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  #1  
Old 05-24-2003, 07:52 PM
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Undergoing major repair need help

1983 240D Automatic Transmission

First Thing first is it possible if the crankshaft was crack in half for it not to have done any damage to th rest of the engine. When you take the oil filler cap off the engine one can clearly see the crankshaft snapped in half. One mechanic said that I needed a new engine. Another said that if no damage had been done to the pistons or the rest of the engine then all that was needed is to replace the crankshaft.

Second is there anywhere I can get detailed instructions on taking the top half of the engine off to get to the crankshaft. The haynes manual only tells how to replace the crankshaft once the engine is out of the chassis.

Third has anyone done his before, if so can you tell me what to be aware of whle undertaking this challenge.

I have plenty of time to do this I have until the middle of August, so time is not a critical factor in this but i want to get started in the next few days, monday would be a good day to devote all day to this projet.

LoveLEE143@aol.com
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1983 240D Yellow
1989 300E Champigne
1993 190E Gray
1986 325 BMW Burgundy
1987 Chevy S10 Blazer
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  #2  
Old 05-24-2003, 08:15 PM
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If you can see the crankshaft through the oil cap you really got problems.

I'm guessin that the camshaft which is visible is broke, probably due to chain failure. It is amasing that because the valves are verticle that it is possible to drive one right through a camshaft without bending it. I have seen it enough that when we do this repair (not too often anymore as even with used parts its probably most of what the cars worth) we do a cylinder leakage test before we start. If the valves are bent and the chain busted its a bunch of work.
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  #3  
Old 05-24-2003, 10:17 PM
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How do I perform a cylinder leakage test
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1983 240D Yellow
1989 300E Champigne
1993 190E Gray
1986 325 BMW Burgundy
1987 Chevy S10 Blazer
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  #4  
Old 05-24-2003, 11:08 PM
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You remove the rocker arms, pull the glow plugs and screw in an adapter. For precise measurement you use a leakdown tool, for the purposes of this diagnosis all that is necessary is to pump air into the cylinder and see if it comes out the exhaust pipe or intake. Or in worse case out through the crankcase. That would happen if a valve went through a piston; rare but I have seen it at least once.
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  #5  
Old 05-25-2003, 04:16 PM
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I am having trouble finding a fittng to fit on my air compressor hose that is in a metric size to fit in the socket of the glow pug. Where might I find one or is there a way to self fabricate one.
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1989 300E Champigne
1993 190E Gray
1986 325 BMW Burgundy
1987 Chevy S10 Blazer
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  #6  
Old 05-25-2003, 05:54 PM
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Take a glow plug and knock the center out of it and weld the appropriate quickconnect to it.
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  #7  
Old 05-25-2003, 07:06 PM
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I had all but decided to just drill the inside of the glow plug out cut an old hose and attach it to the end of the glow plug. One more question, just to mke sure before I do some additional work today. I do have to take the crankshaft cover off to take the rocker arms out before I do this test.
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1989 300E Champigne
1993 190E Gray
1986 325 BMW Burgundy
1987 Chevy S10 Blazer
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  #8  
Old 05-25-2003, 07:19 PM
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To take the rocker arms off you must take the valve cover off. They come off 4 at a time.

The motor will try to turn when you add air. If its locked up that won't happen but any vavles in the open position will leak. So by removing the rockers the cylinder should be sealed.
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  #9  
Old 05-25-2003, 10:22 PM
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I have just taken the camshaft cover off of the engine. I have accompanied this message with photos of the engine. The timing chain is completely broken off. The camshaft itself is in three pieces broken between the first and second cam bearings. The chain tensioner, tensioner guide rail and the lower guide rails are also broken. The Connecting rod, which holds the camshaft is also broken from this picture without doing the leakdown test, does there appear to be any damage to the engine itself. I will perform the cylinder leakdown test probably tomorrow when I go by Grainger or Northern and get an adapter for the air hose. I have much larger pctures if anyone needs a better look
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1986 325 BMW Burgundy
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2003, 07:09 AM
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Eeek!

You have my sympathy - that looks like a BIG job.
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  #11  
Old 05-26-2003, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
does there appear to be any damage to the engine itself
- yep, you've got engine damage.

Heck, I would go ahead and pull the engine out. You are going to have to get to all the chain slide rails anyway and it will make it alot easier. Hope you don't have piston damage but I would not be too optimistic. The pistons will more than likely be the most expensive part of the whole rebuild. How many miles were on the car/chain? I would decide whether to rebuild or not based on the condition of the body/interior. Personally, I would not waste time with the test, just go ahead and pull the head to see what the pistons look like. Even if all you have to do is replace the cam and cam tower (not the cam connecting rod) it will be a pia to get another chain in there with the head on in my opinion.
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2003, 10:13 AM
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I have fixed that disaster at least ten times. That goes back a lot of years. The amazing part of it is that after a couple disassemblies with no internal damage I started to believe it never damaged the insides. As gory as that looks the fact that the Cam broke in two places is a good sign. Sort of like the kung foo guy who sticks his head through a pile of bricks.

The most amazing thing is that I have fixed at least two like that that I didn't even have to pull the injector pump. The chain bound up the crank and stopped it before the chain got off the pump gear. The area around the pump gear is made such that it can't jump a tooth. if the link between the crank and the timer gear is intact after the jam is removed the chain can be pulled up and another hooked to it and rolled through. The only thing about this fact is that there is no way to tell where #1 is. So you just put the Cam gear on and try it. If it don't work take it off and turn it 180 degrees (actually turn the crank 360degrees).

Numerous repairs with only cam, cam stands and chain (rails and such).

Unfortunately the last two I have done didn't work so well. They both had a single leaking valve which made the head have to come off anyway. It is so easy to leak check that we will now do it before heroics.
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  #13  
Old 05-26-2003, 01:43 PM
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You will want to pay attention to what Steve is telling you. Don't mind me - I'm just itching to pull an engine here lately. But if it were me I would pull the head just because, in my opinion, it is pretty easy on a 240D.
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2003, 05:41 PM
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Please tell me good news

I performed the cylinder leakdown test as explained. Starting with the cylinder closest to the timing chain as number one and working my way back. The air filter housing was removed and a plastic bag placed over the intake. When 100psi was blown into the cylinder the bag would fill with air. It was not an out burst of air but enough to see the bag fill. I could also hear air coming out from down where the timing chain is. The second one air also came out of the intake more than the first. The third air very slightly came out of the intake. While the fourth one no air came out of the intake but air did come out f the exhaust. It was enough that if you placed your hand two inches away from the exhaust pipe one could feel air come out but not in a gust of wind. What does this mean for me by this does this mean the pistons were damaged. Or was it just the camshaft and the other broken parts.
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1987 Chevy S10 Blazer
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  #15  
Old 05-26-2003, 05:45 PM
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It means Jim would have fixed it first (bg).

You have at least one valve (the exhaust) that won't make it through heroics. The head has to come off.
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