Hi all,

Both rear exterior door handles on my '95 S420 have come away from the body of the car. The driver's side one was like that when I got the car, but it was still possible to open the door using it.
The handle on the other side "broke" today while someone was opening the door, and it now won't open the door. The door does open from inside.
Couple of questions: Anyone else aware of this problem? And, is it possible to just tighten a few screws to fix it?

James

Hope this helps. This is for a '97 S420. Should be the same. Got this from Alldata.


Rear Door Replacement of Exterior Door Handle on Rear Door

Door sealing frame
pull out of channel in area of door lock.
Screw (1)
screw out while pressing door handle toward front. Do not remove screw (1); it is secured against falling by a retaining washer.
Door handle (2) with base (3)
move toward front and remove.
Observe installation note!
Door handle (2) with base (3)
install so that actuating lever (arrow) on door handle (4) engages in door lock.
Screw (1)
screw in (6 Nm ).
Door sealing frame
press into channel in area of door lock.

Installation note

Adjust position of door handle on door panelling with screw (5) (Allen wrench WAF 3mm )

Removal, installation

1 Pull door sealing frame out of channel in area of door lock.
2 Screw out screw (arrow) while simultaneously pressing door handle toward front.

NOTE: Do not remove screw, it is secured against falling by a retaining washer.

3 Move door handle toward front out of hinge strap and door lock.
Observe installation note!

4 Install door handle with base so that actuating lever on door handle engages in door lock (arrow).

5 Screw in screw (6 Nm ).
6 Install door sealing frame.
7 Check for proper function.[IMG]img[/IMG] [IMG]/IMG[/IMG]

here is a pic

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HPF,

Thanks a lot for the info.

Did you have this happen to you?

James

No, I have not had this happen to me. Sounds like it might be the screw loosened up in your handles. I hope it's that simple and not a broken part.

Good Luck!

James,

You might already know about this, but just in case you don't. The oil tubes can cause a lack of oil to the cams which will result in a ticking sound. The MB dealer said that the tube have been upgraded. It is a simple DIY job that I my self plan on doing soon. Here is a great link to this fix. Tick, tick fixed tnx to Donnie!

How many miles do you have on your S420? They are a sweet ride.

Tom

Tom,

Good news. Followed your suggestions, and removed both handles. They just pop out without having to remove the inner door panels - thank goodness !!
It appears that somehow the retaining screws had worked loose. I simply replaced the screws, and everything is just fine.
I also subscribed to Alldata, which is a great source of DIY info. Once again many thanks.

I have about 80k miles on the "Bus" - as my girlfriend calls it [she considers it to be quite big, although I don't think so].
Have had it for about 3 years now. Black with beige interior.
Really good-looking car, beautiful lines. I really much prefer this model to the newer ones.
I do most of the simple work on it myself, and have found a great independent shop to do all the code-related stuff.

Main problems I have had included an overheating episode which blew the head gaskets, and the obligatory wire harness replacement. The overheating was thought to be due to a blocked thermostat.
What sort of temperatures do you normally run at? Here in Fla I am at approx 80 - 90 degs on the highway, and in heavy traffic, it goes up to about 105 -110, with the big fans wailing away. I am sort of paranoid about the temperature now.

Thanks for the heads-up on the oil tubes. Let me know how it went when you get round to doing it.

I will post a pic next time.

James

Here is a link to a website with several modifications that might benefit your cars operating temperature. Actually this is a great website which is on my favorite list for many reasons.

http://pages.prodigy.net/jforgione/MB_S500.html

HJAMES608> I can tell you that the cool harness as refered by "mr. Goodwrench" is something you will want to install. I live out in Asia and with the cool harness, my car operate at 90 all the time. When I go up-hill, reving the car, it shoots to 100 and comes down as soon as i stop reving.

Also check the fan clutch, not the aux. fans. it dows wear and mine was replaced even at 50k kilometers. This did a lot of help too.

Finally, my mechanic changed the t-stat to something low. He said 71 degree but I am not sure if 71 degree does exist so I guess he might not be too honest there. BUT at least he know I need the lowest possible.

CAN I ASK?? your procedures in taking the door trim off? I have searched and read... A lot about coupe with a hook or whatever which is different to 4-doors. What is the procedures, what u had to remove and tips...


cheers

James,

Great to hear that it was a simple fix. I agree I really like the classic lines of the W140 over the newer models. I run at 80 to 90 here in California. I have read the mod. that Jim has done on his MB (the site Mr. Goodwrench is telling you about) and it sure does make a lot of sense. It is a simple mod. that you can do with great results. Mr. Goodwrench is right, you should consider it since you live in Florida and you get pretty hot there. I look forward to the pic. of your ride. I will get a pic. to send to you too. I have had mine for about four months now. Dark metalic blue with AMG Monobloc rims 255 45 18's.

James, I just thought of another thing that I read about here in this forum. The Evap. core is a challenge in the early years of the W140. Have you had to have yours chaged out yet or was it done before you purchased the car?

Tom,
Don't even mention the dreaded evaporator! I'm not sure if it has been changed before I got it, but so far [touch wood] everything's fine.
I know all about the horror stories regarding the evaporator on these cars. In fact, it seems to be a common problem with all the so-called high end European cars. I had to replace the evaporator in a Porsche 944 that I have, and that also required you to remove the dash. I did all the grunt work removing everything then took it to my mechanic to install and gas up the new unit. That kept the overall costs down.
Similarly with a Jag XJ6 I had, although I managed to get rid of that before it became too bad.
Look forward to seeing your car. Sounds beautiful. I sent a pic of mine as an attachment, and am not sure if it went through. Do you know how to include a pic ?

"Mr Goodwrench", thanks for the info on the link - will check it later. The "Cool Harness" sounds like exactly what I need.

"h-shek", also thanks for the tip regarding the fan clutch, will be checking that, although I think that was checked and a new lower temp thermostat installed when the work was done replacing the head gaskets. Don't remember what the new operating temp is/was.
Regarding the door trim, I have never had to remove it on this car, so am not too familiar with the procedure. It just seems like it would be a pain in the ***.

James

Tom,
Here's a pic of my pride and joy.

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Another view

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Oh!!! You don't have to remove the trim to get to the handle?? Sorry I must have mis-read.

I assume the side screw (#1) is accessable from the side of the door?

very nice maintained 140 you have there!! well done!

"h-shek" Thanks. I must admit I am a little obsessive with the car. Always garaged, Meguiars 3-stage polish/wax weekly, regular maintenance, etc. What model do you have?

Just checked the link about the "Cool Harness", and the other techniques for lowering the running temp. of these cars. Will definitely be trying them. I am really nervous when caught in stop-go traffic for any length of time, especially during the "summer" months down here. Ambient temps are routinely 95 - 100 degs.

Where in Asia are you?

James