How do I replace Motor Mounts on a 300e?
 

Hi all,
The weekend project is replacing the motor mounts on my 300e. It needs this done desperately, and I have just received the mounts. However, what information I've found on replacing them is limited, I couldn't even find it on the service CD's. I know to jack up the block with a 2x12 under the pan, but, I really need information on what tools are required, torque specs on the top and bottom bolts, and a run down on any steps that might be important.
Thanks
Scott

I'll bump you up, but there is a lot of info on the board if you search. My experience may not be much use, because it's a W201, M102 - somewhat different mount too. I could access all except removing the bottom bolt from the top for R&R on the right, but on the left it was from the bottom. The top bolt on the left required a long extension and removing the airflow meter/fuel distributor for access. Tranny support was easy with the car up high enough to work underneath.

Steve

Hmm, does anyone have the torque specs?

well, upon closer inspection and finding that the passenger side bolt had no clearance between it and the cat, I am going to just leave this to my mechanic. I've no idea how to fit a darn torque wrench on that bolt, and if the driver's side is the hard one, I'm in trouble. Thanks anyways.

For offset torque-wrench access, I have used a crow's foot socket set. These are like an open-end wrench set with 3/8" socket holes in the stub-handles. Torque offset can be easily calculated, or sometimes that is unnecessary.

Steve

You could *probably* get by with just getting the bolts "tight." The torque specs aren't obscenely high, and some anti-seize and a good tug with a standard wrench should suffice. The problem isn't getting the bolts back on, of course, it's getting them off. ;)

-anthony

Torque specs are for critical mating surfaces like the cylinder head bolts and wheel hubs.

I use what I call "grunt" tightness for everything else...;)