100 grams per liter of water.

Be sure to flush and drain several times afterward to remove any trace of the flushing agent.

As for the Prestone stuff, I can't comment, as I don't know what is in it. I've seen people dump all manner of things into rads, including CLR demineralizer, and even muriatic acid pool cleaner! Yikes.

But the critical item is to not use something that might attack either the soldered seals in the system, nor any of the gaskets and hoses. Citric alone is reportedly okay for both, and that's why MB recommends it.

s/b

hmm, bought a replacement rad for $200 with shipping and it took me 1/2 hrs to install. Runs cooler than with the OEM part. But, I guess, I'm not quite as whacked as most MB owners...
I guess I committed a blasphemy by REPLACING the bad part instead of spending $$$$$ on unnecessary repairs. Stupid me...

__________________
1985 190D 2.2l Sold-to Brother-in-law
1996 Mustang 3.8l -"thinks it's a sports car"
1988 Grand Wagoneer - Sold (good home)
1995 Grand Cherokee Ltd -"What was I thinking??!!"

Some months back while rebuilding the water pump on my 350SLC I decided to have the slight leak in the radiator attended to. The radiator was returned (without protection on transmission cooler connections - grrr!) and refitted to the car.

Before long the radiator was again leaking from the same area. Again, I removed the radiator and returned it to the same shop to have it repaired and leak tested at no additional cost to me. On its return I was assured that the leak had been repaired. Again I noticed that despite me covering the transmission cooler ports, it was returned with them open. I spent considerable time flushing the cooler with transmission fluid and compressed air until no further creamy transmission fluid was evident. With the radiator reinstalled for the second time I test drove the car and all seemed fine, until the following morning when, you guessed it, there was a small patch of coolant under the car. Again, the radiator was leaking from the original area.

My dilemma is do I let the same incompetent shop have a third go at it (and again have to flush the trans cooler on its return), or do I find another radiator repair shop, spend more money and get who knows what sort of result? If the W107 radiator was not so expensive I would just buy a new one, as I fully intend to do with that in my 190E which also has a slight leak.

__________________
107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.

Greg

I think you have given the radiator shop ample opportunity to excel....

I would go back with leaking radiator, get the money back, and go to their competitor and tell them what happened AND your expectations: right the first time (including the trans cooler parts).

Coincidently, this happened with the 300E about 6 months ago. The last time I walked in with the radiator, I didn't say anything. Nothing. I just looked at them with the radiator in hand. They knew, I knew. I got what I wanted. Oh, BTW, the radiator is just fine now.

My 2 cents,

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

I would have liked to have seen the facial expressions when you returned with your radiator and said nothing! I'm pleased you got results in the end. Maybe I should use the same technique. After spending my money and having them make a botch of it twice already there is a sense of determination to have them get it right. I'm just getting tired of having to remove and replace it so many times, especially when each time I have to flush the transmission cooler of water and who-knows-what-else before refitting the radiator. To make matters worse on the 350SLC, not only do you have to disconnect coolant and transmission hoses, but the engine oil cooler has to come out attached to the radiator before it can be separated, necessitating disconnecting hoses from it as well. All very messy! I must have known something when I last refitted it all. I made a slight mod to the engine oil cooler allowing it to remain in place while the radiator is removed. Two less hoses to deal with and a little less mess.

__________________
107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
201.034: 190E 2.3-16, 5-speed manual, blue-black, black leather.