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#16
06-30-2003, 08:02 AM
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Here is an after pic.
I have a new water pump, new belt tensioner assembly, new motor mount, new motor mount bracket, the head is in and the bolts are finger tight. That is it for this pilgrim for a short weekend. While it is fresh, if you use a chain hoist, angle the rear of the head down when you lower it. Will keep you from breaking the chain guide, and the rear hoist ring will get in the way if you do not. Also, put the bypass hose all the way on the head, then slide it over the water pump spout and put the hose clamps on afterward. Also, if you get the head assembled by the machine shop and it is not on TDC, there are two unused, unthreaded holes on the cam sprocket pully. Put undersize bolts in them and use a screwdriver to turn the cam to TDC. Bon chance, off to bed. 
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#17
06-30-2003, 05:43 PM
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Zhandax,
I am glad everything is working out for you!
A few of more questions while they are fresh: 1. What was the turn around from the machine shop? 2. How long is the guide rail pin? 3. I understand there are two different sealers for the upper timing chain cover. One for the actual cover and one for the "u" seal. Did you get just the 5900?and from where? 4. I am not clear if you left the intake manifold on the engine or on the head. I guess you got the bolts from underneath with what? extension...13 mm socket? I bought a 24" breaker bar, the 12 point "star" from Pepboys. Sorry for all the questions but, it is getting close. I will keep you guys posted...
__________________
J.H. '86 300E Last edited by J.HIDALGO; 06-30-2003 at 06:43 PM.
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#19
07-01-2003, 07:16 AM
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JH,
Poor planning on my part, I took it in on Monday, and really did not need it until Friday, and simply asked if he could get to it that week. When I picked it up, I overheard one of the guys tell a customer on the phone if it came in by Monday, they typically had it ready by Wednedsay. Would have saved me a 200 mile round trip if I could have picked it up on the way to work Thursday. Without measuring, the guide pin looks like about an inch. Someone posted a rather detailed description of the various part numbers of sealers. If they did not explicitly state, it sure sounded like the 5900 would pretty much work for the whole job. That is all I bought. I will double check before I install it, but it seems you want to avoid getting sealer on the U-seal. I seem to recall Larry Bible having a post I want to re-read about the details of installing the U-seal. I left the intake on the head during removal and reattached it prior to reinstallation. Since I needed to replace the motor mount bracket, motor mount, water pump and belt tensioner, it seemed easier to have the intake out of the way. Also, only the two intake support bolts must be removed if the intake stays with the head. I reached them with about 15" of extensions and an impact wrench. You will be really happy you got that 24" breaker bar. Given the choice, I would probably take it over an impact wrench. I did remove the exhaust manifolds prior to removal of the head.
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#20
07-01-2003, 07:17 PM
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Zhandax,
When are you putting the head back on? I will be all ears, well...eyes
 , to hear (see) the outcome of your project. I am planing to remove the head on the 5th July. I may help from a fellow poster here, otherwise, I am on my own...I do not have an impact wrench. Hopefully, I won't need it. BTW, I was thinking about sending you a PM but, after I saw the number of hit on this threat, 365 right now, I will keep it open for other posters to see the outcome. Peace!
__________________
J.H. '86 300E
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#21
07-02-2003, 12:19 AM
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The sealant you need and some advice.
I personally use Loctite 5999 and not 5900. I have access to the 5999 and checked the data sheet for both and they are the same thing. It is by far the best sealant I have yet to see to block oil and water at low and high temperature. Check the website for "Loctite" and locate a dealer that sell it. The one I have looks like one of those silcon tubes you buy at Wal-mart.
When you pull the cylinderhead in your car, DO NOT BREAK THE GUIDE RAIL THAT HAS THE PRESSED PIN. Be extra extra carful otherwise you just added another week of work to remove the lower cover. You can easily remove the head keeping both manifolds in the car. It is a hell of alot easier job to leave them in the car. Push the intake back with you hand 1/2 inch and that's all you need to seperate it fom the head. Good luck Meza 93 190e 2.6L
__________________
Meza 1993 190E 2.6 Advanced Diesel Systems Test and Research Engineer
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#22
07-02-2003, 12:22 AM
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Re: The sealant you need and some advice.
Quote:
Tastes great! Less filling! Tastes great! Less filling! ... Sixto 95 S420 91 300SE 87 300SDL 83 300SD
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#23
07-02-2003, 07:00 AM
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Technically, the head is on , but the bolts are just finger tight. The eastern sky was getting light, and I put the bolts in to keep the holes clean (insects, condensation, etc) more than anything else. I had shot carb cleaner in the holes to clean them out and then blew them out with compressed air.
This brings up a question. Normally there would be some oil in the bolt holes. Since mine are clean, would I be better off putting some oil on the threads to ease torquing, or put anti-sieze on the threads? I guess I will still put oil on the washers. A couple of other notes; I went out and looked at the tube, and I got my 5900 from Mercedes. I just asked for the part number I saw in the post here I mentioned last night. It is in a syringe about 1.5" dia, and about 6 inches long. I also got a replacement chain guide pin. The bolt stuck in the pin, and I was concerned holding it with vice grips to remove the bolt might mar the surface. Another pin was maybe a buck, so I got the replacement. Also, Butch, who does the head work for Erol's in Nashville (legendary local independent) , showed me a great gadget for cleaning the top of the block. 3M makes it and it is called Rolok or Rolox. He recommended the green version. The only place I found that knew about them on Saturday was out of stock. You may have to call the Jax 3M distributor during the week. If you will ONLY remove the head, you may as well leave the manifolds in the car. That said, if you intend to replace the water pump in the next 100k miles, you might prefer to do it with the intake out. If you think you might replace the driver's side motor mount, it is far easier with the intake out. On that topic, one last question...the driver's side motor mount went fine. However, on the passenger side, I stripped the bottom hex cap screw trying to remove it. Absent a better suggestion, I will drill the head off. Does anyone know the dia, length, and pitch of this bolt so I can get a replacement tomorrow?
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#24
07-02-2003, 06:44 PM
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Zhandax,
As far as the bolts, I think I read in the MB CD that the bolts were updated. The new bolts do not have/need washers. I may have misread it. I will double check/read that portion.
An extra chain guide pin is a great idea. The water pump is fairly new so, I do not plan to change any accessories (I hope). On other news, I talked to the machine shop today. They are expecting the head on Monday and, they will take the whole head and dis/assemble for me. Two days turn around, unless the have to order parts. Will continue...
__________________
J.H. '86 300E
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#26
07-02-2003, 09:42 PM
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You shouldn't oil up the threads on bolts that need a torque spec...the oil will cause a misread in the torquing, and can allow the bolts to loosen up.
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#27
07-03-2003, 01:10 AM
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conversekidz is right..
Last weekend 70 miles after I put the head back on my 190e 2.6L, water mixed with oil and I narrowed it down to bad torquing because of the oil I put on the bolts.
Meza
__________________
Meza 1993 190E 2.6 Advanced Diesel Systems Test and Research Engineer
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#28
07-03-2003, 02:40 AM
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Section 01-415 step 28 says "Oil the thread of the cylinder head bolts and also the contact surface of the bolt head and insert." Then 70Nm, 90-degrees, 90-degrees.
Did you use a tap to clean the bolt hole threads in the block? Did you blow out the bolt holes to make sure there was nothing left inside? Sixto 95 S420 91 300SE 87 300SDL 83 300SD
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#29
07-03-2003, 02:49 AM
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if you are going to use anything, I would only use assembly lube, and not common motor oil.
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#30
07-03-2003, 07:09 AM
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JH,
If the new style bolts do not require washers, logic would dictate they would be shorter by the thickness of the washer. If the new ones are about 5mm shorter than 105mm, I should omit the washers to insure the same thread depth and bolt stretch. I will measure them tomorrow, but does this sound about right? The other question; what is the practical difference in assembly lube and anti-sieze compound?
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