Finally, I been putting this off for a while but, I think I am ready (I think) now to take a big jump and remove the head myself, in the next couple of weeks, and then send it to a machinist for a valve job.
I have the CD and read quite a few posts on this job. However, I need to double check on the parts needed. So far I came up with this list:
- Cylinder head gasket kit. Do I need all that or individual pieces?
- Cylinder head bolts X14? What size is the twelve point socket?
-Time chain tensioner. Necessary?
- Timing guide rail (inner). Maybe...
- Timing guide rail (outer). Maybe...
- Timing guide rail @ tensioner. Maybe...
- Bypass hose, since I am already there.
- Sealant front cover 002 989 73 20 10 (loctite5900)
- Sealant "U" gasket 001 989 89 20 10
- I know I need a 6 mm? bolt to extract the guide rail pin.

I already have the valve cover gasket. I am planning to leave the intake manifold in place. I have a good number of tools but, I am wondering if I need any "flex" sockets/extensions or any special tools.
Any tips an/or missing anything?
Thanks!

__________________
J.H.
'86 300E

12mm(?) double hex for the cylinder head bolts. I got a 4 piece tip set from Pep Boys for ~$10. The tips fit in a 1/2" socket. If you plan to get a 603 engine, you'll have the 10mm(?) tip for that too.

If the head gasket set is more expensive than the head gasket and manifold gaskets, then just get the pieces. The exhaust manifold gasket is 5 of one shape of gasket and 1 of another shape of gasket.

There's a hose from the idle valve to the intake manifold that's a PITA to replace with the engine in place. It's much easier to get to with the head and/or intake manifold out of the car.

How old are the distributor pieces?

How old is the water pump?

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Will the shop take care of R&R'ing the valve springs and fitting new valve stem seals?

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

Early era Benzmac info. You may have seen.

300E Valve job

1987 260E valve job

Sixto,
I'd seen the 4 tip set at Pep Boys but I was not sure if that was going to work...Did you use that with success?
The distributor was replaced within the last six months and the water pump is about 3 years old. Injectors are about 1.5 years old.
As far as the shop taking care of new valve stem seals and valve springs. Yes, to the stem seals. I am not sure about the springs. However, I want them to do as much as they can (instead of me) while the head is out. I will inquire more when I take the head in.
The machine shop is recommended by a local VW dealership where they also work on MB and BMW. So they know what they are doing.
I talked to them in the past and the first thing they told me is: "You will need valve stem seals" (based on milage alone). I have around 250K.
Keep it coming...

__________________
J.H.
'86 300E

The Pep Boys tips work fine. I've used them on the 603 and 103. I can't see spending more for dedicated sockets.

You might dip the tip of a rag in the bolt heads to soak up the oil otherwise the double hex tool might not sit properly in the bolt head. If the expensive tools have a hollow bit then that'll save a step. Still not worth more money to me.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

JH - the cylinder head job is a piece of cake compared to removing/replacing a dashboard. In my opinion.

__________________
Jim

J,

When did you plan on doing the work? Drop me a line and I'll help out as much as possible.

Btw, I need to return your a/c manual.

Jim,
I HOPE it is easier than the dashboard.
David,
I am planing to remove the head the first/second weekend of July. Are you going to be available? I will let you know for sure. Remember, two heads are better than one. No pund intended!

Any other advice?

__________________
J.H.
'86 300E

JH,
Just got mine back from the machine shop today (Friday).

Here is the itemized bill:

valve job w/cam.....125.00
pressure check........35.00
mill........................37.50
install guides...........72.00
rmv broken bracket.....n/c

This came back with the lifters/cam installed and the lifters bled.
The guy who actually did the work had already gone for the day, but a couple of other guys at the shop said the valve guides were shot.

You do need a 12mm double square socket to remove the head bolts. I ordered mine from Snap-On, but someone posted that Autozone has them. (save you about $15)

Sixto is right about removing the oil from inside the bolt heads. Put a plastic straw in a can of carb cleaner, and shoot some in the bolt heads. It will dilute some of the built-up crud and make soaking up the surplus oil easier.
I did get a 24" breaker bar from Autozone, and it made removal a breeze. Hope it does the same on double 90 angle torques.

I got the guide pin out with a 2" 6mm bolt, a washer, and a socket (smaller, maybe 10mm)
If you have any difficulty getting the rotor bracket out, cut it off before you crunch the orange plastic disc behind it. Bracket is about $23. orange disk is $60.
The guy at the machine shop did tell me several times I was not the first person to bring one in with the rotor bracket broken. And he took the broken one off at no charge.

If any exhaust manifold studs come off with the nuts, put them back on the head. The machine shop will clean them nicely. If you leave them on the shop floor, you will have to get the nuts off, try to remove the rust, and then reinstall.

I got 316 stainless nuts for reinstallation, and wanted matching studs, but I did not plan ahead, and at 4:30 on Firday, this was not happening. As a point of reference, the guy at Capitol City Bolt 'n Screw ID's the nuts as silicone bronze. He did not have any of that material, though, which explains the stainless.

I took SteveB's advise to heart, and got a gasket set from MB. Even though I already had an intake gasket.
It includes such things as the o-ring for the heater pipe from the water pump.
I also got new head bolts. You might take one out and measure to see if it is less than (I think) 108mm. If so, you should be able to reuse yours.

Any timing rail or guide replacement will require removal of the lower timing cover, which will probably add close to another day of work. Since I got the head off without breaking anything, I am leaving the guides alone. The sprocket looks fine, and the chain did not show any signs of wear on the links I can see.

I am using locktite 5900 for all resealing on the timing cover.
I also am taking a clean engine compartment opportunity to replace the water pump, all the hoses, belt tensioner, belt, motor mount bracket (mount seems ok at around 30mm height) and clean all the ground points.

Sharpie now makes a silver ink permananent marker, which is great for marking the cam sprocket and chain links after they have turned dark from oil.

I left the intake on because 1) there were only two bolts to remove from underneath, and 2) I need to replace the motor mount bracket, water pump, and belt tensioner, all of which is easier with the intake out of the way. I think the ease of leaving the intake in the car depends on how far you get the car off the ground.

Great info!
Did you take the head to the shop with the cam still on the head? and, do you have any pictures before and after? I would love to see those...

__________________
J.H.
'86 300E

Buy some ziplock plastic baggies to put nuts/bolts/small parts in and label the bag, to know exactly where each part goes when it's time to re-assemble. Don't rely on your memory, you'll be overwhelmed with nuts & bolts & brackets!

Feel free to email me as well JH, as you go along.

I'll also add more tips to this thread as I remember them.

G'luck

__________________
-Paul-
'01 E430, Sport 72,000 mi
'98 C280, 126,500 mi

I remember your offered some tips last year. I may need them...
Keep it coming!

__________________
J.H.
'86 300E

I use the black Sharpie to mark on the plastic zip baggies what the fasteners/brackets are for. Also, use the digital camera and take shots of where the different size studs, etc.. go prior to disassembly.

__________________
Jim

JH,
I took it to the shop just like it came out. I did remember to remove the spark plugs. The shop said they would return it at any stage of reassembly I wanted. I had them put it all back together. They even bled the lifters. He indicated the car might not start until this was done. Saves me yet another learning curve.

I remembered another Autozone bargain you will need. They have a 3 piece hex socket set with (I think) a 12mm, 14mm and 17mm. The 17mm will remove the timing chain tensioner cap, and the 14mm will remove the threaded ring inside.

Here is a before pic. I will take some 'after' shots and post them Sunday night.

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