1990 300TE Brakes - Help
 

I am trying to replace front pads and rotors on a 1990 300TE and I can't find instructions. Everything I find refers to pins that need to be removed like every car I've seen but, there are no pins in this car. There is also no spring clip like some models. I heard or read somewhere that it was really easy but I can't break the code...no pun intended.

I have attached a picture of the calipers.

Does anyone know where to find directions?

Thanks

Lee in Colorado:confused:

Yes!
 

Top of this page, under DIY.
Shortcut:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BrakePads

Good luck!

Hi Lee, those look the same as the one's on my 88 CE , there are 2 bolts that screw into hollow bolts at the back side of the caliper, 15 &17 mm wrenches if I remember correctly.Hold the hollow bolt and remove the inner bolt.The 124 CD has them listed as 'fixed' calipers but they are floating calipers.The calipers in the DIY section are different than what you have. Good luck.

Torgue specs?
 

Kyle, JH,

Excellent advice, it worked great. Easiest brake job I've ever done. The hollow bolts sizes are 15mm (open end) and 13mm socket. See photo attached.

After removing the caliper piston assembly you can lay it on the steering assembly (don't know the technical name) and there is no need to bleed the lines unless, of course, you want or need to. Remember to open the master cylinder and monitor it so that it does not overflow. You can remove some brake fluid with a turkey baster (my wife loved that!)

I will post a second photo is of the caliper piston laying aside. There is one line that needs to be unclipped from a bracket to give you enough slack. It just snaps in and out.

QUESTION: What do I torque the hollow bolts back to? I read the number once before but I cannot remember where I saw it. Can you help?

And: What do I torque the lug nuts to?

Thanks,
Lee in CO:D

Here is the photo of the caliper assembly laying aside with all lines still attached.

I used an old pad and a C clamp to compress the piston. I had to compress it all of the way to fit it over the new pads. That's why you have to open the master cylinder. It raised the level well above full after the second front wheel. Fronts only this weekend.

I believe the torque spec for the caliper bolts is 115nm, or about 85 lb ft.

The caliper bolts come with a Loctite type of dressing on them. Many people do not replace the bolts. I would suggest you at least use some sort of Loctite on them. Safety item-

I use 80 lb ft for the wheels. Torque them evenly using a criss-cross pattern.

Haasman

Hi Lee , the self-locking bolt on the caliper is torqued to 35 Nm, wheel bolts to 110 Nm.The manual says to replace the self-locking bolts after each use, I reused mine and put locktite on it.Good luck.

<<I used an old pad and a C clamp to compress the piston. I had to compress it all of the way to fit it over the new pads. That's why you have to open the master cylinder. It raised the level well above full after the second front wheel. >>

That works, but if you just crack the bleeder when pushing the pistons back in, not only do they go in easily, but you get rid of the old caliper fluid [ this is where all the crap accumulates] instead of sending it back up to the Master . The master level does not change...
As long as you close the bleeder when pistons bottom out , you will not have any air entering the system.
Once you see the color of the fluid, you can then decide if a change is due...... I use a clear plastic hose drained into a container from bleeder nipple for fluid containment [ hate that stuff all over the place] ... a box end wrench fits right over the hose for bleeder loosen/tighten w/o having to remove hose, making for a clean job....