Any last minute input on movovalve removal?

I've done the "search" on monovalve, mono valve, heater valve, 260E, 300E, and several combinations.

I read the great DIY article by Steve Brotherton. (which is troubleshooting but not removal procedures).

I've tried Google.

I'm looking for a paragraph or pictures on how to remove the monovalve (1988 260E for me, or 1989 300e for Benz300).

(Disconnecting the wire connector on top is obvious.)

My only questions are:
1. Do I clamp off the hoses or will fluid loss be minimal?
2. How do I remove the pointy rubber connectors that seem to hold the entire unit in place? Do they slide, stretch, pull, twist (or just eventually break??? -my greatest fear!)

Once I have guidance, or if I can figure it out alone, I'll take pix to post for others.

Thanks a lot,

Techie9

Nevermind
 

I figured it out.

1. To remove the monovalve, do I need to clamp off the hoses or will fluid loss be minimal?

*** Disconnected the wired connector. Loosened the hose clamps. Disconnected the hoses. With cold engine, I had no loss of coolant.

2. How do I remove the pointy rubber connectors that hold the entire monovalve component in place? (Pull, stretch, twist, snap... ??? I don't want to break them off.)

*** The rubber "pins" slid outward from the bottom u-shaped bracket, releasing the entire monovalve component. After removing from the car, I forced the rubber pins out of the unit by pulling the pins from underneath while using my thumbnail to force the rubber lip through the hole. Used a pair of channel locks to pull the rubber pins up through the holes in the new monovalve.

Techie9

Techie,
great Job, atleast someone has finally taken the time to post the DIY correctly. Let us know if this corrects your problem of the A/C. if so i will go ahead and do the same. You mentioned putting in the new monovalve. Where did you buy it and do you happen to have the part number ?
thanks.

Steve:

Gas refrigerators (still made in Evansville by Robur, who bought up the Servel patents in the 60s) work by absorbtion chilling, not expansion.

What happens is that ammonia and water, when mixed, absorb heat. Quite a bit of it, in fact, enough to drop the temp to well below freezing. The mixture stays liquid from the freezing point depression of water from the ammonia -- temp is something like -15 C.

In the chiller unit, the water is passively circulated by differential heat from the absorbtion section to the boiler, and the ammonia is separated by boiling it off. The ammonia is condensed from vapor in the condesor at the top of the rear of the fridge, and the water is cooled back down in the lower part of the heat exhanged, where it runs back into the absorbtion unit. Liquid ammonia drips into it from the condensor, and it cools off.

Requires about 1000 psi internal pressure for this to work, as I remember, always a problem and the major reason why you don't see ammonia chiller systems on cars. They would be very cheap to run, as the heat required is freely available in either the coolant or exhaust. No way to keep them from leaking out, and the ammonia is too toxic.

Peter

Benz300
 

Yeah, I'm hoping this fixes the problem too. If not, I'll try something else. You asked about the part? Here's how I ordered it:
1. Click on FastLane at the top of this page.
2. Click Online Catalog on the left of the page.
3. Click your year.
4. Click Mercedes-Benz.
5. Click your model.
6. Click Climate Control.
7. Click ACC Mono Valve.
8. Buy it. For my year and model, the part number is R3022-32577 and the price is $92.09. It arrived in a few days. I've purchased several things this way and never had any problems.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Techie9

Did this fix the problem?
Thanks
David

Possibly...
 

David,

That post is a year old and my memory may have faded, but luckily so has my original A/C problem. I did nothing else other than replace the monovalve and my A/C is still working today. Last year it would occassionally quit cooling and start blowing warm, humid air while I was driving (this happened both before AND after replaing the monovalve) but all I had to do was pull over somewhere, turn the car off, start the car again, and the A/C "reset" and worked immediately again. I lived with it. This year, so far, it works even better and it hasn't quit while driving. I can't explain it, I'm just telling it like it is. I guess what I'm saying is that the"fix" may have been coincidental. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

Does your auxilary waterpump still work? If it doesn't, unplug it. I unplugged my dad's malfunctioning pump and it hasn't done it today when I've traveled 100 miles so far and still blows cold. Might be something to look into.
Thanks
David

I am having the same problem as Techie9 is discribing with my 1992 300 turbo diesel.. occasionally the ac will work fine and then blow hot stale air out..
refridgerant <r-12> is where it shuld be...

could this be my monovalve as well???

thanks!!

It could be a loose belt...
 

The ACC has a safety feature which will disconnect the compressor when a slippage in the bvelt is detected. Look for grease, oil, water in the belt and course how tight (or loose) the belt is.

Photos are always nice:

http://www.kite.com/kite/w126/