What is causing this?? Car dying!!!!!!!!! HELP!
 

I have a problem with my 380 sel. It sometimes dies when I let my foot off the gas when slowly traveling, or it will bog down and rev back up to normal rpms (500) unless I am stopping and it is bogging at the same time. It also either bogs down during medium to heavy (panic stops) braking and dies. It has even died instantaneously before. :eek:

I have replaced or fixed the following to try to help it:

Replaced Fuel Filter.
Cleaned Idle Control Valve.
Checked vaccum lines going to intake.
Checked and cleaned air filter (only 4000 miles on it, looks new).
Checked for proper air flow. Has it.

I have not checked my plugs yet.

It also seems to have a lower economy than normal, but it goes away as soon as I notice it. I can change it with pressure on gas pedal, so I think its my imagination.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this? This is my only car, and I need the engine to keep going while I am paying for it (plus its really embarrassing to have guests in my car when it does it.)

Thanks,

Someone please help this guy!

I feel your pain man. I love this board, but you'll do better during times of distress by going to www.MBworld.org ;simply b/c that board is in our time, not GST.

What is GST?

Greenwich standard time. Its also refered to as Greenwich Mean Time, or Zulu in the military. On this forum, you can change that in your preferences.

**The car**
It is also bogging down on cold take offs. It is like its flooding or not getting enough fuel. I cant tell which. I push the pedal beyond idle and unless I floor it, it bogs for 5 seconds or so. If I floor it, it bogs for a sec then gradually gathers rpm, in the next second.

if the effect that you are getting is like the car is stuttering, then it would pay to check out your spark plugs and leads, my 300ce was doing that. and $30AUD later i had 6 new sparkies and two leads.

oops forgot to finish. and the car runs so much better it is like a completely new car.

The problem is with your fuel relay switch. You can repair it yourself with a solder iron and thin solder wire... or simply buy a new one. If you want to DIY then I'll tell you how.

That's funny, this board system defaults to GMT (or GST, or ZULU, or what ever one wishes to call it), yet I can easily reset it so mine always shows in Pacific Standard or Pacific Daylight. All one needs to do is set the preferred time standard in their preferences.

I don't know your car, but the symptom is of problems occuring durig a return-to-idle condition. There are various switches and sensors involved I would check that detect this. You should have a throttle position sensor on the throttle shaft at least, and probably an airflow meter potentiometer as well. If the latter is original, it is likely worn out.

Steve

OVP relay -- when it's intermittant, it causes the current to the idle control valve to drop, this drops the rpm to the point where the engine won't run properly, and it stalls. Can cause hard hot starts, too.

The same thing happens to the EHA, too, dropping the current to 0 at the wrong time, so you don't get the enrichment you need to accelerate. Just like a bad accelerator pump on a carb.

I'd replace the OVP relay before doing anything else, particularly if the ABS light flickers (same relay problem, different circuit in the relay).

Peter

I strongly suggest you check out your fuel relay before you open a can of worms. If it's the relay it will be either bent pins where the unit plugs into the cars wiring or it is cracked solder points on the circuit board of the relay. Lift off cover of relay and have a look. Use magnifying glass to examine back of circuit board.

I would like that DIY info, it will come in handy I am sure.

Thanks for the replys. I had a final last week, and have not been here at all. If anyone has any other ideas, please divulge your wisdom :).