Shimes inside of the MB electromagnetic clutch ?
 

Do any of you have any knowledge of these shimes and how I can go about removing one or two ? My magneticclutch on my m62 eaton blower seems to be slipping because it jumped from 10psi down to 6-7psi within these past couple months and from what I am told it is these shimes. Before i start taking this clutch apart I just want to know what they are...

Thank you

I just found out what a shim was after some searching, here is a shim on a volvo air compresor, it seems to be just a small little washer... I still dont get how removing these on our blower clutch can add more friction. Are our blower clutches pretty easilly removable ?

http://www.saab9000.com/procedures/v.../acclutch5.jpg

Just going by memory-no guarantee, as if there ever is:
I think there is just a nut in the center of the front of the clutch, this is removed and the part retained by the nut is pulled of the hub. The shims are located on the shaft the nut screws on to.
One exception, and I had a question like this on one of my Mercedes TRP tests, and got it wrong: The shims are added to close up the gap, and removed to make it larger. Sounds strange, but I believe this is true. Easy enought to find out I guess, if you have some feeler gauges, check it out.

Gilly

Thanx for the help, after reading about the shims on the a/c compressors on fords and volvo's in some other tech boards, they all say that adding more closes the gap and removing them opens the gap, which seems logical... I went and checked and it does look like the clutch just yanks off the shaft after removing that nut, imgoing to give this a try next weekend...

Are these special shimes ? I would like to go buy a couple more and possibly try to add one or to and then try taking some away to see what happends...

Yes, I wouldn't mess around with using something that doesn't belong in there, order the correct shims.
That's "shim" by the way, not shime. Ryhmes with "Tim". Plural is shims.
You could take it apart and try removing the shims that are there to see if it increases or decreases the gap. Logical thinking is that it would close up the gap bt removing, but I'm not too sure if this is the case. I'd try it to see, maybe you won't need to order the shims.

Gilly

Okie, my buddy, a former MB tech, states that removing the shimes actualy narrows the gap. I have 4 shims inside of mine, im going to be removing one of them a week from tommorow to see what happends. Im crossing my fingers for more boost, atleast back up to 10psi :D I'll let you guys know how it goes.

bad news, i took the m62 out, pulled the clutch apart, inspected it to find out that the outer clutch disk is warped, so im guessing that the clutch is sliping. So i sanded it down a little, took the two smaller shims out, left the bigger one in, put it back together, slaped it back on, and same thing. Soo, that sux. But the good news is that my buddy knows a fella that is making me a smaller direct drive pully. Im having it made in a week or so and expect 12-15psi out of it, instead of this lousy 6-7psi this warped clutch is giving me and the 9psi it was giving me when it actually worked. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

oh yea, FYI, by taking the shims out it did close the gap up.

I doubt the clutch would be the problem as the slipping necessary for a 30% power decrease would burn the thing up in short order. Least it would on an AC. I'm talking ten minutes or less.

reallyyy...... :confused: hrmm...

I forgot to mention this too, when i took a look inside the case, it looks like I have a leak of the fluid/lubrication. Any idea how to fix this ? could this be my problem ? If its not the clutch, what could it be ?

Thanx for the help