looks like I need to replace my evaporator and compressor..am I nuts???
 

I had Brumos inspect and test my a/c system...they evac ac recovered .9 lbs added 2.5 lbs, ac is leaking at compressor and water drains to the evap are showing dye, also freon odor in cabin. Blew cold for me on the way home. Next afternoon my wife calls and says its blowing hot again :( Could it be something else?????? Added moe freon the other day and same result, overnight it was blowing hot again :(


Cost to do evap and comp is around $3600 at Brumos. Overby's wants about the same. Both have 1 yr warranty. Another local indy called AutoBahn quoted around $2300 over the phone with 6 month warranty.

I am planning the evap removal and reinstall for this weekend. I have a good friend who is a Mazda tech and former Ford and Nissan Tech. He'll be doing most the work as a big favor to me and I'll be helping. I plan on buying an ACM evap with expansion valve form Phil at FastLane, an o-ring kit and the high pressure line o-rings along with a drier. My friend has a pump and the tools he'll need. I am a pretty good diy wrench myself with a good tool collection. Need a Miata wrenched on, call me :)

I am looking at compressors. Probably do the compressor the following weekend. Phil sells a new compressor for under $800 and a rebuilt for under $500 with clutch. Local autozone had one for $350 with clutch and $40 core. All have a one year warranty. Opinions on compressors?

What else should I replace while in there with the dash out...heater core?

I love the car, it has 77k miles. Looks great, runs great, has the a/c problem and the occasional code 26. Newer tires, battery, OVP, valve cover gasket, fluids, full records, no accidents...etc. Local dealer offered me $10k on a trade but I owe $14K Should I take a bath on a trade or fix it. They have a real nice 99 c230 with 33k miles for about $20K but I'd have to roll in my negative plus I want an extended warranty on any used car I buy from now on, especially a Mercedes.

Replace any of the vacuum flap actuators that you find while you are in there. One or more probably have failed by now. Replacing them later on will require "cracking open the dash", so get them done now..

Thanks. I'll check with Phil for the parts. How many are there?

I have had no end of trouble with the $400 rebuilt unit. You have to take the speed control thingy off your old one, and I think the manfold pipe connector as well. I have not been able to get the speed control to seal right despite two shop visits.

If you are going to this much trouble, get the new compressor.

Think you also need a drier bottle and you might want to check to see if you have the higher temp/pressure switches.

Does the cd or paper manual cover the evap removal and install pretty well?

I need to source either the cd or hard copy. Any suggestions?

When you post a question like that, it's best to clearly state the year and model, or else have it in your signature. Digging through your profile I see a 1994 E320, so we'll assume that is it.

The W124 has the evaporator buried way down under the dash, so the whole dash has to come out. Yes, you should go ahead and replace all the vacuum pods while you're there. Just call Phil and tell him you want all the pods - he'll know what to do.

The Nippondenso has teflon coated pistons that spread "black death" throughout the system when the compressor goes. Because of this and the reason mentioned above, avoid the auto parts store compressor. Buy one from Phil. Obviously the new is a good choice, I haven't heard anything about rebuilds from here.

Another alternative to explore for the expensive and labor-intensive parts is the dealer. MB parts carry a one year parts and labor warranty, even if they did not do the labor. You put in a compressor, it fails within a year, they replace it including labor for free.

No, I don't think you're nuts. The car is worthless in Florida without air. If you and your friend can get this job done right, you'll be able to enjoy the car for a long, long time.

FYI...its a 1994 E320. Sorry I didn't make it more forthcoming. I'll have to change my signature.

Ok the evap,comp. and actuators have been ordered from Phil, should be here tomorrow. Overnight UPS.


VACUUM ELEMENT SET
ACM EVAPORATOR, WITH EXPANSION VALVE
O RING SET
DRIER
NEW MERCEDES COMPRESSOR

I also have a the radio removal keys coming as well.


Any other "special Mercedes only" tools necessary to remove the dash components to get to the evap?

I don't know about your model, but the evap. removal/replacement procedure is covered on the 126 CD. If there is a CD for your car, it should be on it.

Neumann,
 

I just responded to your PM. Some of my questions were answer here. You may need to replace the drainage hoses from the evaporator. Mine were trashed. I improvized with stuff from Home Depot.:D
This weekend I will be busy changing the brake pads on my son's Jetta but, give me a call...:cool:

Update...Friday 6/13/03 lunch run home.... Parts arrived. Compressor (Nippon in ACM box), evap (ACM), 6 vacuum pods, drier. o-rings. Only thing missing was the radio keys :( ***** edit ***** I found them :)

My wife is going shopping for my favorites this weekend. Black Forest ham, cold beer, good German rye bread, Classic Coca Cola and a huge bag of tootsie rolls. Looks like I'll be spending my weekend in the garage :)

I've been doing lots of research, bookmarked, printed and highlighted alot of posts. I think I have a handle on the process. One of the board members graciously provided some pdf files of the evac r/r and a couple other sections. Kudos to all.

Anyone fabricate radio removal keys or know of another way to remove the radio?

I have a set of radio keys, but Tampa is a long way to drive for them. Call the dealer and see if they have some in stock.

I found the radio keys :) They were in a very small plastic bag bunched up with the o ring kit.

day one of evap project
 

I got started and jumped right in. Pulled both airbags, radio, center console, climate controls, instrument cluster (friggin pain in the butt to remove), front carpet and kick panels and started to remove the main dash portion. I need to buy a 10mm allen drive to remove the steering wheel. I thought it would be a 10mm nut holding the wheel but it looks like a 10mm head allen bolt :confused:

I have about 5 hours into it.

I had alot of trouble with the instrument cluster. I tried to push from the left speaker hole...no budge. I tried some homemade hooks made from a coat hanger..just kept bending but with some success. I finally pulled the lower most dash on the driver side and was able to push from below.

I've been using zip lock bags to hold removed items and I am wrapping screws and bolts with tape and marking them with a corresponding number from the location it came from. Some numbers I use a black sharpie marker and other areas I need to use a "white out" pen.


I'm tired after a long week at work and a full evening of this. Stay tuned for an update tomorrow night.

So far nothing out of the ordinary. A car is a car when reduced to nuts and bolts :) I just need to stay organized and keep labeling as I go.

neumann

I have been following this and I can imagine ..... I will to do this with the 190 for the heater core soon.

Not many people can do something like this .... let alone actually try and tackle it. Be sure to take the obligatory picture of the dash gutted .... to be an impressive picture.

Hang in there. It sounds like you are taking the right approach with bagging and identifying everything.

Keep us posted!

Haasman

David,
 

I told you...It is not technically hard but, physically, it is a bear of a job. Did you send me a PM?