Remote actuator
 

I illustrate two installations of the Omega keyless on my site. The Early one addresses the installation of an inexpensive remote actuator in the driver's door and should work with the 380SL which, if memory serves, uses a vacuum chamber to power the locks. The only snag with that approach is that the vacuum supply is finite and generally will not allow more than two or three lock/unlock cycles before you run out of vacuum. Restarting the engine 'recharges' the vacuum supply.

By contrast the early and late W126 cars use an electrical vacuum pump (in the trunk, RHS) which will continue to work as long as your battery can supply power, regardless of whether the engine is on or not. The Later cars (see my site) include vacuum to the driver's door which obviates the need for a remote actuator at that location - just start the pump to lock everything. By contrast, the earlier cars have no vacuum to the driver's door so you have to simulate the action of the mechanical key by installing an actuator.

Even if your 380SL does not use a vac pump, the remote actuator, by simulating key action, should do the trick.

wjm:

"What system did you install? Does the system have remote start capabilities? Would you ever attempt installing remote start?"


http://www.commandocaralarms.com/

Didn't notice my model there just now, but I didn't search too hard. Plenty of good deals, tho, and for lots of installation info, other than good leads from this forum:

http://www.the12volt.com

(which seems to be down at the moment)

Steve

Cool.

They guy at Alarmtek (http://www.startbyremote.com ... he seems to have a bunch of domain names) recomended a Commando to me as well. One that has 2 way paging. Again, he said that he'd work me through the entire install if I purchased directly from him... same price as the commando site.

I recently installed a full function alarm on my 95 C220. It took a while though to probe the wires. Some info on the wiring:

Door Pin wire : Brwn/Green on front passenger door. This controls both the front doors. Brwn/Pink on right rear controls both rear doors. (negative trigger for both)

I also found that I didn't need any relays nor diodes for the lights. Use the Gray/Red wire for your lights.

For the door locks, use the green and blue wires on your vacuum. Again, I didn't need any relays for this.

An installer wanted $ 300 for the installation so I opted DIY. I could have bought 3 alarm systems for that price.:)

The need for relays will also depend on the system you buy. If some of the systems trigger wires have negetive (-) outputs and the specific wire you need to tap into is positive (+) then a relay is required to convert.

Consequently, some systems will tell you not to connect wires from system directly to vehicle wire without a relay because the current draw would be to great on the system.

"I also found that I didn't need any relays nor diodes for the lights. Use the Gray/Red wire for your lights.

For the door locks, use the green and blue wires on your vacuum. Again, I didn't need any relays for this."

For the 190E, there appeared to be no common parking light wire - just separate circuits. As for the pump trigger, the danger of not using relays is if someone triggers that line with a door lock WHILE the KE unit is toggling it - you will likely blow out the unit, possibly a car fuse as well. The relays disable the trigger line while the KE unit is using it.

Steve

Your message kinda scared me a bit. I found an old keyless entry unit near my trunk vac. I took the unit out and simply tapped my alarm door lock/unlock trigger to the old keyless entry harness. It works good except that the dash switch doesn't work if the car is started.

Do you think I need to put relays? If so, how do I do it?

Checkout:

http://www.commandocaralarms.com/vacuumdoorlocks.asp

Steve

To Tom Q, tdhenning and other's who have keyless entry installed in vehicles that came with convenience feature.

Do you have any problems with the rollup feature or the built in one-touch window roll-down feature? Do the windows roll up when you lock the car with keyless? Does the 1 touch work with the doors open? Are there ever any cases where it does not work?

What happens when you lock the vehicle, then unlock it again (let's say) within 5 seconds? Does the alarm ever set off?

Willy

I don't have the 1 touch switch for all the windows but they roll up and down like crazy sometimes. My door lock/unlock switch in the panel though doesn't work when the car is started.

My alarm doesn't go off when it is engaged/disengaged within 5 secs but it go to valet mode sometimes.

I find this so mind boggling:confused:

Thanks.

I think what I'll do is start a new thread on this issue shortly... that is, Keyless Entry with Convenience Feature.

sounds good. Newbies like me would surely benefit from that

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Tom Q

I also found that I didn't need any relays nor diodes for the lights. Use the Gray/Red wire for your lights.

For the door locks, use the green and blue wires on your vacuum. Again, I didn't need any relays for this.

Hi Tom, Did you wire the lights (flash) to the Gray/Red wire from the main head light switch?

Also, does the factory alarm work when you lock the car with the remote? You will have to test this, with the rear window open, lock the car with the remote, then reach in and unlock the door using the button inside for that door, open the door, does the alarm sound?

I just installed a remote entry which works fine but won't arm the factory alarm.

Suggestions?
Acky

just do a search here on (thomaspin) he did it in great detail plus he touches on old and new types. around 1987.

he also now has a website. go there and subscribe one job and the fee will be covered.

Alarm problem solved.

You can NOT install a remote entry unit in all W124 models as shown elsewhere in this forum.

Only if your car has exactly the same wiring configurations should that method be used, and even then you must test the factory alarm to ensure that it works properly with the remote as well as the key.

When installing the remote control module, you MUST cut the lock/unlock wire going to the vacuum pump that also signals the arm/disarm wire going to the anti theft alarm control unit to arm and disarm, connect the wiring in series at the cut wire.

If you use the wrong wire, remote locking and unlocking will have no affect on the alarm. For example if you lock the car using the key, or the passenger door lock button, then later unlock the car using the remote, the alarm will be activated and you can only stop it by using the key to unlock/disarm.

Also if you lock the car using the remote, if it’s not properly wired, the alarm system will not arm, so it’s useless.

I shudder at the thought of how many W124 models (and others) are out there with botched alarm systems for this and other reasons.

I will post the test procedure for a w124 system

Acky