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#1
05-25-2003, 12:43 PM
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How do I replace Motor Mounts on a 300e?
Hi all,
The weekend project is replacing the motor mounts on my 300e. It needs this done desperately, and I have just received the mounts. However, what information I've found on replacing them is limited, I couldn't even find it on the service CD's. I know to jack up the block with a 2x12 under the pan, but, I really need information on what tools are required, torque specs on the top and bottom bolts, and a run down on any steps that might be important. Thanks Scott
__________________
Scott 1987 300e - The 200,000 mile TurboTechnics rocketship. 
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#2
05-26-2003, 11:00 AM
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I'll bump you up, but there is a lot of info on the board if you search. My experience may not be much use, because it's a W201, M102 - somewhat different mount too. I could access all except removing the bottom bolt from the top for R&R on the right, but on the left it was from the bottom. The top bolt on the left required a long extension and removing the airflow meter/fuel distributor for access. Tranny support was easy with the car up high enough to work underneath.
Steve
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#3
05-26-2003, 11:52 AM
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#4
05-26-2003, 05:05 PM
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Hmm, does anyone have the torque specs?
__________________
Scott 1987 300e - The 200,000 mile TurboTechnics rocketship.
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#5
05-26-2003, 07:12 PM
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well, upon closer inspection and finding that the passenger side bolt had no clearance between it and the cat, I am going to just leave this to my mechanic. I've no idea how to fit a darn torque wrench on that bolt, and if the driver's side is the hard one, I'm in trouble. Thanks anyways.
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Scott 1987 300e - The 200,000 mile TurboTechnics rocketship.
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#6
05-27-2003, 10:00 AM
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For offset torque-wrench access, I have used a crow's foot socket set. These are like an open-end wrench set with 3/8" socket holes in the stub-handles. Torque offset can be easily calculated, or sometimes that is unnecessary.
Steve
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#7
05-27-2003, 11:56 PM
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You could *probably* get by with just getting the bolts "tight." The torque specs aren't obscenely high, and some anti-seize and a good tug with a standard wrench should suffice. The problem isn't getting the bolts back on, of course, it's getting them off.
 -anthony
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#8
05-28-2003, 11:09 AM
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Torque specs are for critical mating surfaces like the cylinder head bolts and wheel hubs.
I use what I call "grunt" tightness for everything else...
__________________
2009 ML350 (106K) - Family vehicle 2001 CLK430 Cabriolet (80K) - Wife's car 2005 BMW 645CI (138K) - My daily driver 2016 Mustang (32K) - Daughter's car
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