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  #1  
Old 07-05-2003, 01:45 PM
azhari
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Unhappy 190e will not shift out of 1st gear!Help!

Came back to the car after bein parked for 2 hours.

Drive off and notice that the car is not shifting out of 1st gear.

Drive up to 3000+ rpm and still it does not shift into 2nd gear.

Feels like 1st gear coz it's very preppy.

It was 1130pm, so I had AA tow the car back to my home.

What gives?

Sticking kickdown switch?

Anyone?

Will only get to work on the car tomorrow afternoon.

Help!
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  #2  
Old 07-06-2003, 02:08 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,303
When that happened with ours, it was bad news. Our indie said clutch material had shed and plugged the fluid channels. Required a rebuild.

Steve
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'08 RAV4 Ltd 3.5
'83 Lazy Daze m'home 5.7
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  #3  
Old 07-07-2003, 01:38 AM
azhari
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Kickdown switch...

By the way, for the benefit of other members, I disconnected the kickdown switch, just in case it was sticking and preventing me from shifting up.

But no go...

By the way, the transmission (auto) starts from 1st gear coz the last time I drove it was in S mode.

Even after switching back to E mode, the car still starts from 1st gear so it definitely looks like a problem in the tranny itself.
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  #4  
Old 07-07-2003, 02:04 AM
azhari
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Damn...

That's exactly what my indie diagnosed just now.

My car is having it's transmission rebuilt.
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  #5  
Old 07-07-2003, 09:08 AM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Tucker, Ga USA
Posts: 12,153
There are 2 plastic gears in the rear of the transmission. Governor drive gears.
Very common for the rear punp to come apart & break those gears. WE do that type of repair several times a year for less than $500.
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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
ASE Master Technician
Mercedes Benz Star Technician (2 times)
44 years foreign automotive repair
27 Years M.B. Shop foreman (dealer)
MB technical information Specialist (15 years)
190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2003, 12:14 AM
azhari
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M.B.DOC

Just came back from the indie.

Car was sent yesterday. Today, saw the transmission out and it looks 80% "done".

Spoke to the tech and he said that the governer drive gear was broken and showed me the part.Also showed me bits of clutch material which he said were blocking up the fluid channels.

Said they worked after 6pm onwards yesterday on my transmission so I could get my car back quick, like later today (I refer a number of W201s and W124s to their workshop).

I ask him for his opinion as to the cause of the breakdown and he said "fair wear and tear", given that my mileage is like 306,000 km.Or really hard driving (is that possible in a Merc?) in S mode.

He also informs me that the more common issues with Merc transmissions he has seen are B-piston failure (reverse only).

Then he gets into his seminar on gearbox maintenance (regular oil/filter changes, etc) which I listen courteously.

He also shows me a W202 with 130,000km having it's 2nd rebuild!1st rebuild was done by dealer.Owner must have been pissed at the dealer.

Anyway, this issue will set me back 1500 bucks (about USD800).

Looks like he is doing a complete rebuild.I wonder if that was necessary at all, but figure that the cost of labour would more or less be the same if it wasn't a complete rebuild.

The cost of the extra parts/labour required for a complete rebuild is probably worth that extra peace of mind...

After all, you get what you pay for...
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2003, 12:31 AM
blackmercedes's Avatar
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: St. Albert, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,492
306,000 kilometers is decent life from the tranny. Don't be too hard on yourself for that.
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1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K

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  #8  
Old 07-08-2003, 12:37 AM
azhari
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blackmercedes

Why? Why? Why? I ask myself...

Should I have driven less in Sport mode than I have?

Could I have avoided this by changing the tranny oil/filter every 5000km?



A whole lot of should haves/could haves can't erase the fact that the tranny is screwed.

At 306,000km, I guess it could have happened yesterday, today or tomorrow...

Thanks for the morale booster, dude.
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  #9  
Old 07-08-2003, 03:25 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,097
azhari

are you going to run synthetic ATF from now on?

Anyone know the difference in trans life with syn vs dino ATF?

Haasman
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  #10  
Old 07-08-2003, 03:39 AM
azhari
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Haasman

My current gearbox had synthetic ATF in it at the time it failed, so I guess I can't do much worse by sticking to it.

Btw, have only used dino oil on my 1st car which was a '79 Alfa Romeo Sprint.

Have pretty much stuck to synthetic after that car.

Cheers.
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  #11  
Old 07-08-2003, 10:55 PM
azhari
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Well, I have my car back.

Shifts are smooth (of course) and shift points are OK.

Shifting on the gearshift produces not even the slightest jerk (maybe just a little bit, but almost unnoticeable).

Overall, I would say it's a good job.

Thanks & Cheers, y'all.
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  #12  
Old 07-09-2003, 12:03 AM
haasman's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,097
Ah, nothing better than on the road again!

Enjoy your drive,

Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
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  #13  
Old 07-09-2003, 12:56 AM
azhari
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Yeah.

Now, for a problem I had just b4 the tranny failed.

The car seemed to run OK when cold, very rich when warm.

Mileage went down from 420+km per tank to 260+km per tank!

When warm, the car hesitates off the line (crawls for 10 - 15m at full throttle before taking off like a slingshot) and leaves a trail of black smoke in it's wake.

My car doesn't have a cat and therefore, no O2 sensor.

I asked my indie to check out this problem when I had the tranny rebuilt.

When he had finished, I test drove the car and it seemed OK.

No hesitation when warm and no black smoke.I will have to check the fuel mileage when I finish this tank to know if it has improved.

When I asked him what he had done, he simply said "I adjusted the mixture as best as I could".And at no charge.Hmm.....

However, he made a comment that my fuel distributor was going bad, causing the symptoms I faced (doesn't seem like it to me).

Anyway, I paid him th 1500 bucks and I left.

Only then I realise that I had been driving in S mode.When I shifted back to E, there was still hesitation off the line but very, very mild.

So it looks to me that the indie has probably masked the real problem by adjusting the mixture manually (in the tower).

I would like to use my digital MM to take current readings from the EHA to verify this and I don't have the MB harness.

Can I connect the MM in series with any one of the two connections on the EHA and read off the current value?

Does it make any difference which of the two connections I use and also in which direction of current flow should I be measuring (red or black lead on EHA side)?

Thanks in advance.

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  #14  
Old 07-09-2003, 01:26 AM
azhari
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Haasman

If I get 20ma key-on engine-off, then I am on the right track?
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  #15  
Old 07-09-2003, 01:35 AM
azhari
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Just came off the phone with the indie rgd the "running rich" problem.

Said he found my car's CO at 7% and adjusted it down to 1% (idling).

However, at acceleration, he says the CO level may rise and drop upon decel(???).
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