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  #16  
Old 05-18-2003, 04:25 PM
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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How many miles are on the engine?

What kind of spark plugs did you buy? Are they platinum or copper?

When you do the starter fluid test, you need to operate the throttle body as well as the air meter flap. This is why I told you go get someone in the car and actuate the gas petal while the engine is cranking. The air meter flap is seperate from the throttle body. You can open the air meter flap but there is still another valve blocking the starter fluid from getting to the engine. YOU NEED TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY!!!

When you changed the wires, are you sure you hooked them up to the correct terminals on the distributor?
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  #17  
Old 05-18-2003, 06:18 PM
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Location: Easter Long Island, NY
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Maddog,
137,000 miles
copper spark plugs WR8DCW
BOSH rotor, cap, wires.

and yes I had someone actuating the gas pedal while the air meter flap was opened and used starter fluid to try to start.

Checked the wires again to see if connected them in write order. I changed it one at time. And it reads like this.


on distributor cap going clockwise 1,5,4,8,6,3,7,2.
On engine block
driver side from front to back 5,6,7,8
passenger side going from front to back 1,2,3,4. Is this the right firing order?
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Satkhalsa

looking for SL Convertible/240 D/300 TD
420 SEL 1986
300 D 1978
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  #18  
Old 05-18-2003, 06:34 PM
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That is the right firing order, but you need to make sure that the distributor is going to fire at TDC on the compression stroke on the particular cylinder. All of your plugs could easily be off by terminal on the distrubutor. Before we go there though, lets check something else.

Remove a fuel injector from the intake manifold. You should probably disconnect the fuel line first. Once you have the fuel injector out, hook it back up to fuel line and put it in a bucket or something to catch fuel. Crank the engine so that you can verify that fuel is getting to the injectors. If fuel is getting to the injectors then your problem is going to be ignition.
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  #19  
Old 05-18-2003, 07:49 PM
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Maddog,

I took the line off one of the injectors and I dont have the allen key to take the injector off.
With the line off I had someone crank the engine and no gas comes out off the injector line.

when I pump the air meter flap gas rushes out off the line while we are cranking the engine.

Why does gas only comes out of the injector lines when the air meter flap is being pumped and not whet it is shut?

when I took the fuel distributor off their was a black round O rubber ring which was broken and fell off. I put the fuel distributor back without it. Awaiting for this ring from parts supply house.

The plunger was stuck so took it apart and sprayed wd 40. working fine and put it back.
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looking for SL Convertible/240 D/300 TD
420 SEL 1986
300 D 1978
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  #20  
Old 05-18-2003, 09:04 PM
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The air meter tells the fuel distributor how much fuel to meter for the engine. Fuel should come out without pumping the air meter arm. Fuel should come out when the airmeter arm is lowered.

Take the fuel line off of the cold start injector. Do the same test but do not lower the airmeter arm.

Your mixture may be so far lean that the car won't start. You also may have a bad EHA valve. Make sure all of the electrical cables are plugged in!
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  #21  
Old 05-18-2003, 10:11 PM
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Do I sense we are going in circles?
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Continental Imports
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33 years MB technician
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  #22  
Old 05-18-2003, 10:52 PM
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How do I check compression and how do I check EHA valve and where is it located.

I still don't understand why the air meter flap doesn't go down by itself when I crank. And why the injector lines do not get any fuel when I crank unless I push down on the air meter flat.

Whats the working sequence of distributor, fuel distributor and air meter.

Please educate me...
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looking for SL Convertible/240 D/300 TD
420 SEL 1986
300 D 1978
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  #23  
Old 05-18-2003, 11:22 PM
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air pushes the airmeter flap down. Think about it, once the engine is running, there is low pressure behind the throttle body. When you open up the throttle body air is pulled into the intake of the engine. When air is pulled in, the air meter flap goes down. Get it?
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  #24  
Old 05-18-2003, 11:32 PM
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Steve,

I took out spark plug No. 1 and put my finger on the hole. Let someone crank the engine until I feel and hear the compression, the rotor is facing #5 when I feel the air coming out of the hole #1. Is this crude test enough to tell me there is compression and the timing is not off. Please advise..

Or am I going in circles....
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Satkhalsa

looking for SL Convertible/240 D/300 TD
420 SEL 1986
300 D 1978
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  #25  
Old 05-18-2003, 11:40 PM
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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WELL THANK GOD...PROGRESS

It sounds like you may have hooked up the wires to the distributor wrong. When the piston 1 is near TDC the rotor should be facing towards the terminal for cylinder 1. Your one off.
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  #26  
Old 05-19-2003, 12:21 AM
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Maddog

Could this also mean that when the ignition switch is turned off some time has elapsed and the rotor land on the next cylinder which is No. 5 in this case.

Because I did check the wires #5 piston is on the driver side and that where # 5 wire on cap is going to the 1st piston on the driver side from front to back...
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Satkhalsa

looking for SL Convertible/240 D/300 TD
420 SEL 1986
300 D 1978
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  #27  
Old 05-19-2003, 01:16 AM
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This is possible and entirely probable which is why you should turn the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft pully bolt so that you can control how fast the engine turns and therefore check it more accuratly.
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  #28  
Old 05-19-2003, 01:27 AM
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will do that tomorrow. If the timing is ok then what is next?

could it be that injectors are clogged. Because I saw only two plugs getting wet prior to changing the plugs.

Is it possible for the rest of the six injectors to be clogged all at the same time and this is what made the car stall in the first place while being driven 50 mile/ hr . Is this possible?
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looking for SL Convertible/240 D/300 TD
420 SEL 1986
300 D 1978
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  #29  
Old 05-19-2003, 01:30 AM
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It's on Steve now. I don't know any of the data for this car so I don't know how to tell you to check anything. You might want to just replace your EHA valve as a precaution. They tend to go bad. I doubt compression is your problem.
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  #30  
Old 05-19-2003, 09:05 AM
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Would you prefer some good advise on how to find a competent technician?

We are running in circles because we only have qualitative answers at best. That is except for one test: putting fuel into the intake. This is the simplest, most defining test that can be made with no tools or experience. it shouldn't be hard to produce a reliable answer.

You have done the test and the results tell us with a more than random chance that adding fuel won't make a difference.

And again we are talking EHA and plugged injectors? Our fuel test does not account for too much fuel (I mentioned somewhere a long the line). Before we get carried away, I would suggest removing the fuel pump relay and the spark plugs. Crank the engine over and view whether just air is coming from the cylinders. Replace the plugs making sure they are dry (new would be nice). Crank the car for ten seconds, once put back together. Now try the starter fluid. This is done to be sure that too much fuel is not the case. With thefuel pump relay pulled, even if the cold start injector leaks the fuel will be gone by the end of the cranking. At that point the starter fluid test should be conclusive on the major issue of fuel.

As to the fuel flow, mad has it right about the quantity of air determining how far the plate moves, EXCEPT, that one can place a finger on the plate and vary it as much as one wants (in the adding fuel direction). since I can not imagine fuel being the problem with the test you have done, I believe that mixture control can wait till after the problem is found.

BTW, if you wish to check compression start on the left side (5-8). The only way that compression will be bad is if the chain has jumped and in the over 300 I have fixed it always was that side.
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