No fuel out of the fuel distributor 420 seil - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

satkhalsa · #31 05-19-2003, 01:03 PM

Thanks Steve, I will try these tests next. Will post with results..

satkhalsa · #32 05-20-2003, 09:55 AM

ok Steve, the spark plugs look like they are drenched and I did pull out the fuel pump relay and let the plugs dry. Put it back in and it almost started. Whats next?

stevebfl · #33 05-20-2003, 10:55 AM

Now, leave the relay out and see if you can get it started with starter fluid. If it seems to about run you will have to find out how all the fuel is getting in the motor.

satkhalsa · #34 05-20-2003, 01:19 PM

While fuel pump relay disconnected try to start few times, then I took all the plugs out and #1, #2, #3 was dry and 4,5,6,7,8 were drenched. I did not add any fuel while cranking.

I am letting it dry again and see what happens . My question is how is the gas getting in there without the fuel pump pumping?

satkhalsa · #35 05-20-2003, 01:23 PM

When fuel pump relay was out and spark plugs were removed only seemed to be coming out out. I am letting the plugs get dry and start all over again.

Should there be gas going in there with fuel pump relay out?

satkhalsa · #36 05-20-2003, 01:38 PM

correction above, Only air seemed to be coming out when I crancked.

satkhalsa · #37 05-21-2003, 03:50 AM

Steve you are right about the left side there is no compression.
You had it figured right from the beginning. I guess I was in denile. I also did expect the timing chain but subconciously did not want to admit it.

I am afraid to ask, what's next? I think I am in deeep trouble. Need help....

stevebfl · #38 05-21-2003, 08:40 AM

Pull at least the left head and replace all the exhaust valves.

If the engine has more than 150k then I would advise doing both heads and renewing the valve guides. The labor to do one head is 18 hours, the labor to do both 26.

This is a real expensive job but if you are doing it there is only a small difference to updating a number of issues that eventually pop up: head gasket leaks from the left head and oil consumption through worn, hard to seal, valve guides are a couple that come to mind.

We do that job for around 2500-3000 depending on how many other things need updating like rocker arms for example. it would also include a new chain and rails in the top. I wouldn't worry about the bottom right rail unless the car had 250k or more (to change it requires removing the timing cover another 10+ hours labor.

satkhalsa · #39 05-21-2003, 10:07 AM

would I be able to do this myself? Need some input..

Maddog · #40 05-21-2003, 11:31 AM

I wouldn't do it unless you have done it before. It's a tough job, takes lots of time, and a lot of the work has to be taken off to a machine shop anyways.

satkhalsa · #41 05-21-2003, 11:43 AM

Not counting my time, what would be a reasonable estimate of cost to send it to machine shop to do the total motor rebuild. And is it worth it?

I would like the adventure of rebuilding a motor...

please advise...

stevebfl · #42 05-21-2003, 12:02 PM

Leave the motor alone, they are indestructable. Take the heads off and give them to a machine shop.

If you wish my honest opinion it would be to have a pro do it. Just as you had a major problem with something that we would have diagnosed in the parking lot before it was off the wrecker, you will experience similar judgement and decision situations in doing this work that the wrong turn will cost a fortune.

If you just really have been wanting a project have at it. I would be surprised if it doesn't take you a month with no significant failures.

satkhalsa · #43 05-21-2003, 12:13 PM

How much would you estimate the cost of giving the heads to machine shop?
After I am done with this project how much do you think it would cost me? I want to know it is worth fixing this car....

Thanks for your patience... I know how frustrating it can get to deal with someone not in your league.