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  #1  
Old 03-09-2000, 12:44 PM
JONLYDONLY
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Gentlemen,

I am about to replace the waterpump on my '86 300e.

I have replaced the tensioner, so I am familiar with the procedure to that point.

What is the best way to go about this and should I get any other pieces (ex.heater return line)that will be faulty or should be replaced during teardown?

Thanks in advance
JD

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  #2  
Old 03-09-2000, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: New Bedford, MA USA
Posts: 1,583
JD,
Here's one I really know about. Remove the tensioner, disconnect the HT lead from the coil, remove fan, fan shroud, remove serpentine belt, remove long bolts from PS pump and push it to the right out of the way. Remove upper radiator hose. Remove heater return line from the left side of the pump (Don't forget to replace that O-Ring). Just to be safe, remove the thermostat and check it. Depending on the miles, it might be a good idea to replace (Inexpensive insurance) it as well as the gasket (O-ring). Remove 4 capscrews holding pump to block. Clean mating suface on block. Reinstallation is pretty much the reverse of removal. Have a great time

------------------
Jeff L
1987 300e
1989 300e
1987 BMW 325

[This message has been edited by jeffsr (edited 03-09-2000).]
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2000, 07:12 PM
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Join Date: Apr 1999
Location: Walnut,CA,USA
Posts: 554
There is bypass hose between water pump and cylinder head part number is 103 200 00 82 also replace the o ring at rear cylinder head
heter hose connector,the o ring is same size as the heater pipe to water pump.check your belt tensioner shock too.
hope this help.

------------------
MB STARS Master Guild Technician,12 years MB tech
6 years independent shop owner
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2000, 09:04 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
There is a secret to doing these that not many people know. You can buy a special tool from Snap-On called the FLX-13. It will get to all 3 of the 13mm bolts without taking any other part loose. You can leave the tensioner and the P/S pump in place. There are two secrets to taking it off. 1. Take off the two clamps on the small by-pass hose and slice the hose off. 2. Take out the 13mm intake bolt that is under the front side. It will be the first intake manifold bolt you can see on the bottom front. The pump will then roll out. I can do one in under an hour start to finish when I feel up to it....This is with my $40,000 worth of tools though. (And shop air for air tools)

For the o-ring that goes in the bottom use a dab of grease to hold it in place then smear a little on the block where it will slide together. Never use a sealer where there is an o-ring. Same goes for the thermostat. Replace it tooo. We have the parts!!!!

------------------
Benzmac:
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM


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  #5  
Old 03-10-2000, 08:06 AM
LarryBible
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Benzmac,

I hope the Snap-On man sends you a Christmas card each year. If he doesn't you need to call a meeting with him.

Have a great day,
Larry Bible
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  #6  
Old 03-08-2003, 05:23 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: SF
Posts: 223
FLX-13

Hey folks, anyone know what an FLX-13 refered to in the previous posts? Cost? Thanks again........Scott
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  #7  
Old 03-08-2003, 09:54 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
FLX13 is a tool number (like the part number, if you want to think of it that way) for this flexible extension from Snap-On tools. I don't know if you'd be able to buy this online or not from Snap-On. They may tell you to buy it from the local Snap-On distributor. Check the white or yellow pages in the phone book for Snap-On tools. You'll probably have to set a time to meet them at a shop someplace, they usually have a regular route they keep. Price I am not sure of, I'd guess 20 to 30 dollars though. the price may be available online. I'm sure the website is probably www.snapon.com not sure though. Great tools, last forever and a lifetime warranty if they don't.

Gilly
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  #8  
Old 03-09-2003, 03:14 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: LEMONT-CHICAGO
Posts: 412
No need to purchase that tool. I used a 1/4 inch drive U-joint wrapped with electrical tape which allowed you to get at it at the proper angle. One of the most difficult fastener to remove is the top allen fastener where ther is only an inch and a half clearence. The tool wanted to "walk" out of the fastener head. I enventually got it buy using an allen socket held into the fastener head with much tensionwith a large screw driver and turning the exposed part of the allen socket with a box wrench. Good luck working space is limited.
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  #9  
Old 03-11-2003, 07:01 AM
LarryBible
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My brother in law is my tech at the MB dealership. He has only been doing MB's for a few years, so he hasn't seen a lot of the early 124's in there.

He said that the bottom bolts are Allens just like the top bolt. Is this true? He is a very good tech, but he has told me some things before about the early 300E that weren't exactly right. There again he admits he doesn't see many.

If they are hex bolts, I will buy the Snap On tool. It can be had online, and BTW, the exact part number is "FLXM13." I don't want to buy this tool only to find Allen bolts under there.

He was a diesel truck tech for about 25 years before going to the MB house. Yours truly is the one that got him onto MB's. After he bought a beautiful '86 300D, he started enjoying them so much he decided it might be worthwhile to work on something small.

He has an old non Snap On toolbox that is over 30 years old now, and looks terrible. They keep in a bay at the back of the shop because his toolbox is so old and ugly. But, when you open the drawers you find it packed with Snap On tools. I'm sure by todays prices there is something in the area of $40,000 worth.

In the course of this tour through the toolbox, he was showing me the handful of stuff that it takes to change all 12 spark plugs in my 203 C Class. I don't think I'm looking forward to that operation.

Have a great day,
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  #10  
Old 03-11-2003, 10:21 AM
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Location: So. Cal.
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Benzmac, have you ever changed a water pump on a 1990 300 CE ? I found it to be a bad news replacement. Almost impossible to get to the 2 rear pump bolts. But this is from a first timer. I'm curious how much of a problem this job is for a Tech???????? And I'm sure at a steep price..
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  #11  
Old 03-11-2003, 10:27 AM
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My pump had never been touched before per previous owner which I know very good, and it had 2 allen bolts top and bottom in front and 2 hex in the rear. Hope that is what your asking Larry Bible........
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1990 300CE
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  #12  
Old 03-11-2003, 10:37 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Plymouth, Devon, UK
Posts: 62
On my 1989 car it was four hex head 13mm.

The FLXM13 made it possible for me, although a good range of long, stubby ratchets and extension handles helped a great deal.

Just in case I was faced with allen bolts, I got some 1/4" drive allen keys and swivel end extension bars.

You can never have enough tools, but after 20 years of collecting it is finally getting easier

Good Luck, pace yourself and it is not too difficult a job.

Richard
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  #13  
Old 03-12-2003, 05:44 AM
LarryBible
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I'm not too worried about the job. I'm now convinced that the water pump is indeed the problem. Even if I don't get a FLXM13 in time and have to pull the power steering pump and tensioner out of the way, I'll manage.

I understand about collecting tools. I've been doing that for about 32 years. It started with buying out a guy that was quitting the truck shop and going back in the Navy. I bought a medium size MAC top and bottom box with enough tools for him to make his living with. End wrenches were a collection of whatever. Screwdrivers and impact sockets were Snap On and there were some other various Snap On tools in there. I gave him $250. I now have a much bigger rollaway and have never been hesitant to buy a tool that I needed, so I've collected quite a bit of stuff.

My combinations are Snap On that I bought in the seventies, my 3/8 ratchet is Snap On and there are various Snap Ons that I've bought for special reasons. There is also now a drawer full of special MB tools ranging from valve adjustment wrenches, pin pullers, injector socket, drip tube, head bolt sockets, etc., I also have plenty of air tools and impact sockets.

It is rare these days when I have to buy anything to get a job done, but I think I'm going to spring for the FLXM13 even though money is very tight right now.

Have a great day,
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  #14  
Old 03-12-2003, 06:02 AM
LarryBible
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I just went to the Snap On sight and they do not have the FLXM13 in stock for online purchase. I'm sure I won't be able to find one on a truck before I start the job, so I guess I'll just have to strip everything out of the way and do it the old fashioned way.

Have a great day,
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  #15  
Old 03-12-2003, 06:05 AM
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http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/search.asp?partno=FLXM13&search_type=Part&store=snapon-store

Regards,

Richard

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