belt tensioner)
---- My tensioner is STILL doing great and no belt slipping problems after about 8 months and 20000 miles.

great advise!!
 

i'll try to remember that connector idea.how did you know that the ford o2 sensor would work?

I would advise against any added connections, I might even suggest soldering on the sensor. The voltage from the sensor varies in the .1 to 1.0v range. Corrosion in a connector makes for a poor reading really easy in that voltage range. The fewer connections the better.

Thanks for the solder it on advice
 

I have watched your posts and have appreciated the carefull advice you always give. I only wish I lived near to your shop so I could use your shop when I get in over my ability.

I arranged the O2 connectors lengths so that they both could be inside the car under the floor mat, where the MB factory connector was previously, even tho the Ford connector was an "O" ringed one which lived exposed to the elements in the Mustang. If I have any problems or doubts about the setup I will try your suggestion to "solder" the connections.

Daddiojiggy, I had read that the Ford (Bosch made) O2's would work correctly.... on this forum and on other forums as well. That's why I was thanking members here !! Saved me about $140.00 on this one tinkering. Advise also gave me the confidence to do my own transmission filter and fluid change and a water pump earlier... saved a bundle !
Incidentally the tran. fluid change ( to high mileage Valvoline Dextron ) has dramatically slowed an input seal leak to the point that I'll just drive it for the time being whereas I was ready to hire a rebuilt tran. put in... more saving realized.
Knowledge truly IS power.

DanielW

Sorry, I'm on a roll and thought of something else
 

I just remembered something else that I have discovered on my own which I think I shared with other forum members?

89 300E AC-heater blower motor stopped after several months of some minor noise. This replacement is a several hour labor bill (read expensive) and the motor is high $$ too. Anyway--what I tried was moly assembly lube diluted with laquer thinner and the binding motor shaft became easy to spin again. Also I replaced the motor brushes with a larger set that a sanded down to correct size --- Cost $2 for the brush set at a local auto electric shop. I didn't think to inquire what the brushes were originally designed to fit ?? I posted some more details if anyone cares to do a search on "blower motor" it should come up. Blower is still doing fine and very quiet several months later. Saved several hundred on that job.... and it actually was not too bad, just don't force any of the trim pieces or the wiper assembly.

Luck to you , DanielW