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  #1  
Old 05-29-2003, 11:59 PM
MWNe2
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Unhappy Water in Trunk

I have had a water problem for while . Trunk is moist and a little stanky. TOnight whilst washing the baby I found the leak. Its under neath the shelf where all the factory holes are located. Now what can I do about this??
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  #2  
Old 05-30-2003, 01:12 AM
haasman's Avatar
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Welcome for the ShopForum ....

Your post didn't say but your profile lists a 1987 560SEC. Is this the vehicle you are talking about? How many miles?

You stated: "Its under neath the shelf where all the factory holes are located"

Is this area inside the trunk?

Keep us posted,

Haasman
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2003, 02:10 AM
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The "holes" in the cross piece below the parcel shelf, visible from the trunk, are a MAJOR collection point for water entering from a leaking rear windshield seal. I will bet this is it.
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2003, 02:29 AM
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You probably have an old and leaking windshield rubber molding.

A good quick test of the gasket is to lift a flap. If it snaps back it is probably good. If it falls back slowly (anything other than snapping back) it is aged and will eventually start leaking.

If you decide to replace it - 1) Use a Mercedes only molding 2) Be very careful of the metal frame. You can remove it but there is a good chance it will get bent. You have to use a tool that helps you gently lift them out. They are soft aluminum. Only a slight angle at a time. They have a slight bulb at the bottom of where they are inserted into the rubber gasket. You have to lift this bulb section out of the rubber holding it. You do just a little at a time. NOT all the way out all at once.

If your windshield gasket is old and hard, just cut it out and replace it.

Reinstalling the window: Definitely put the gasket around the window, install the metal frame, lube with something like spray silicone both to insert the molding into the gasket and to help the gasket's rubber flap slide over the corresponding metal channel of the body of the car. Use a nylon rope, greater than 1/4", better 3/8" which is inserted all around the the deep channel in the rubber gasket and have it overlap at the bottom.

Insert this assembly into the car (from the outside) with the top into the metal channel first. Make sure the sides are aligned, push the top against and into the channel at the top first

Have a friend help by applying even and light to moderate pressure just to hold the glass against the metal body channel at the bottom. Nothing intense, just holding it down. Start pulling the rope and have the assistant *gently* slap the glass as you pull, going all the way around the glass. In this process you can adjust a little bit. If you are way off, start over.

To help the rubber flap of the gasket get over the metal channel of the body, you can use a *very* soft headed, rounded end, metal or plastic tool. You can buy cheap auto glass tools just about anywhere.

Major caution: Be sure you know where and how the rear window defogger lines attach to the rear glass. On some models they go through the rubber molding and can easily get pulled off of the glass .... read major bummer (gla$$ replacement)

I have done four windshields/back glass this way and each have worked out great. An old glassman showed me all this years ago.

Hope this helps,

Haasman
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'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2003, 09:08 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
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I didn't see it posted maybe I missed it but you probably have drain plugs in your trunk (visible as rubber one way rubber diaphragms that you might be able to stick a finger through if they are like a 190's), I would find them and make sure they were clear and draining properly. I know I had a bit of water in the trunk that should have been taken care of by this feature and was not because they were clogged with skankyness.

cdt
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  #6  
Old 05-30-2003, 09:50 AM
MWNe2
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RE:

Thanks Guys! YEs IT is the 560 sec and it has 159xxx miles on it. I just had a new (used) motor installed As far as the back glass I think I will just hae a glass specialist do it. That way if they mess up the rear defost wires.Well it will be on their dime. THe car is an absolute GAS to drive. MArk
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Old 05-30-2003, 07:04 PM
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Location: S. Texas
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I just had a rear glass installed in my 450slc. I removed it because of rust around the hole for the defroster wire.

The shop that installed it assured me that they knew how to do it. Well, they didn't. They slathered so much lubricant on the seal that now the metal trim won't stay in the slot. Without the trim not only does the window look bad but the upper corners don't follow the contour of the frame. They blame the fact that the trim doesn't stay on the fact that I bent it taking it out. The trim is so soft that it can easily be installed regardless of how bent it is. In fact the trim is not bent at all but of course they are looking for any excuse. I am going to take it back again but I doubt that they can fix it since they couldn't get it right the first time.

Your trick with the rope sounds like a great idea.
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  #8  
Old 05-30-2003, 09:04 PM
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kip

Please be sure to tell them that the metal framing goes into/on the rubber molding PRIOR to installing the whole assembly in the car.

Additionally, 1/4" nylon cord WILL cut the new rubber molding. It needs to be thicker than the 1/4".

There seems to be an art to installing these older window glass with the aluminum frames. There isn't anything wrong with lots of lube.

Often, installers who are not familiar with the rubber molding (depending on the car and model) will not see that there are small flaps that partially fit over the aluminum molding which facilitates its final seating. Try to find a car similiar to yours and look closely at the fitting.

Good luck, keep us posted,

Haasman
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'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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