I wish you the best of luck. The scotchbrite really leaves a lot of grit. I think that if you don't change oil and filter really frequently for the first few miles, you're going to be sorry. Even then you may have a serious price to pay.

Good luck,

I alraedy have three new filter and two cases of oil and will change the oil three times in the first 1000 miles to be safe. I really don't think grit material got in the engine. I was extra caerful and used a tape and a shop vacuum to block the water and oil holes.
Question:
I will the oil pan tomorrow. Is it possible to spray inbetween the piston and piston bore with a cleaner. I am istalling a new oil pump and chain. I have noticed a big oil spot on the block wall below the exhaust manifold for cylinders 4,5, and 6 and also in the back of the head which suggests a leaking head gasket. The machine shop also mentioned that the head was slightly worped in the middle and they machined 0.007 of an inch off the head surface.
Meza

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Meza
1993 190E 2.6
Advanced Diesel Systems Test and Research Engineer

Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't it be ashame not to pop out the pisons since you have the heads off and will have the pan off as well? It seems that most the hard work is done at that point. I once rebuilt a 4.5L MB engine with 150k miles that was burning lots of oil (1qt/500miles). The oil scraper (bottom) rings were completely caked and allowed oil from the bottom end to work up into the combustion port. Changing the rings fixed that problem and 100k miles later it still isn't burning oil between oil changes. Didn't even need a rebore (just a light honing). Of course if you are not going to keep the car you might as well not even open the oil pan. If you are opening it up then you must be planning on keeping it. If you take out the pistons you'll need a ridge reamer else you'll destroy the pistons. Might as well replace the rod bearings while you're there.

Good luck

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1972 450SL
1982 300D Turbo

You mean you're taking the pan off?

I really hate to keep harping, but my gosh, taking the pan off is the biggest part of the work you have left to re ring this engine while it is apart. It would be so little trouble to just finish it up.

Best of luck with your project.

Have a great day,

Ok larry. I discussed this with my wife. She doesn't know much about cars, however, since she's the one driving the MB and really likes it and want to keep it, I will order new rings and put them on. I will need help. I have never done this before. How to use a ridge and a ring compressor? How to pull them out, put the ring and so on. Those done this before, please participate and help me. I will be very careful and do one at a time. Those that are on TDC will be first (1&6) then (2 &4) and finally (3 &5). I will need to know the torque on the bolts. The set made by Geotze goes for $171. By the way, when I look them up on Fastlane for example, I am given two choices:

-10-014906
-12-034368

which one do I use and what is the difference? It's a 93 190e 2.6L engine

Meza

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Meza
1993 190E 2.6
Advanced Diesel Systems Test and Research Engineer

Is the engine out?
If yes, put it on an engine stand (they can be rented). Turn it over and unbolt the connecting rods. Use a ridge reamer to clean up the ridge at the top of the cylinders. A ridge reamer can be borrowed from Autozone. Once the ridge is removed and the connecting rods are unbolted you drive the pistons (with connecting rods attached) out threw the top of the cylinder. Now you can clean up the pistons, install the new rings, clean up the cylinder walls and re-install the pistons/rods. Pay REAL CLOSE attention to driving the pistons back into place. YOU DO NOT WANT TO TOUCH THAT BEARING SURFACE ON THE CRANK with the connecting rods bolts. I always slip a rubber hose over them and let the hose straddle the crank. This is very important. Make sure you install new crank/rod brgs too. They are pretty cheap. Come back with questions as necessary.

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Jim

Before I started on the rings I'd check for a ridge -- if it is less than a couple thousandths, you can ignore it, I think. If more, you probably need to sleeve and rebore rather than just stuff new rings in.

To check, just scrape you fingernail up the side of the cylinder bore on a cylinder with the piston down -- my guess is that you will find a barely perceptible ridge about 3 mm or so from the top. If it stops your fingernail, you want to use the reamer to cut it off JUST enough to let the rings pop over it. If it won't catch and hold your fingernail, best to leave it alone and just push the pistons out, the rings will jump it.

What you want to avoid at all costs is cutting enough material out to leave a rigde the other way -- wider at the top -- which will make it impossible to re-install the pistons.

Too much advice?!?>

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I went through this with my 1989 103 engine. at 220K. There was absolutely no ridged to talk about. These blocks are probably carved from a solid granite block as there was absolutely no wear on the cylinder walls.
I also needed to replace the oil pan gasket (major leak).
First, unbolt the connecting rods. The order has no importance. Make sure you keep the connecting rod caps with the rod they were with. Do no mis-match the rod/bearings/caps. A gentle tap with a piece of wood from the bottom is all that is required to get the pistons out. Make sure you clean the ring grooves. You can get (rent) a the tool at any good auto-parts store. It is a kind of narrow scraper that fits in the ring groove. Do not remove any metal, only carbon and deposits.
Installing the rigs is easy. be carefully not to brake or bend the rings while installing on the piston. Go slowly. The ring compressor tool fits around the piston when the rings are installed. It makes it much easier to re-introduce the piston in the cylinder. Again, a little tapping with a piece of wood is helpful.
Rod bearings: Look at their condition. They should be ok with your relative low mileage. For more assurance, you may want to replace those too. (not expensive). Your oil pressure should go up a little.
Again, at the stage your at, this is the smartest thing to do.
JackD

Alternate the ring gaps so they dont all line up in a row. this will assure good compression. Lubricate w/ motor oil the rings, wrist pin and bearings when you reinstal. Make sure the ring compressor tool is lubed along the walls where the rings slide through. Do not pound the pistons out or in. Light tapping should do with the bottom of a hammer (the wood part) or a dowel.

I doubt you will need to rebore. Can someone else in this forum comment on the need to hone the bores with a drill mounted honer? I recal when i reringed an engine I honed only enough to break the glaze and set up the correct cross hatch pattern.

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1972 450SL
1982 300D Turbo