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Old 09-19-2003, 10:20 PM
glenmore's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 963

50 minutes! Wow!

While still fresh, could you quickly recap the procedure for us and do any special tools make it go easier/faster?


1991 300CE
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:14 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,512
Oh geez, I'm not really very good at writing up procedures and such. I'll toss out a few tips and leave it at that.

Nothing exotic in the way of tools is required. I mostly used a 1/4 inch drive rachet with a selection six point sockets. The smaller rachet is easier to work with in tight spaces.

I made my own fan clutch holder from a length of 1/4 inch steel rod I bought a Lowe's for about $1.50. I used an plain old 8mm allen key for the fan bolt.

The general procedure is this: 1) Drain radiator 2) Remove fan shroud 3) Remove fan & fan clutch 4) Untension serpentine belt and remove 5) Remove water pump and power steering pulleys 6) Remove belt tensioner assembly 7) Move power steering pump aside (it shares mounting with the tensioner. There are two bolts accessed from the back.) 8) Remove radiator hoses - this could/should be done earlier to get them out of the way. 9) Remove the hard metal pipe which attaches to the thermostat housing - not sure what this is even called. There is a 5mm allen head bolt which secures it to the head of the engine. This bolt need only be loosened, not removed, and the pipe can be slid to the left and moved out of the way. 10) Remove four water pump bolts. All are 6mm allen head. For the upper front I used a 6mm allen key. The remaining three can be accessed using an allen head socket, a swivel joint, and a generously sized extension. Be sure you are getting the water pump bolts on the botton - there are some identical 6mm bolts just below, and you can accidentally remove them instead. Then you wonder why the water pump won't come off!

That's my thoughts on the matter. If you have any specific questions, just ask.

- JimY
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Old 09-20-2003, 06:24 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Monrovia, CA
Posts: 490
That's a great quick overview of the job. The only thing I would add is to loosen the bolts for the water pump and power steering pulleys before releasing the tension on the belt.

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Old 09-21-2003, 02:01 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 326
And if you're really good you can do the whole job in about an hour without moving the power steering pump!
Scott Diener
89 300E
93 300E
92 Volvo 740 Wagon aka "Mutt mover"
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Old 09-23-2003, 12:48 AM
Meza's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: SC
Posts: 148
It happened to me on my 93 190e 2.6. I had to do it 3 times before I got it to seal. The surfaces have to be very clean and you must tighten the bolts evenly and really snug to get them to seal the O-ring in place. No grease is needed.
1993 190E 2.6
Advanced Diesel Systems Test and Research Engineer
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Old 09-23-2003, 01:48 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Just did the 300TE tonight. I wish it was only 50 minutes!

I did replace the visco clutch (old one not working well and VERY oily) and the tensioner. The old tensioner was cracked pretty badly.

Only trouble I had was loosing one PS pulley bolt (will look tomorrow when it's light) and the shock pushed the tensioner so far down I thought I'd done something wrong since I couldn't get the belt back on.

Cured the noise and the leak. Pure pain getting that stinking engine full of water! Nearly overheated it before I got it full.

Nice way to spend 6 hours on a Monday.

1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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